Counting the trend headdresses in Tang Dynasty
Be chosen as a performance girl
In the stills, Wu Ruyi first entered the palace, full of childlike interest, dressed in a pink gauze skirt, smart and graceful.
Hairstyle: double-ring bun
This bun divides the hair into two parts, and each side of the head is coiled into a drooping ring. It was the most popular in the prosperous Tang Dynasty. Generally, unmarried women or maids, maids and child servants comb this bun. It can be seen that Ye Fan's modeling in the play is very consistent with the characteristics of the literati in the Tang Dynasty.
Headdress: golden hairpin
In the Tang Dynasty, it became popular to make jewelry with gold and silver. In the stills, Wu Ruyi wears a carved gold hairpin and is called Zanhua. Each pair of gold and silver hair clips is in duplicate, with the same structure but opposite patterns, and can be inserted symmetrically left and right. This kind of gold and silver hairpin is most commonly engraved with patterns.
Gold-plated gold and silver hair clips in Tang Dynasty
Name? Mei Niang? Jin Cai feng ren
Judging from the stills and the bun, Ruyi has just been named a gifted scholar by Taizong. Mei Niang? When, become the target of harem women. Although there are not many pearls and jadeites, there are gorgeous figures.
Hairstyle: Shuang Huan Wang xian fa Ji
This bun divides the hair into two strands, tied in a circle with black wool or black belt, and towering above the head. Because of the feeling of pursuit and longing, it is called double-ring fairy bun, which prevailed in the prosperous Tang Dynasty.
Headdress: A bun decorated with flowers, temples and lips.
Wu Cairen wears a bun decorated with flowers and hairpins. The bun decorated with flowers is made of gold and kingfisher feathers. There were few Cui Cui in the Tang Dynasty, mainly gold, which was nailed to the bun. In Qing Dynasty, it was more common in Cui Cui headdress and was widely used. And inserted in the hair, a string of beads hanging on the sideburns is called sideburns and lips. The swaying beads make Wu Cairen beautiful and moving, and people can't put it down.
Huamei Wu Zhaoyi
Wu Meiniang's elegant manners were brought back from Ganye Temple by Tang Gaozong and Li Zhi. At this time, she was blocked by Zhao Yi because of the palace fight? Blackening? Clothing has changed from immature and smart to elegant and charming.
Hairstyle: Pan Huanji
It means that the hair is gathered at the top, then rolled up, and then wrapped around the top of the head, and the top is flat. The comb is inserted in front of the bun, and the bun is decorated with gold hairpin and step shake, which makes Wu dignified and elegant and conscientious. The second hairstyle is a double-ring fairy bun or a scary bun.
Headdress:
Combs became popular in the prosperous Tang Dynasty. Put some combs in the bun. More exquisite combs are made of gold, silver, rhinoceros, jade, teeth and other materials, exposing the half-moon comb back, which plays a very good decorative role.
Hair accessories also include stepping, hairpin, cuiqiao and so on. Walking is a kind of hairpin, and the general forms are mostly phoenix and butterfly. , or decorated with tassels or beads. When women walk, gold ornaments will swing and be lifelike, so they are very popular in the Tang Dynasty.
Empress Wu Meiniang
Wu Meiniang finally sat on the throne of the queen, sitting in the same row with the emperor Li Zhi, surrounded by luxuries and jewels, and the domineering posture of the queen remained motionless. But in the second picture, she is a little more lonely and sad.
Hairstyle: Uygur vertebral bun
Headdress: The headdress has obviously changed from before, and the most are golden headdress and red coral headdress. The temples and lips are covered with gold-plated headdresses that hang down to the ears, and the bun is dotted with two real flowers, as well as golden hairpins, jade ornaments, pearls and gems, scratching heads and so on.
Old age: high bun
Refers to the hair towering above the head, which is convenient for wearing ornaments such as dragon crowns.
Headdress: The headdress is carved with pearls and jewels, and the headdress is decorated with golden dragons and gold hairpin. The color of jewelry is not as bright as youth, but more calm and solemn. Wu Zetian in the stills looks dignified, and her eyes are vicissitudes and sad. The only magnificent life of the female emperor in history is written on this weather-beaten face.
Fashion colors of Tang Dynasty costumes
The Tang Dynasty was a lively and extroverted era, with strong national strength and full confidence. On the basis of the traditional culture of the Han nationality, we opened our minds and absorbed a large number of foreign cultures, thus forming a colorful Tang civilization, so there are various popular costumes.
There are two kinds of uniforms for Zhou emperors. Duan Xuan is an ordinary grain uniform, and deep clothes are the real uniform. Deep clothes are worn from the emperor to the common people regardless of class. The deep clothes of the Zhou Dynasty were white, and so was the Tang Dynasty. White is the most common color, especially for men.
White:
(Sui Shu. Tan Sizhi) contains: "Fortunately, six years of imperial edict, petty officials to green, Shu Ren to white, real estate developers to soap. According to this rule, ordinary people in the Tang and Five Dynasties wore white robes. There are many such examples in contemporary poetry, such as: Han Yu's "Competing for God": "White cloth gown, purple scarf, and he is a motionless idle person. Unexpectedly (800 words for my nephew): "Brown was released at the beginning of yesterday afternoon and went to Pengqiu with his life. Green robe, spring grass color, white mi abandoned as resentment. "The above two poems, obviously, when I am not an official, I wear a white robe.
Another Tang Dynasty novel (Cherry Tsing Yi) tells that a scholar went to an elegant house and listened to a monk's sermon. He was tired, fell asleep, and dreamed that he met a noble man. When he woke up, he saw cypress wood and the same clothes. "You can make a proof. The imperial examination system began to flourish in the Tang Dynasty, and scholars were especially valued by people. Most of the celebrities in the Tang Dynasty were born in Jinshi. Although these scholars who didn't get the official exam still wear white shirts, they are likely to make a fortune soon. Therefore, Jinshi and his scholars are honored as "white ministers" or "first-class white shirts". Ordinary officials usually wear white robes or at banquets. For example, people in the Tang Dynasty painted a picture of riding a horse, in which the characters, or riding horses for leisure, also wore white robes.
Red, purple:
Someone did a chromatographic analysis. Silk unearthed in Turpan alone has more than 20 colors, among which red is water red, silver red, scarlet, crimson and purplish red.
Yellow is goose yellow, chrysanthemum yellow, apricot yellow, khaki yellow, golden yellow and brown.
Cyan includes sky blue, egg blue, red blue and navy blue.
Blue is emerald blue and sapphire blue.
Green is lake green, bean green, leaf green, dark green and fruit green.
The red brocade lace found in a tomb in the second year of Yongchun was woven with fruit green, dark green, yellow, brown and white silk threads, and decorated with white beaded yellow halo silk. The splendor of women's costumes in the Tang Dynasty is fully reflected in many paintings. For example, The Picture of Ladies in the Tang Dynasty, The Picture of Zhang Xuan in the Tang Dynasty, Li's The Picture of Zhang Xuan as a Taoist, and The Picture of a Lady with Fragrance in Laoting in Dunhuang Murals can all prove the diversity of women's clothing in this era. In the above paintings, most aristocratic women wear red clothes, such as Ms. Guo in Two on the Road, who hangs thin sleeves, wears white silk on her shoulders and wears a red dress with golden flowers. Ladies-in-waiting and waiters are mostly dark or light-colored, but they are also bright red, because in this era, "customs are extravagant and do not follow the rules, and it is satisfactory to continue the splendid front." From ladies-in-waiting to horses, there is no difference between high and low. 」
No matter at all times and in all countries, the people who are most sensitive to fashion clothes are rich women, singers and courtesans, so we can know the color of fashion clothes at that time from the clothes worn by these women. Red and purple are the most popular clothes for women in this period. You can see a lot from Tang poetry:
"You know I have a husband. You gave me a pair of pearls, which made you concerned and tied to the red roller. 」
"Zhu Fu Fangfei, the original smoke is shallow. 」
"Full moon, Zhu lazy smoked, jade account gives birth to spring, spend some pomegranate skirt. 」
"* * * prostitutes everywhere, prostitutes purple skirt all over the world.
"Purple pheasant, yellow sideburns. 」
"Eyebrows deceives willow leaves, and skirts envy pomegranate flowers. 」
The above poems, except the first one, are all about prostitutes' clothes.
In the novels of the Tang Dynasty (Biography of Huo Xiaoyu), famous prostitutes in Chang 'an were dressed as "pomegranate skirt, purple shirt crotch, red and green purse". Red and purple are gorgeous and attractive colors, which are loved by women who pay attention to clothes. There is also a luxury fashion, especially in wealthy families.
(Uncle Tang. "Princess Anle ordered Fang to put on two woolen dresses with hundreds of birds, regarding them as one for the face, one for the color side, one for the color sun, and one for the color shadow. Everything in the color is birds, so she gave one to Hou Wei. Self-made fur skirts are rich, and rivers and mountains are rare and exotic. " Although this colorful dress has exhausted the rare birds and animals in Jiangling and only a few nobles can afford it, it is popular to make pleated skirts with two-color silk. When this skirt moves, it forms the effect of spots.
Yan's "Walking Map", a maid-in-waiting with a fan on her back, is dressed in red and white. A "dancer in red" in the mural of "Tomb of the Lost Festival" in Tang Dynasty unearthed in Xi 'an is also this pleated skirt.
Black, dark green, deep purple, dark brown:
The clothing system stipulates that "the butcher uses soap", which means that butchers and businessmen have the lowest social class, and the government stipulates that only black soap clothes can be worn.
We look at the murals in Dunhuang Mogao Grottoes, which are quite realistic. J in Jingbian, Vimalakīrti depicts two people standing at the door of a restaurant, and some people are sitting in the restaurant. It seems that these people are businessmen, and their clothes smell of soap when they rest and drink on the road.
In the late Tang Dynasty, there were many diseases. Scholars used to wear bright white robes. Low-key black is popular in the last days, and I like to wear purple, green and deep purple, and the weather is not sunny. By the time of the rebellion in the late Tang Dynasty, both scholars and ordinary people were dressed in soap-colored clothes.
In terms of the popular color of women's clothing, after the middle Tang Dynasty, women's clothing was almost a kind of aesthetic feeling in the last days. In a letter to Bai Juyi, Yuan Zhen said: "In modern times, women's eyes are dim, their hair is trimmed, and the width and color of their clothes are particularly dazzling. Bai Juyi's "Contemporary Makeup" poem: "Contemporary fashion is far and near, cheeks are not painted with ink or powder, lips are black as mud, eyebrows are painted in a low figure, black and white are out of shape, and makeup seems to cry. It's really "black and white." Scholars are popular in black, and women like to dress up miserable. Like scholars, their clothes are mostly black, dark green and dark brown. From the late Tang Dynasty to the Northern Song Dynasty, we can see the popularity of this color. The rise and fall of the national luck in the Tang Dynasty was obvious in the color of clothing.
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