Someone once described these ten eyebrows in the Ming Dynasty like this: "A mandarin duck eyebrow, also known as the eight-character eyebrow; Second, Xiao, also known as Yuan; Wuyue eyebrow in March; Four peaks and three eyebrows; Five, hanging beads hanging eyebrow; June eyebrow, also known as moon eyebrow; Seven eyebrows; Eight-character eyebrows; Nine yue brushed the cloud eyebrow, also known as the horizontal smoke eyebrow; Ten are dizzy. " These ten eyebrows are the most famous.
And there are several kinds of eyebrow platforms. The earliest material of ancient thrush was Dai. "Shi Ming" said: "Dai, Dai also. Destroy the eyebrows and replace them with this painting. " In other words, when we ancient people wanted to thrush, we would first remove our eyebrows and then thrush.
But what is Dai? In ancient China, it was recorded that "dyeing bluestone is a point to wear." So Dai is a kind of ore, which can be called bluestone or stone Dai. Many friends must be very curious, saying that stones, how to use them to thrush? Actually, it's easy to explain This kind of stone is a bit like graphite. In his book Yuan Tan, Yang Sheng 'an said: "Shan Hai Jing is a mountain with a woman's bed, and its shade is full of rocks." Textual research helps God:' Wang De went to the mountain and Mo Dan went out.' (Note: Dan is not only a colorful name, but also a blue, white and yellow Yun Dan. )' Stone Nie' and' Mo Dan' are today's' graphite', a thrush stone. The ancient books used lacquer books, the middle ages used graphite, and later generations used tobacco ink. "So it can be seen that our ancestors discovered this mineral very early, but the ancients didn't call it that, but called it" Shi Nie ",which means" Nie "(dye) and also called" Mo Dan ". By the way, all powdery pigments in ancient times were called "Dan", not red, so black pigments were also called "Mo Dan". In a word, it is a product of mountains, a mineral. Because of its shallow quality, it can be used for thrush, so it has another name of "thrush stone" This is the earliest natural ink, which is used by men to write and women to thrush.
When in use, Shi Dai should be put on a special inkstone and ground into powder, and then mixed with water to be applied to eyebrows. Of course, the times were progressing, and later, after processing, black blocks were used and drugs were mixed directly with water.
What color is Diane? From the naming of "bluestone", we can think that Dai is "green". However, this youth is different, and the ancients had different understandings of youth. "Cyan" is a primary color, including blue, cyan, green, emerald and other tones. At any time, this color is called dark black and metacolor. For example, the sky was called' Tian Xuan' and the ocean was called' Xuanwei'. Then the color you wear is ambiguous. Sometimes it's green, sometimes it's dark green, dark black, etc ... and then it's changed to "heavy eyebrows" and "heavy eyebrows"
Then, depending on the depth of concentration, the color of black is also different. Very dark black is almost the same as light black, which can be imagined as "dark green" between black and green.
Green contains cyan (blue) and yellow. Therefore, when the color is dark, it is close to the black "Xuan" color; When the color is lighter, it is blue "pale" color; A little lighter is the "green" color of trees in winter and spring and summer. To sum up, in a word, when cyan controls yellow, the eyebrows will be dark and black; On the contrary, when yellow controls cyan, it will become green and emerald. All colors are determined according to the depth, so the eyebrow color of the ancients can also be chosen, hehe.
Therefore, Dai girls have names such as Mo Mei, Xuan Mei, Qing Dai Mei, Qing Mei and Cui Mei.
In Five Days of Visiting a Prostitute at the beginning of ten thousand, "Mei Dai wins the color of day lily, red skirt envies pomegranate flowers", Bai Juyi's "Shang Yang Bai Mao Man" and "Qingdai Fine Eyebrows, Tianbao Last Makeup" show that the ancients respected Mei Dai very highly at that time, so it can be said that all people wore eyebrows of different shapes and colors.
Huangmei
According to records, the Wei and Jin Dynasties were influenced by foreign cultures due to years of war and the spread of Buddhism. In eyebrow makeup, it broke the stereotype of black dress of green moth in the past and unexpectedly created a new style of "yellow ink makeup".
Here, you may think that many decorations are yellow, because Indian customs have spread to China through the Western Regions. Han people began to imitate it, and at first it was only painted on the forehead, and later it was called "yellow forehead". Yu Xin wrote in a poem: "The eyebrows are thick and straight, and the forehead is light and yellow." It can be seen that it was a conservative trial stage at first, and it was directly used to thrush in the later stage. There is a record in Sui Shu: "In the first year of the Northern Zhou Dynasty, courtiers were not allowed to bring ribbons, and women were inked with yellow eyebrows."
Everyone must be curious about what raw material this yellow eyebrow is. In fact, it is a mineral similar to stone yellow. Some people use pine pollen as thrush. However, no matter how thick the makeup of the ancients was, it was absolutely light in modern times. Now it's called heavy makeup, which has lost its original natural beauty, hehe.
Luozidai
We also saw this in Zanhuan Biography, and it is a rare thing with good quality, and it is also the most famous name in past dynasties. "Screw Dai" is also called "screw Dai", "screw Dai" and "screw". Also known as painting "eyebrow stone". This is a synthetic thrush pigment, which is chemically treated with indigo and limewater lamp. It is black and looks like ink. When in use, it can be directly dipped in water without grinding. According to legend, it comes from Persia. The sixteenth volume of Compendium of Materia Medica records: "Indigo, also known as indigo flower and clam powder. . . It is also a foreign indigo flower, but there is no indigo flower, so China indigo flower can also be used. "
It is precisely because of this that mother-of-pearl wear is hard to find, so most nobles still choose inferior "bronze wear".
Green finch headband
In addition to what we mentioned above, there is also "green finch head", which is a dark gray thrush pigment, and the details are also less recorded. So unfortunately.
Thrush ink
Thrush ink is widely used. Time (graphite) is a natural ink in China, before the invention of cigarette ink. As we said before, men write and women thrush. During the Northern Zhou Dynasty, artificial ink began to appear. Artificial ink was invented after paper and pen. In the Han dynasty, graphite ink was still used in painting. It was not until the Wei and Jin Dynasties that people began to use lacquer smoke and pine coal to make ink, which was called "ink pill". After the Tang Dynasty, technology was very advanced and popular.
The method of making this thrush ink is recorded in detail in the "Shilin Guangji". Because it is specially used for the mirror stage, people gave it a very fragrant name, called "Thrushcross Fragrance Collection Circle". Production method: "Use genuine sesame oil lamp, rub it tightly with more wicks, put the oil lamp in water, cover it with a small device to condense the smoke, and sweep it down when necessary." Soak musk deer in less oil three days in advance, pour it into the smoke and mix well. It can be darker than paint. A method of making snuff by rotating and shearing sesame oil is particularly preferred. "
In terms of color, artificial products are not as bright as natural stones, and the depth is determined by people. "Thrushcross Fragrance Circle" can only draw black eyebrows, not green eyebrows and green eyebrows. Therefore, since the Song Dynasty, the eyebrow color was mainly black, and the green eyebrow and green eyebrow were gradually rare, which was directly related to the raw materials of thrush at that time.
Cheap type
Many people may have done this when they were young, hehe, but it's just a match lit, burned black, extinguished and thrush. The effect seems good, extremely simple. This was popular in the Republic of China. The advantage is that it is cheap, but the disadvantage is that it needs makeup and it is not lasting.
There are also some exquisite ones, who will take a cup, burn some matches, burn matches in the cup, collect bituminous coal, and brush their eyebrows the next day.
The other is to use old and tough willow branches, so that there are some green marks in the black, which is much better than matching thrush. However, it is only useful to cut the burned part into the shape of eyebrow pencil.
The last one is to blindly simmer the medicinal material "monkey ginger" into powder, and then stroke the eyebrows with an eyebrow brush.