Shang dynasty costumes can be roughly divided into three types.
1. Simple clothes worn by slaves.
Usually round neck, connected from top to bottom, tied with rope in the middle, ankle-long, without ornaments on the head.
2, civilians or small slave owners.
Their clothes are more exquisite, usually on clothes and under skirts. They are knee-length, but the back hem reaches the feet and the waist is tied. Most of them have no decorative patterns.
3. Royal nobility.
The clothes are gorgeous, and the upper and lower skirts of the coat are beautifully decorated, embroidered or painted. The waist is also tied with a ribbon, and the middle part below the belt is decorated with an axe with a narrow top and a wide bottom.
The raw materials of clothes are mainly flax, silk and leather. Linen can be worn by the rich and the poor, but it is thick and thin. Silk and leather are mainly used by slave owners and nobles. Like bronzes, the embroidery patterns on silk clothes are mostly Yun Leiwen.
Men's hair accessories in Shang Dynasty were mainly braided. Some of them tie their hair on their heads, some braid their hair on the left and right sides and hang it over their shoulders, and some tie their hair on their heads. Women's hair accessories in Shang Dynasty were basically the same as men's, mainly braided hair, but a few of them curled their hair and hung over their shoulders. There are also towel hats. In Shang dynasty, the form of towel hat was relatively simple, mostly hat hoop. Most hair bands are made of animal bones and jade, and headbands are made of them.
The costumes of the Zhou Dynasty are roughly the same as those of the Shang Dynasty, but they are looser than those of the Shang Dynasty, and the length is knee-length. Besides small sleeves, there are big sleeves. Tie the belt in a bow. The styles of towel hats are also very rich. In addition to the hat hoop, there are flat, pointed, crescent-shaped, protruding in the middle and rolled up on both sides. Generally, the flat ones are worn by ordinary people, while the high ones are worn by nobles.
Note: People from all walks of life in Shang Dynasty wore narrow sleeves.
Second, the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period
During the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period, deep clothes and Hu clothes were popular in the upper class.
1, deep clothes
The deep robe, which is deeply loved by nobles, is a traditional aristocratic uniform since the Western Zhou Dynasty, but civilians think that brown short dresses are usually worn. Second, there is no difference between male and female styles, and they can all be worn. But it can be divided into two types: one is the wide type in the Central Plains. The "wide strap" is comfortable to wear, long without mopping the floor, with no slit at the hem, elbow-piercing, long sleeves and a large broadband at the waist, which is what the nobles in the Central Plains like to wear when they are having fun. The other is self-cultivation, which is the most popular "even hem" in Chu, compared with the north.
2. Khufu
Khufu is easy to ride and shoot, and soldiers of all countries wear it. Khufu gradually became a military uniform during the Warring States Period. It is characterized by short clothes, shorts, hooks, short boots and flat leather. Khufu was originally a common uniform of nomadic people in the north. Khufu's coat was worn by laborers, soldiers and children in the Shang and Zhou Dynasties, reaching to the knees. There should be a hook on Khufu's waist, which is different from the belt in the Central Plains. Pants replaced robes and boots replaced shoes.
Hook, called "Stone Wall" and "Xianbei" in ancient times, is the costume decoration of nomadic people in the north. The hook is small and big, with the image of imitating sticks, bamboo joints and pipa. Raw materials include jade, iron and copper. It is inlaid with precious stones, colored glasses or gold and silver.
Third, the Qin and Han Dynasties
In the Han dynasty, the basic first clothes for men were towels. There are mainly two kinds of towels: medium towels and Mir towels, but the specific styles and colors vary according to people's identity, status, occupation and age. For example, the colors of the towels of emperors and officials at all levels are different, and the towels of civil servants and military attaché s are also different. Civil mainly includes
Only officials can use crowns and hats, usually on towels. The crown caps mainly include crown, long crown, appearance crown, leather crown, Jue crown, Tian Tongguan, Yuanyou crown, Gaoshan crown, Jinxian crown, Faguan, Wuguan, Jianhua crown, Fangshan crown and scholar crown, but they are not crowns, but.
Appearance crown and skin crown are used for sacrificial ceremonies in suburban communities respectively; The crown of Tian Tong is a royal costume; Traveling far is selfless service; Jinxianguan is a suit of Confucianism; But it is not the clothes of palace officials and servants, the crown of enemies is the clothes of guards, and the crowns of knights and Jianhua are the sacrificial clothes of dancers.
Robe clothes are common clothes for ordinary people in Han Dynasty. There are two main styles: one is straight robe; A winding robe after the Warring States Period. It has no buttons, and the skirt twists back from the armpit. It has a belt around its waist. This dress is very wide and has big sleeves. The collar and sleeves have a smooth edge at the beginning. Straight robes were popular in the late Western Han Dynasty. These two styles are common to both men and women.
In the Han Dynasty, businessmen were not allowed to wear splendid fabrics, but only linen fabrics.
There is no strict difference between the styles of men's and women's shoes in Han Dynasty. Men are mostly square heads, and women are mostly round heads, but they are universal. In daily life, nobles wear silk shoes, but they don't follow their own clothes. Because of the cold weather in the north, they wear more leather boots, while the temperature in the south is high and humid, and there are many straw sandals.
Socks in the Han Dynasty are called horn socks. They are more than a foot high and have belts on them. They can be tied tightly to prevent them from falling off.
The jewelry of aristocratic women in Han Dynasty includes stepping, hairpin, ear, victory, victory and bow, which are graded according to the length of the bow. Because there are too many jewels on my head to bear the real hair, I use fake bun, which was called "big hand bun" in Han Dynasty.
Noble women often wear skirts. There are also hanging gowns, which are also banquet clothes. They are inclined robes, the upper part is wide and the lower part is narrow, hanging beside them as decoration.
Working women's clothes are usually simple, without jewelry, which is convenient for work. Often short-sleeved trousers. Generally, women's hair styles are mostly open-ended and unadorned. Hair is divided into parts, combed flat and hung back, while aristocratic women have a high bun.
Women in the Han Dynasty had facial makeup, except heavy makeup and light makeup. For example, in the Eastern Han Dynasty, General Liang Yi's wife Han Shou created a sad makeup, eight eyebrows and a thin figure with a broken ponytail. She bent down and grinned, which was called a sad makeup, contrary to the popular wide eyebrow and high bun.
Fourth, Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties
The costumes of the Three Kingdoms and the Western Jin Dynasty are basically the same as those of the Eastern Han Dynasty. However, since the Eastern Jin Dynasty, the pursuit of so-called romantic release has led to the development of bulky clothes in a broader direction.
Some headdresses wear scarves, some wear small crowns, and some wear big crowns in the late Southern Dynasties. Scarves were originally worn by ordinary people before the Han Dynasty, and some celebrities began to use them in the Wei and Jin Dynasties at the end of the Eastern Han Dynasty, so they became popular. The small crown is generally hollow and can be tied into a vertebral bun and fixed from the back with a hairpin, which was developed from the flat towel of the Han Dynasty.
In this period, women's clothing has developed from deep clothes in Han Dynasty to clothes separation, and clothes under clothes have become the mainstream. There were also short coats and long skirts in the Jin Dynasty. Some skirts show the waist, which is called "upper inspection and lower abundance" in history books.
In the north, after the 16th National Congress, Khufu became very popular. Its main features are tight-fitting, narrow sleeves and slit. Because they are very convenient to move, they are deeply loved by Han working people.
In addition to small crowns and towels, there are also felt hats commonly used in the north. When towels were developed in the Northern Zhou Dynasty, they were often made of three-foot soap silk, called "folding towels", which was actually the hoe in the future.
Five, sui and Tang dynasties costumes (58 1 ~ 907)
During the Sui and Tang Dynasties, China was unified by division, stable by war and prosperous in economy and culture. The development of clothing, whether it is material or style, presents an unprecedented brilliant scene. Colorful brocade is a kind of silk woven with various colors and patterns, which is often used as half-arm and collar clothing. Gong Jin, in particular, has the patterns of pheasant, fighting sheep, phoenix and swimming scales, with gorgeous chapter colors. Embroidery includes five-color embroidery and gold and silver thread embroidery. Printing and dyeing patterns can be divided into multicolor overprint dyeing and monochromatic dyeing. During the Sui and Tang Dynasties, the main characteristics of men's crown clothing were that the upper layer wore robes, the officials wore hoes, and the people wore short shirts. Until the Five Dynasties, there was little change. Officials in Tian Zi and Guanbai used colors to distinguish grades, and patterns to indicate official ranks. Women's clothing in Sui and Tang Dynasties was full of fashion flavor, which often developed from palace women's clothing to folk, and was imitated in succession, and was often influenced by northwest nationalities.
The most fashionable women's dress in Sui and Tang Dynasties was short skirt, that is, long skirt with short coat, and the waist of the skirt was tied with silk ribbon, almost reaching the armpit. Women in Sui and Tang Dynasties were well dressed. The "half-arm" handed down from the court has double-breasted pullovers, lapels or collarless styles. The sleeves are elbow-length and waist-length, and a small belt is tied as a chest. Because the neckline is very wide, the upper chest is exposed when wearing it. The half arm lasted for a long time, and then the man wore it. At that time, a long scarf was also popular, which was made of tulle and had flowers painted with silver flowers or gold and silver powder. One end is fixed on the chest strap of the half arm, then put on the shoulder and wrapped around the arm, so it is called silk. Women's hair accessories in Tang Dynasty are various, each with its own name. Women's shoes are generally flower shoes, mostly made of splendid fabrics, colored silks and leather. Tang people are good at integrating northwest minorities with foreign cultures such as Tianzhu and Persia. During the Tang Dynasty from Zhenguan to Kaiyuan, new Hu clothes were very popular.
Six, Song Liao Xia Jinyuan clothing (947 ~ 1368)
The Song Dynasty basically retained the style of Han costumes, while the costumes of Liao, Xixia, Jinyuan and other dynasties had the characteristics of Qidan, Tangut, Jurchen and Mongolian respectively. National costumes are once again exchanged and integrated. There are three kinds of costumes in Song Dynasty: official clothes, casual clothes and old clothes. In the Song Dynasty, Luo was the main fabric of official clothes. Due to the old system of the Five Dynasties, the government gave the pro-expensive ministers robes in seven different colors every year. The colors of official uniforms follow the Tang system, with purple being more than three, Zhu being more than five, green being more than seven and green being more than nine. The style of official uniforms is roughly similar to the long-sleeved official uniforms in the late Tang Dynasty, but the first clothes (crowns and hats, etc.). ) It is already a flat-winged black silk hat, named Straight Foot, which has been customized. The official clothes of the Song Dynasty followed the system of wearing fish in the Tang Dynasty. Officials who are qualified to wear purple and scarlet official uniforms must tie a "fish bag" around their waist, which contains fish made of gold, silver and copper to distinguish official products. "Curved collar in the square" is also a feature of the imperial costume, that is, the ornaments under the circle are placed on the items of the imperial costume. In addition to official clothes and uniforms, the daily casual clothes of officials in Song Dynasty are mainly small sleeve round neck shirts and soft-winged hoes, which are still in Tang style, but their feet are replaced with casual shoes that are more convenient for daily life. The representative costumes of the old people in the Song Dynasty are wide-body robes and large-sleeved Dongpo towels. The robe was edged with dark cloth to keep the ancient style. Dongpo towel is a square tube-shaped towel, which was created by Su Dongpo, a great writer. In fact, it is the revival of ancient towels, which were often worn by old gentry in the Ming Dynasty. Folk first clothes were also very popular in Song Dynasty. Men are popular with hoes and scarves, while women are popular with crowns and hijabs. Women's hair style and corolla were the focus of people's pursuit of beauty at that time, which best reflected the changes of clothing in Song Dynasty. The crown of women in Tang and Five Dynasties has become more and more dangerous, and the crown of women in Song Dynasty has further developed and changed. Usually put a flower and bird comb on the bun, and there is no surprise. Liao, Xixia and Jin were the regimes established by Qidan, Tangut and Jurchen in ancient China respectively. Their costumes reflect the development track of their respective national traditions in the long-term cultural exchange with the Han nationality? /cc & gt； Table 5 Clothing of men and women in different dynasties in China? Romeo? Hey hey? Feed f acyl (1)? Few words? What are you doing? What's the point? Do you want to pay? Women wear long gowns with narrow sleeves and collars, and they are all left-handed. Contrary to the Han people, the fishing piers they used to wear are widely popular in the mainland. Considering the reality of living together with the Han nationality, the Liao-Jin regime once set up the system of "Southern Officials", ruled the Han nationality in China together with the Han nationality, and adopted the old system of official uniforms in Tang and Song Dynasties for Han officials. In Liao dynasty, the embroidery patterns of flowers, birds and animals on silk official uniforms were used to distinguish official products, which affected the grade identification of official uniforms in Ming and Qing dynasties. In the Jin Dynasty, the rank was determined by the size of the flowers on the official clothes, and the lowest rank was sesame without grains or small diamond grains. The men's wear of Khitan and Jurchen is also adopted by Han people because it is easy to move. In the first year of Yanyou in Yuan Dynasty (13 14), considering the ancient and modern Mongolian and Chinese costume systems, uniform regulations were made on the colors of official and civilian costumes. In the Han dynasty, the official uniforms were mostly Tang-style round collars and hoes; Mongolian officials wear collared clothes and square corrugated hats; For the convenience of galloping at once, plaited coats (round neck tight sleeve robe, wide hem, plaited waist) and hats are the most popular among the middle and lower classes. In the Yuan Dynasty, various textiles appeared, such as Nashiya Gold, Mixed Gold Zigzag, Jindianzi, Douluojin, Sanling, Dasi, Suu, Nansi, Beisi, Hibiscus and Fanjin. During the Yuan Dynasty, there were 10 many times a year. At that time, thousands of officials wore high-grade dresses with the same color and style, decorated with gems and jewels, which was called high-quality sun clothes, which was rare in past dynasties. In the Ming dynasty, this kind of clothing was used as a police costume.
Seven, Ming and Qing dynasties clothing (1368 ~1911)
In the Ming Dynasty, the traditional costumes of Han nationality were the main body, while in the Qing Dynasty, Manchu costumes were the mainstream. The costumes of the upper and lower classes of the two generations have obvious grades. The official dress of the upper class is a symbol of power, which has always been valued by the ruling class. Since the Tang and Song Dynasties, robes and yellow have been exclusively used by the royal family. Since the Southern and Northern Dynasties, purple is the most expensive. In the Ming Dynasty, because the emperor's surname was Zhu, Zhu was the positive color, and because the Analects of Confucius had "evil purple to take Zhu also", purple was abolished from official uniforms. The most distinctive feature is to use "tonic" to express the grade. The patch is a piece of silk about 40 ~ 50 cm square, embroidered with different patterns, and then sewn on the official clothes, one on the chest and one on the back. Civil servants use birds as a supplement, and military officers use animals, which are divided into nine categories. Usually, T-shirts are distinguished by the length of clothes and the size of sleeves, and the old ones are the most respected. The main first clothes of officials in Ming Dynasty are slightly different from those in Song and Yuan Dynasties. The emperor wore black gauze and folded towels, and the wings of his hat stood up from behind. The official robe wears lacquered yarn with spreading wings and often wears his duties. The wives and mothers of the banned officials also have red big sleeve dresses with different stripes and decorations and various summer shawls. In addition, high heels have been used by upper-class women, which are divided into high heels and high heels. In the Ming Dynasty, people's clothes were long and short, including shirts or skirts, which basically inherited the old tradition and had a very rich variety. In terms of dress color, civilian wives and daughters can only wear purple, green, pink and other colors to avoid mixing with official clothes; Working people are only allowed to use brown. Apart from the old hats that have been popular since the Tang and Song Dynasties, Zhu Yuanzhang personally formulated two kinds of hats, which were promulgated throughout the country and used by ordinary people. One is a square barrel-shaped black lacquer gauze cap, called a square nipple; One is a hemispherical hat composed of six pieces, called Liuhe unified hat, which means equality in all countries and unity in the world. The latter, commonly known as melon skin hat, is made of black velvet and satin. During the Qing dynasty, shaving and changing clothes were carried out by violent means, and men's clothes were unified according to Manchu customs. In the ninth year of Shunzhi (1652), the regulations on wearing colorful epaulettes were promulgated, abolishing the crown clothes with strong colors in China. In the Ming Dynasty, all men wore their hair in a bun and wore loose clothes, stockings and pumps. In the Qing dynasty, the hair was shaved into braids, and the braids hung behind the head, wearing thin horseshoe cufflinks and tight socks and deep boots. However, according to the law, official and folk costumes are completely different. The main variety of official uniforms in Qing dynasty is robes and mandarin jackets. A jacket is a coat added to a robe, named after it originated from riding a jacket. It is characterized by a slit at the front and back, and a blue chest (disc for the king of Prince Edward County). Buzi's bird and beast patterns and order are similar to those of the Ming Dynasty. The official hats of the Qing dynasty are completely different from those of previous dynasties. Military and political personnel above non-commissioned officers and officers wear weft hats that look like hats, which are divided into warm hats and cool hats according to winter and summer seasons. They were also dressed in "coats" of different colors and materials, and a bunch of peacock feathers were dragged behind their hats. Ling is called Hualing. There are "eyes" (round spots on feathers) on the senior ling, which can be divided into one eye, two eyes and three eyes. More eyes are more expensive, and only princes or ministers with outstanding achievements are rewarded. The emperor sometimes wears a yellow jacket to show his special affection. As far as the influence is concerned, mandarin jackets of other colors have gradually become popular among officials and gentry, and become ordinary costumes. Officials above grade four or five still hang beads of Buddha around their necks, which are made of all kinds of precious stones and fragrant wood, which constitutes another feature of official uniforms in the Qing Dynasty. The progress of silk weaving, embroidery, printing and dyeing and various manual occupations created conditions for the richness of clothing varieties in the Qing Dynasty. The development of women's wear in Qing dynasty, Han nationality and Manchu nationality was different. During Kang Yong period, Han women kept Ming style, while clothes and long skirts were popular in small sleeve. After finishing, the clothes are getting fatter and shorter, the cuffs are getting wider and wider, and with the cloud shoulders, the pattern renovation is endless; By the end of the Qing Dynasty, urban women had put on skirts and trousers, which were inlaid with lace and rolled teeth, and most expensive clothes were spent on them. Manchu women wear "flag clothes", comb the flag bun (commonly known as two ends) and wear "flowerpot bottom" flag shoes. As for the so-called cheongsam circulated in later generations, it has long been mainly used in the court and the royal family. In the late Qing dynasty, cheongsam was also imitated by the ladies of the Han nationality.
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