1, powder
Powder should be one of the earliest cosmetics used by ancient women in China. The word "make-up" first appeared in Han Feizi's Blood Donation, and it was also mentioned in Han Feizi that "the beauty of western beauty is not good for our appearance, but twice as early as using grease fence". From the sentence "white powder with black", we can know that powder is a cosmetic with whitening function. At the same time, in Shuo Wen Jie Zi, most of the words are related to food, and some are related to makeup. Besides powder, there are cakes and cakes. A mushy object. Moreover, from rice to noodles, noodles refer to faces. It can be seen from the word "rice" that its main raw material is rice that people eat every day. When making, the soaked new rice is finely ground into slurry, put into a round rice bowl, and fermented and precipitated to obtain white and delicate rice flour. Then drying in the sun and grinding into powder to obtain rice flour; Add spices, that is, "powder". "Shi Mao Shu" said: "Orchid, vanilla also. Everything planted in the Han Palace can be powdered. " In the Book of Qi Yaomin, there are also records about fragrant powder. "Only the powder box cloves are naturally fragrant." Bluegrass and clove are both vanilla, whitening cosmetics with the same function as rice flour, and lead powder, which belong to the advanced cosmetics used by ancient women in China.
Lead powder is fine in texture and white in color, and its production process is close to modern cosmetics. It is obtained by chemical reaction, and it is actually a chemical product. Its extraction and production methods are complicated. According to Bao Puzi's Internal Chapter, lead and tin react with acetic acid to form Huang Dan, which is then transformed into paste lead powder by Huang Dan. Like rice noodles, they are dried and ground into powder, hence the name "lead powder", and some are also made into powder blocks.
2. Daimei
Eyebrow makeup is the second process after facial makeup. The ancients used to describe women's eyebrow makeup, and the most common one was to wear eyebrows. "Taiping Yu Lan" records: "Dye bluestone to wear." It is said that Dai is from the Western Regions. A kind of Dyestuff pigment was put into Dai Yan inkstone, ground into powder, then mixed with water and coated on Yumei. Diane is a blue-black dye extracted from minerals. It is recorded in Interpretation of Names and Jewelry: "Wear, wear also. Destroy your eyebrows and replace them with this picture. " It can be seen that wearing is not only a kind of dyeing, but also a way of thrusting, that is, trimming eyebrows first and then thrusting. In ancient times, some women had bad eyebrows, so they pulled out some of them first and then painted them on. This kind of plug-in method has continued to this day, and it is no different from today's plug-in method.
3. Lips
Red lips are the most typical description of ancient women's lip makeup. There is a sentence in Wei Zhuang's poem "Jiangchengzi": "The lips move and the mouth is fragrant." This sentence summarizes the characteristics of ancient lip cosmetics: one is red color, the other is lipid substance, and the third is fragrance. Visible ancient lipstick should be mixed with animal fat, such as cinnabar, and mixed with spices paste.
4. Rouge
Rouge is another essential cosmetic for ancient women. It is said that rouge was first introduced from the western regions, but its production method is still taken from pure nature. Rouge was first taken from a plant called red and blue flowers and made by grinding and boiling. In addition to red and blue flowers, there are other flowers and fruits that can also be called rouge raw materials. It is recorded in Qi Yaoming's Book: "(Sunflower Seed) is actually a berry, deep purple, which can be used as rouge, so it is called rouge dish." Another material that can be used as rouge-pomegranate flower is also mentioned in Wu Kai in Tiangong. "The ancient production (Yan Zhi) is mainly based on purple ore dyeing brocade, followed by safflower juice and pomegranate flowers."
5. Kou Dan
Jade hand, ten fingers Danke. This is the most beautiful expression of ancient female hands. It's ancient nail polish, Dan is red and Kou is nutmeg. Ancient women dyed their nails with pigments from natural plants. There is a poem in Qu You's "New Theory of Cutting Lights" in the Ming Dynasty: "Dye fine red nails and pound the golden pots of impatiens at night." It can be seen that Impatiens balsamina is one of the sources used by ancient women to dye their nails. Moreover, this nail dyeing method is still used by many elderly people even now. Mash the flowers and leaves, wrap them in leaves and apply them to your nails. After about two or three days, the nails will be dyed orange. Compared with the pungent smell of nail polish now, ancient nail art is naturally much fresher.
6. flower buds
In ancient times, in addition to the basic makeup, women also painted some small patterns on their foreheads as decorations, which were called flower buds. According to Song Gaocheng's "Miscellaneous Five Elements" quoted from "Story of Hou Ji", the Southern Dynasties "Shouyang Princess, Song Wudi female, lying under the eaves of Zhangdian, plum blossoms fell into five flowers. After washing for three days, it fell off, and the ladies-in-waiting were different, and the competition results were different. "I don't know why it's called plum blossom makeup or Shouyang makeup. In ancient times, the materials for making flower buds were very rich, including gold foil, paper, fish scales and camellia cakes. The most interesting thing is that even dragonfly wings can be used as flower buds. For example, "Dream" written in the Song Dynasty said: "In the late Tang Dynasty, the imperial court or the net got dragonflies and loved their delicate green, so they painted their wings with golden pens and made small flowers. "It can be seen that in ancient times, women's makeup methods were not only rich, but also unique and eclectic. In addition to the plum blossom shape, there are all kinds of birds, small fish and ducklings, which are very beautiful and novel.
7.buns
Hair that is coiled into various shapes at the top of the head or back of the head: a bun. It is recorded in the note of the Book of Rites Quli that fifteen women are allowed to marry and twenty women are not allowed to marry. "Fu" was originally used for combing hair. "Dressing Table" said: "Zhou Wenwang added pearls and flowers to the bun and painted it with lead powder, which made the bun higher than the Phoenix bun. There is also a cloud bun, which is shaken step by step, so it is called step shake. I learned the immortal skills in the palace, but I combed the fairy bun and the harem did it anyway. After that, there are Spring Festival steamed buns and cloud-hanging steamed buns, which are not bad. Li Furen, Emperor Wu of the Han Dynasty, scratched his head with a hairpin. Since then, the court has used jade. " In the famous Zhou Fang painting "The Picture of a Lady with a Flower", several ladies in tulle clothes all wore high bun, which was called E bun in the Tang Dynasty, and the height can reach more than one foot, showing the elegance of girls. During the Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties, women's facial makeup was bolder in color application than before, and the form of makeup also changed greatly. Women took thinness as beauty. During this period, women's hair styles were mainly flowers and clouds. Rich women wore hairpins made of gold, jade, tortoiseshell and treasures, and flowers were welcomed by all walks of life.
Traditional Chinese medicine and ancient cosmetics are also closely related. This is also a major feature of domestic cosmetics. Botanical cosmetics appeared in Shennong's herbal classics in Qin and Han Dynasties. It has been suggested that many herbs are beneficial to the skin, such as angelica dahurica, which can grow and moisturize the skin and make facial fat. Angelica dahurica is one of the main raw materials of traditional plant cosmetics in China. Facial fat made of angelica dahurica was a plant cosmetic used by women at that time and was recommended by doctors. Botanical cosmetics were very popular in the Tang Dynasty, favored by upper-class women and recorded in many medical classics. Sun Simiao, a medical scientist in the Tang Dynasty, recorded more than 80 kinds of Chinese medicine beauty prescriptions such as Danggui Sini Decoction and Babai Powder in Qian Jin Fang. Among them, the most famous beauty prescription is the most detailed one recorded in the "God Hospital" compiled by Xu Guojia, a court physician in the Yuan Dynasty, and the most popular seven-white cream now comes from this book.
The Book of Songs records that "the Boqi River is like a cornice. No ointment? Who is right for you? " After her husband left, she was too lazy to put on makeup. It's not that she doesn't wear makeup, but that she is very tolerant of herself. It can be seen that women's beauty makeup was very popular at that time.
During the Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties, there was little change in makeup, mainly including drunken makeup, peach blossom makeup and Fei Xia makeup. There is also a special makeup style in this period, called "purple makeup". According to China's Notes on Ancient and Modern Times, one of Wei Wendi's favorite ladies-in-waiting is Duan Qiaoxiao, who often wears brocade with purple powder on her face. At that time, this kind of makeup was rare, but it can be seen that ancient purple is a symbol of luxury aesthetic consciousness.
Bai Juyi, a poet in the Tang Dynasty, wrote a famous poem Contemporary Makeup, which spread all over the city. Fashion has no distance, and there is no powder on the cheeks. The lips are black as mud, and the eyebrows are painted low. Yan Huan lost her original state in black and white, and her makeup looked like she was crying. Round enamel is not like a bun piled on the temple, and it is reddish and not dizzy. I heard yesterday that I was sent to Yichuan. Xin is knowledgeable and knowledgeable. Yuan He Zhuang Shu Jun remembers that the pile of noodles is not Chinese style. "This poem vividly and meticulously depicts the makeup of women who used to be crazy in Tang poetry, with no makeup on their faces and black ointment on their lips to make them look like mud. The final situation is that "Yan Yan lost her original black and white state".
In the Bible Tao of the Song Dynasty, it was emphasized that "the beauty of staying in beauty should be based on benefiting qi and blood first. If not, it is nothing more than the ability to paint a face! " Clearly oppose the practice of focusing only on whitewashing and not seeking roots. So women's makeup is fresh, elegant and natural, but white and red are the basic elements of facial makeup. Therefore, red makeup is still an indispensable part of women's makeup methods in Song Dynasty.
The traditional beauty of China reached its peak in the Ming Dynasty. Puji Fang, compiled by Zhu Cai and others in the early Ming Dynasty, is a great summary of China's beauty prescriptions, and the collection of beauty drugs is unprecedented. Women in the Ming Dynasty generally liked flat hairstyles, such as "peach heart bun", "peach pointed bun" and "goose gall feather bun". Wigs made in this period became more and more exquisite, and many of them were ornaments made of silver, gold, ponytail and yarn, such as bun and cloud bun, which were worn on real hair. The headdress includes headdress, hairpin and crown, and the enamel firing technology is introduced from abroad to make the jewelry more exquisite. Slender and slightly curved eyebrows, slender eyes, thin lips and plain and white faces are the overall impressions left by women in the Ming Dynasty. They are beautiful, very beautiful.
"Songs of the South Zhao Da" described the beauty at that time: "Yi Zhong and Li Xin only acted; White and black, Shi Fangze. " It can be seen that as early as the pre-Qin era, those smart, elegant and natural beauty began to make up. They paint powder, thrush, incense and dress up carefully. At that time, makeup and beauty had appeared, and women in the pre-Qin period especially liked to apply powder, which had a great influence on modern women in China. The so-called "daughter of Zheng Zhou, with leucorrhea and black leucorrhea" in The Warring States Policy Chu Ce III reflects the aesthetic taste of contemporary women. Not only the women of Chu in the south where Qu Yuan lives like to make up, but also the women of Zheng and Zhou in the north and the west like to make up, so that even the king of Chu exclaimed that he had never seen such a beautiful woman in the Central Plains.