Youguanfu
Tian Tong crown dress is second only to crown dress. The crown is wrapped in the North Pearl and has 24 beams. The crown is decorated with Jinboshan and cicada, and woven into a purple gauze robe with Yunlong pattern. White yarn square curved collar (Song Dynasty square curved collar is a decoration below the upper circle, shaped like a lock piece, which plays a role of pressure and adhesion between necklines to prevent the collar from rising, meaning round place) and crimson gauze skirt (. The form of Tian Tong Crown is very rough, which is far from reality. The Tian Tongguan worn by Emperor Huatian in the "Fights of Immortals in Yuan Dynasty" written by Wu Zongyuan in the Northern Song Dynasty is close to reality, and is similar in shape to the Tian Tongguan worn by King China at the head of "King Kong Prajna Paramita" published by Tang Xiantong, a stone chamber in Dunhuang in the ninth year, but a guide and a "were" were added in the Song Dynasty. The shape of the traveling crown is the same as that of Tian Tongguan, except that there is no cicada pattern on Jinbo Mountain in front.
Yuan You has 18 beams, Jinbo Mountain has no cicada pattern, and the rest Tian Tongguan is used by the Crown Prince.
(3) Royal robes
It consists of a purple robe skirt lined with white flowers, a large belt, a belt to cover the knees, a square-hearted curved collar, white stockings and black leather shoes. Officials above Grade 6 hang jade swords and Yu Pei. In addition, there is a brocade ribbon hanging around the waist, and different patterns are used to distinguish official products. Ignaz kogler's crown, the story of Diusim's crown (that is, the Song Dynasty evolved into a square-topped, hanging down to the shoulder, with Peng Yu's cage towel inserted on the top side of the crown) or crown. And put a white pen on the crown. Hold the water board in your hand. From the Northern Dynasties to the Tang Dynasty, the curved collar centered on the square was lined with a semi-circular hard lining on the single top to make the collar bulge. In the Song Dynasty, the upper round and lower ornaments (that is, the square collar with round bottom) were pressed on the collar.
(4) Official services (i.e. official services)
Basically inherited the style of the Tang Dynasty: big sleeve curved collar (round neck), bottom horizontal collar, waist belt, hoe on the head, boots or shoes. For public services, purple is used for more than three products, red for more than five products, green for more than seven products, and cyan for more than nine products. During the Yuanfeng period of North Song Shenzong (A.D. 1078 to 1085), it was changed to purple level 4 or above, scarlet level 6 or above, and green level 9 or above. Anyone who wears purple clothes will bring a fish bag.
(5) Time service
According to the previous system, gowns, coats, shirts, gowns (hugging the belly), silks, trousers, etc. will be given to officials of the civil and military officials and the general school in the season of each year or the five holidays of the emperor. , and carve them into four petals with the music of the world (lantern brocade) (the circle is divided by a cross, and the symmetrical flying carvings are made of fine brocade, yellow lion brocade and green capillary brocade (woven from peacock feather wool).
(6) Changes in the shape of hoes
Wotou was the earliest uniform in the Song Dynasty, and it was widely used. In the Song Dynasty, steamed corn buns were lined with wooden bones or rattan grass, woven with lacquer yarn, and made into hats that could be taken off at will, unlike the soft-footed steamed corn buns wrapped in towels and handkerchiefs in the early Tang Dynasty. Later, the rattan grass was simply discarded, and it was specially lined with wooden bones, which was flat and beautiful. The first volume of Meng Qian Bitan said: "Shantou has straight feet, local feet, crossed feet, facing the sky and downwind, all of which are fifth-class, and only straight feet can be humble." Straight feet are also called flat feet or flat feet, that is, the feet are flat and extend outward. The feet of the bureau are bent with two feet. The ninth volume of Dream of China in Tokyo is called a roll-up hoe, and the angle of the hoe is rolled up. This style of hoe can be found in the murals of Baisha Song Tomb. Jiao Jiao is a cross-shaped hoe with two feet tilted behind the hat, which is the style of Liao tomb murals in Xuanhua, Hebei. In the sky, the feet tilt directly from the back of the hat and do not intersect. This style can be found in the murals of Kaihua Temple in Gaoping, Shanxi Province in the Song Dynasty. The two feet of the downstream hoe lean to one side, showing a dynamic trend of balance, which is the style of Tang Wei's tomb in Xi 'an. In addition, in Xiao Zhao's "Zhongxing Jiatu", officers wear a hoe similar to a Song-style towel, which is called a curved wing hoe. There is also a kind of bread without wings, which is worn by ordinary working people In the Southern Song Dynasty, when Emperor Tai Shang held birthday and wedding banquets for the new Jinshi, he inserted red, yellow, silver and red on the bread to show his affection. A dome hoe was unearthed from Zhou Yu's tomb in the Southern Song Dynasty in Jintan, Jiangsu Province. The feet are made of bamboo strips, with two layers of gauze on the surface. The gauze on the surface is painted with black paint, and the back edge is open. There is a Song-style lacquer gauze hat handed down from ancient times in Confucius' House in Qufu, Shandong Province, with iron feet as bones. It is fixed on the hat and cannot be disassembled. It is hidden in a hat box made of rattan like a gauze hat. The hat is small in size and is worn by young people.
(7) Scarves and hats of literati in the Song Dynasty
Scholars in the Song Dynasty usually like to wear tall and square towels, hats and wide clothes, thinking that they are very elegant. Song people called it "Gao Zhuang towel", often named after famous literati, such as Dongpo towel, towel and valley towel. There are also those named after Italy, such as Xiaoyao towel and Gaoshi towel. The History of Painting in Mi Fei once said that the scribes first used purple gauze as a headscarf without a top, which was called forehead, and later winners used purple gauze as a headscarf with a long top to distinguish it from Shu Ren. Shu Ren has developed from floral headscarves and tapestry towels to carefree towels. Its high-clothing towel, similar to Dongpo towel, has appeared in the night banquet of Han Xizai in the Five Dynasties. Nine old paintings of Huichang in the Song Dynasty in the Palace Museum depict nine people of Huichang in the Tang Dynasty, namely Li, Monk Ruman, Hu Xun, Ji Xun, Lu Zhen, Zhang Wei and Bai Juyi. Clothes and costumes are Song Renye's old casual clothes, which are similar to those collected by Zhao in the Palace Museum. Are you crazy about the right wheel? Used to swim? What do you mean by danger? What's the matter with you? School? Are you right? Xian seized the nose sword? Stewed stupid garden? Lv Zhuang e? K chop? Filter? Wood faded and invaded Zheng? Clothing, clothes, and clothes are all wide, extremely wide, and the waist is tied with silk. It is the costume of "clothes are everything" handed down by Song people imitating ancient deep clothes. (8) Armor in Song Dynasty
China's armor was standardized in the Five Dynasties. It was recorded in Ceng Gongliang's "Wu Jing Zong Yao" in the Northern Song Dynasty that the armor was customized, and the body of the armor covered the chest and back, and it was tied with a belt from the shoulder. The waist is tied with a belt from the back to the front, with two knee-length skirts hanging down from the waist and a shoulder (covering shoulder) on the upper body of the nail. Pockets are round and complicated, and suffixes protect the neck. The top is protruding and decorated with a bunch of long tassels, which looks solid and dignified. Meng Qian Bi Tan (Volume 19) records the armor of the Song Dynasty with weapons. It consists of cold forged armor pieces, which cannot be penetrated by a strong crossbow within 50 steps.
(9) Ming Fu's clothing in Song Dynasty
Maids in the Song Dynasty were graded according to men's official uniforms. Maids at home and abroad include robes, mourning clothes, bow dresses, Zhu dresses, hairpin dresses and uniforms. The queen received books, visited Jingling Palace, and held meetings at the court. The princess and the crown prince are both registered, and the court will serve them. The queen kissed the silkworm and bowed. The maid bowed to the emperor and hung the scarlet coat. At the banquet, the guests wore dresses. In addition to the queen's robe, the servant girl also wears the four phoenix crowns in Kowloon, with 65,438+02 large and small flower branches on the crown, and two rich temples on the left and right sides (that is, there are two leaf-shaped ornaments on the left and right sides of the crown, which are later called covered temples), and Luo Qing Embroidered Temple (Tam) 65,438+02. (that is, row 12). During the Zhenghe period of Song Huizong (A.D.11to 1 165438), it was stipulated that the jewelry of Ming wood was a flower hairpin crown, and the temples were decorated with jewelry and clothes, and Luo Qing embroidery was used as a decoration. There are 9 flowers in one product, the number of gems is the same as the number of flowers, and there are 9 embroidered clothes. 8 second-class flower hairpin, 8 lent, etc. Seven third-grade flower hairpin, Zhai Qi, etc. Four-grade flower hairpin 6 strains, Zhai 6 strains and so on; Five kinds of flower hairpin, Zhai 5, etc. Zhai's clothes are lined with plain yarn, single collar, Zhu Cuo (sleeve) and Zhu Cuo (skirt), universal Luo Cuo, with the same color on the knees and embroidered pattern (deep red and blue) on the hem. The big belt, belt, green socks and Gabe ribbon were all taken from the silkworm ceremony.
The uniforms of famous women at home and abroad are Zhen Hong's long sleeves, with red flowers (that is, sketch-shaped flowers) as the collar and long red skirts. Red hairpin, Yaoyu (that is, glass feed) is a pendant. Red Robertson, yellow and red tulle shirts, white tulle pants, yellow skirt, pink tulle top.
Menfu clothing
Including the clothes that officials usually wear in private places, or when they return home with ordinary people.
Coronation clothes: The Song Dynasty began to reduce the types of coronation clothes, and non-coronation clothes were often worn in ceremonies.
Court dress: In the Song Dynasty, special decoration was added under the strong dress, which was called "square-heart bent collar".
Public office: In Song Dynasty, official office was official service.
Women's wear:
Costume: Its costume color is roughly the same as that of the Tang Dynasty.
Regular clothes: all are long-sleeved tops, long skirts and gowns.
General dress of women in Song Dynasty
Including the clothes worn by aristocratic women and the families of wealthy businessmen, as well as women in song and dance brothels attached to the upper class of society.
(A) Yan, coat
Women's clothes and tops in Song Dynasty were short, mainly red and purple, followed by yellow, and brocade, silk or embroidery were used as the texture. Often paired with skirts.
(2) shirts
The general tops of women in the Northern Song Dynasty are mostly made of Luo.
(3) robes
In the Song Dynasty, women generally wore robes, which was only for singers and musicians at court, at banquets, dances and songs.
(4) Xunzi
Also known as Chuozi, men in Song Dynasty wore it from emperors, officials, scholars, businessmen and Yiwei. Women wear them from queens, concubines, princesses to ordinary women. But men usually use it as a lining for casual clothes or clothes. Women can wear it as a formal dress (official dress) or as a formal dress next to a big dress. Although raccoons were popular costumes in the Sui and Tang Dynasties, the sleeves of raccoons in the Sui and Tang Dynasties were half-jointed and their bodies were not long. In Song Dynasty, the clothes were long-sleeved, with long sleeves and crotch under the armpit, that is, the clothes were not stitched back and forth, and there were belts under the armpit and back suffix. This double belt under the armpit could have been used to tie the front and back skirts, but the raccoon in the Song Dynasty was hung for decoration rather than tying it, which means imitating the form of ancient single (underwear) belts and indicating' keeping the old and keeping the old'. When you wear a robe, you tie it around your waist with silk. There are three kinds of lapels in Song Dynasty: straight lapels and double lapels, oblique lapels and disc lapels, among which straight lapels are the most. Oblique collar and disc collar are only worn by men under public service, while women wear straight collar and double-breasted style. As for the name of Xunzi, there is another saying in the Song Dynasty that Xunzi was originally the clothes of maids and concubines, so it was called Xunzi because maids and concubines generally stood behind housewives. Housewives with status wear big sleeves. Maids-in-waiting and concubines wear clothes with crotch under their arms, which is more convenient to walk. Women's dresses in Song Dynasty were short at first, and then lengthened, and developed into a standard format with sleeves larger than shirts and skirts.
(5) Half arm
Half-sleeve gown is a traditional costume since Sui and Tang Dynasties, which was worn by both men and women in Song Dynasty.
(6) Vest and crotch
Sleeveless half arm is vest, which was also called back girdle in Hangzhou in Song Dynasty. A short vest is called crotch. Both men and women wear it.
(7) double-breasted jacket
The double-breasted coat is longer than the knee and the sleeves are narrow, but the sleeves are not elbow-length, which is longer than the spiral coat worn by men.
(8) Waist
In the Song Dynasty, women often wore a waistcoat with a yellow color, which was called' waist yellow'. The form is similar to the waist defense worn by male soldiers.
(9) Wipe the chest and wrap the belly
It's all underwear.
(10) skirt
There were 6, 8 and 12 skirts in Song Dynasty. Pleated skirts: There are 1 pieces of pleated skirts unearthed from Huangsheng Tomb in the Southern Song Dynasty in Fuzhou, of which 6 pieces are pleated 15, except for 2 pieces with no pleats on both sides, making a total of 60 pleats. In the Song Dynasty, there was also a kind of skirt with front and back crotch, which was called rotating skirt. The decorative pattern on the skirt is painted, dyed, embroidered with gold or decorated with pearls. The color is tulip root dyed yellow, kabuki wears red, pomegranate skirt is the most beautiful, mostly recited by poets. Green and green skirts are mostly worn by elderly women or rural women.
(1 1) Pants and cuffs
In the Song Dynasty, due to the development of furniture and the use of plush chairs, chairs, stools and dressing tables. People have developed from sitting on the couch to sitting with their feet down, and when they go out, they have developed from riding horses and sedan chairs to riding ox carts, unicycles, series cars and flat cars, and sedan chairs have also developed from large sedan chairs to small ones without curtains. The pace of life is faster than in the past, and the reflection of clothing style is the shape of pants. Ancient trousers had no crotch, and shorts with crotch were called crotch. According to feudal ethics, women can't wear these two kinds of pants. In the Song Dynasty, the upper-class women wore trousers and a long skirt. The open pants unearthed from Huangsheng Tomb of Southern Song Dynasty in Fuzhou are pants worn in long skirts. Inferior prostitutes wear shirts and pants instead of skirts, which is a great progress in the use function.
(12) Footwear
During the Northern Song Dynasty and the Song Dynasty, women with status had practiced foot binding, which made women's physical morphology abnormal, which was the alienation of aesthetic psychology in feudal society. At that time, women's shoes were small and pointed, with red belts as uppers, and the tips of shoes were often made into hat tops. Working women in the south do not bind their feet because they farm in the fields, and wear flat heads, round heads or sandals. And Gong Song * * * also has a big foot wearing boots.
Song dynasty jewelry ornaments
Judging from the current situation, the unearthed objects of the first batch of ornaments in the Song Dynasty are not as rich as those in the previous generation.
(1) hair accessories
1. Silver comb
A silver comb engraved with lion-patterned half-moon curly grass was unearthed from Yi Tomb in the Northern Song Dynasty in Pengze, Jiangxi Province. The main flower is decorated with complicated side ornaments, and the lower layer is connected with the comb teeth by petal patterns. Exquisite and rich, it still maintains the style of the Tang Dynasty. Judging from the costumes of the patrons of murals in Cave 98 of Dunhuang Mogao Grottoes in the early Northern Song Dynasty, aristocratic women in Hexi area wore flower arrangements, combs and jewelry necklaces, which were more popular than in the Tang and Five Dynasties.
2. Hosta and gold-plated silver hairpin
1974, unearthed from the stone tomb of the Northern Song Dynasty in Changgouyu, Fangshan, Beijing 1 jade double hairpin, length15cm, width1.7cm.. They branch off from the hook-shaped hairpin head and merge into two strands, with the tail gradually tapering and the end rounded. Several gold-plated silver hairpins were unearthed from Zhou Tomb of Southern Song Dynasty in De 'an, Jiangxi. Some of them have double embossed flowers on their heads, while others have ordinary faces without lines.
Step three: bang
① Glass hairpin: 1 Southern Song Dynasty glass hairpin unearthed in Changsha, Hunan Province, 7.9 cm long, with a nail-hat-shaped head with a diameter of 1.2 cm and transparency.
② Golden hairpin: 65,438+0 carved golden hairpin unearthed from the Northern Song Dynasty site in Yongjia, Zhejiang. The head of the hairpin is flat and olive-shaped, with high relief and dragon pattern on the flowers and hollow grass pattern on the bottom. The tail of the hairpin is tapered and pointed, which makes it very delicate.
③ Silver Hairpins: Silver Hairpins unearthed from the Southern Song Dynasty Zhou Tomb in De 'an, Jiangxi Province, some of which are carved with flowers or inlaid with gems, and some have no ornamentation. Three hollowed-out carved silver hairpins (9.9 cm to 16.8 cm in length) were unearthed from Huangsheng Tomb in the Southern Song Dynasty in Fuzhou, and were inserted into the bun when unearthed.
(2) earrings
1 In March, 972, a pair of gold earrings with embossed patterns were unearthed from Yi Tomb of the Northern Song Dynasty in Huxi Village, pengze county, Jiangxi Province. The rings are connected by crescent-shaped decoration, with embossed chrysanthemum patterns on them, and the branches and leaves are scattered to the left and right with exquisite craftsmanship.
(3) Neck ornaments
Among the unearthed Song Dynasty ornaments, there are two gold necklace pendants, which are extremely exquisite.
1. Gallbladder-shaped gold pendant: 1 Gallbladder-shaped gold pendant, 8.5 cm high and 5.7 cm wide,1Unearthed from the tomb of the Northern Song Dynasty in Mufu Mountain, Nanjing in February, 980. The pendant is beautifully carved? There are patterns, grass-rolling edges around, and holes in the center of the top wishful head to connect with the chain, which is exquisite in workmanship.
2. Doll-shaped gold pendant: 1 A golden doll crawling on the ground was unearthed from the tomb of Shi Sheng Formation in Guayuan Village, Quzhou City, Zhejiang Province in June 1 year. The dolls are plump and cheerful, with a movable square ring in their right hand, which can be connected with the necklace. The design and manufacture are extremely exquisite.
(4) Wrist ornaments
1 972 March, unearthed from the Yi Tomb of the Northern Song Dynasty in Huxi Village, pengze county, Jiangxi Province1Silver bracelet with a diameter of 6.9 cm. The bracelet is flat and wide, and gradually tapers to both ends. The middle of the bracelet surface is decorated with double ridges, which echo the ribs on both sides and are simple and generous. There is a gap at the joint between the two ends, which can adjust the tightness.
(5) Belt
Since the Five Dynasties, it is no longer popular to hang cymbals on belts, and cymbals have also evolved into double cymbals. In this way, after the cymbals (Tο sound) are tied around the waist, the cymbals can be installed in the front and back, becoming a prominent decoration of clothes. In August, 1972 and 1 pair of belt silver enamels were unearthed in liu village, Fufeng County, Shaanxi Province, which consisted of 9 pieces of square embossed baby silver enamels. Playing with babies is a very popular theme in Song Dynasty's arts and crafts decoration.
Fashion patterns popular in Song Dynasty
In Song Dynasty, silk was the main clothing fabric, and the varieties were brocade, embroidered silk, yarn, silk and silk. Chengdu Shu Brocade is the most famous brocade in Song Dynasty, and its patterns include eight halos, six halos and carpets with combined geometric patterns. Geometric flowers inserted sunflower, four golden eagle clusters, big nest horse carpet, snowflake carpet road, double nest cloud goose and so on. Music in the World with artifacts as its theme (Lantern Brocade written by Wen Yanbo to flatter Renzong Zhang Guifei in Chengdu). The theme of characters is suitable for male flowers. Zhen Hong Chuanhua Peak, Zhen Hong Baihua Peacock, Green Cao Rui Cloud, etc. Ruyi Peony, Hibiscus, heavy lotus, True Red Cherry, Zhen Hong Moist, etc. Lions, Yunyan, Gastrodia elata, goldfish, Heng, Xiang Luan and so on. Geometric patterns include turtle pattern, meandering water, palindrome, square victory, ripple, persimmon, jujube flower and so on. The costume patterns in Song Dynasty were influenced by the flower-and-bird paintings outlined by the Academy of Painting, which tended to be realistic and closely composed. The pattern style of the Song Dynasty is completely different from that of the Tang Dynasty, but its influence on the Ming and Qing Dynasties is very obvious, and almost a pattern has been formed from the theme to the modeling techniques.
In the Song Dynasty, due to the weakness of national strength and the emptiness of financial resources, a large number of tapestries were used to pay tribute or trade to foreigners, and most of the clothing fabrics of domestic rulers were silk yarns, such as objects unearthed from Hejiaso's tomb in Hengyang, Hunan, Zhou Yu's tomb in Maolu, Jintan, Jiangsu, and Huangsheng's tomb in Fucang Mountain, a northern suburb of Fuzhou. In the early years of the Northern Song Dynasty, the royal guards of honor in the Song Dynasty all wore gorgeous costumes, and later they switched to printing, and the printing process was prohibited from being used by the people. However, Tang, the bureaucratic landlord of the Song Dynasty, was forbidden to open a colored silk shop in Wuzhou, his hometown, and use public funds to carve printing plates for printing and dyeing. There is also a famous engraving and printing artist Li in Luoyang Xianxiangfang, who is called "Hua". Book collection (68 1 volume) Suzhou textile famous objects talk about the Southern Song Dynasty Ningzong Jiading period (A.D. 1208- 1224), when Guixing founded a medicinal patch in Anting Town, Jiading, it was dyed green with grey medicine; Stay dry, remove the ashes, and then blue and white, with figures, flowers and birds, poems of various colors, and fill the curtains. "Medicinal patch, also known as watering cloth, is the predecessor of today's folk blue printed cloth. This printed fabric is an important clothing fabric for folk women.
Embroidery technology was highly developed in the Song Dynasty. Clothes unearthed from Huangsheng Tomb of Southern Song Dynasty in Fuzhou are generally embroidered along the border. The theme is mainly sketching flowers, combining all kinds of flowers all year round into "one-year scenery" flowers, which also has great influence on future generations.
Fashion patterns popular in Song Dynasty
In Song Dynasty, silk was the main clothing fabric, and the varieties were brocade, embroidered silk, yarn, silk and silk. Chengdu Shu Brocade is the most famous brocade in Song Dynasty, and its patterns include eight halos, six halos and carpets with combined geometric patterns. Geometric flowers inserted sunflower, four golden eagle clusters, big nest horse carpet, snowflake carpet road, double nest cloud goose and so on. Music in the World with artifacts as its theme (Lantern Brocade written by Wen Yanbo to flatter Renzong Zhang Guifei in Chengdu). The theme of characters is suitable for male flowers. Zhen Hong Chuanhua Peak, Zhen Hong Baihua Peacock, Green Cao Rui Cloud, etc. Ruyi Peony, Hibiscus, heavy lotus, True Red Cherry, Zhen Hong Moist, etc. Lions, Yunyan, Gastrodia elata, goldfish, Heng, Xiang Luan and so on. Geometric patterns include turtle pattern, meandering water, palindrome, square victory, ripple, persimmon, jujube flower and so on. The costume patterns in Song Dynasty were influenced by the flower-and-bird paintings outlined by the Academy of Painting, which tended to be realistic and closely composed. The pattern style of the Song Dynasty is completely different from that of the Tang Dynasty, but its influence on the Ming and Qing Dynasties is very obvious, and almost a pattern has been formed from the theme to the modeling techniques.
In the Song Dynasty, due to the weakness of national strength and the emptiness of financial resources, a large number of tapestries were used to pay tribute or trade to foreigners, and most of the clothing fabrics of domestic rulers were silk yarns, such as objects unearthed from Hejiaso's tomb in Hengyang, Hunan, Zhou Yu's tomb in Maolu, Jintan, Jiangsu, and Huangsheng's tomb in Fucang Mountain, a northern suburb of Fuzhou. In the early years of the Northern Song Dynasty, the royal guards of honor in the Song Dynasty all wore gorgeous costumes, and later they switched to printing, and the printing process was prohibited from being used by the people. However, Tang, the bureaucratic landlord of the Song Dynasty, was forbidden to open a colored silk shop in Wuzhou, his hometown, and use public funds to carve printing plates for printing and dyeing. There is also a famous engraving and printing artist Li in Luoyang Xianxiangfang, who is called "Hua". Book collection (68 1 volume) Suzhou textile famous objects talk about the Southern Song Dynasty Ningzong Jiading period (A.D. 1208- 1224), when Guixing founded a medicinal patch in Anting Town, Jiading, it was dyed green with grey medicine; Stay dry, remove the ashes, and then blue and white, with figures, flowers and birds, poems of various colors, and fill the curtains. "Medicinal patch, also known as watering cloth, is the predecessor of today's folk blue printed cloth. This printed fabric is an important clothing fabric for folk women.
Embroidery technology was highly developed in the Song Dynasty. Clothes unearthed from Huangsheng Tomb of Southern Song Dynasty in Fuzhou are generally embroidered along the border. The theme is mainly sketching flowers, combining all kinds of flowers all year round into "one-year scenery" flowers, which also has great influence on future generations.
Song dynasty silk
Silk fabrics in Song Dynasty mainly include natural and vivid flowers with broken branches and a large number of Hua Niaowen, with elegant and soft colors and realistic patterns. The popularity of silk Hua Niaowen in Song Dynasty was closely related to the rise of flower-and-bird painting in the same period. Judging from the artifacts unearthed from Fuzhou Tomb and Zhou Tomb in De 'an, Jiangxi Province, peony, hibiscus, camellia, rose, begonia, bamboo, plum blossom, day lily and other plants are the mainstream in this period. Generally, peony and hibiscus are the main forms, with smaller flower buds such as plum blossom and begonia, and all kinds of broken flowers are filled in the leaves, forming the peculiar effect of mosaic.
The color matching of silk patterns in Song Dynasty was also deeply influenced by the aesthetic thought of the times and coordinated with the realistic patterns. The overall color tends to be light, soft, elegant and solemn. Bright colors such as bright red, bright blue and bright orange commonly used in the Tang Dynasty are no longer popular. But with shades or brown, brown, lotus root and other complex colors, with white, extremely elegant.
The varieties of weaving in Song Dynasty were also different from those in Tang Dynasty. Light and breathable Luo fabric was a popular silk fabric at that time. The production of China Luo fabric reached its peak in the Song Dynasty. In the hot summer, especially in the south, Romania has become the most commonly used high-grade silk fabric in people's daily life. 1975, more than 50 pieces of clothes, mostly jacquard products, were unearthed from Zhou Yu's tomb in Jintan County, Jiangsu Province. In the same year, more than 200 pieces of different kinds of Luo fabrics were unearthed in Fuzhou tomb. Their Luo structure includes single warp, three warp and four warp that cannot be twisted, as well as various flowers with plain and twill flowers. Four-warp leno is the highest peak of China's ancient weaving technology, and the weaving technology of this leno fabric has long been lost, which has become the historical mystery of China's silk technology.
Vivid and vivid patterns, light and soft colors, woven on the light and thin gauze fabric, make the silk in Song Dynasty present a pleasant breath of flowers and birds.
Women in the Song Dynasty bound their feet,
Farmers' Life in Song Dynasty
It is the poor in rural families who can maintain a monthly eclipse of 2 liters or less than 100 yuan a day; A family of ten can maintain a 2-liter eclipse, and rural families spend one month on self-sufficient floors 15 yuan; A family of ten who can maintain a 2-liter eclipse and spend more than 1 a day is a well-off or well-off household in rural areas. The living standard of third-class households in rural areas is generally estimated as: a family of ten, with an eclipse of 2 liters per month and a monthly expenditure of 15-30. The third-class households in rural areas in Song Dynasty can be regarded as standard yeomen. The standard is that the food they produce can only be self-sufficient. Although such families have a little surplus, they will not sell it in the market unless they have to. According to Wang Sou's words, the property of the fourth-class household in Anxi, Hebei Province "can only be twenty-four" (3), so what is the property of the third-class household? This can be inferred from the boundary between third-class households and the poor and the lower limit of service payment. In the second year of Zongshen Yuanfeng (A.D. 1079), this volume is 299, with five printed articles saying: "Zhao Liang's Fang Lu Guo Hu's service money is exempted according to the rural regulations. At the beginning of the imperial edict, the number of households in China was less than 2,000, and the number of households in rural areas was less than 5,000. After the imperial edict was renewed, the countryside followed the law of excluding possessions from house to house. The most important thing to mention is that rural people are inferior.
We have a general outline of the third-class rural households in the Song Dynasty:/kloc-families with about 0/0 people, 100 mu of land, and a relatively self-sufficient life. With good weather and no natural or man-made disasters, these people live in peace and contentment. The following two examples reflect the real life of third-class households in rural areas. "Three Records" Renzhi Volume 6 "Huangpi Woman in Red" contains: "Li, a villager in Taigong, Huangpi County, Huangzhou, has a chestnut outside the door. On the day of early summer, both men and women in his family were born, and only two girls kept the house. " It seems that this family has enough labor. During the busy farming season, all the energy-saving workers went to the fields, and the girls who couldn't do heavy work when they were young were not idle, staying at home and cooking for their families. For those who have less labor, they have to hire short-term workers to ensure that they don't miss sowing or harvesting during the busy farming season. For example, "In the spring of two years, Wu, a native of Jinxi, was twenty-nine years old, planting rice and writing silk robes from his mother, saying,' Transplanting rice tomorrow, asking for money, and hiring a husband to work and eat'". The original intention of this example is to tell the story of Wu Jiujiu's unfilial, but in fact, Wu Jiaqiong's pawn money is not enough. Because it is unreasonable to hire people with money. His land is not too small, otherwise Wu will not plan to hire Huang Wei. In addition, there are "more than ten mulberries" in his family, which should be regarded as a third-class family with no worries about food and clothing. It is worth noting that you should not think that short-term workers are hired because the main family is so rich that you don't have to work by yourself, but because there is less labor at home. The main family should also work together.
In the Song Dynasty, the family money of third-class households (including the real estate value of land and real estate) was higher than that of 50 yuan in poor villages and 200 yuan in rich villages.
The self-sufficient economy of the third-class households in the Song Dynasty was quite fragile, so we might as well calculate it. For a family of 10 and 100 mu, the main crops are nothing more than wheat, chestnut and rice. Although the yield per mu of rice is slightly higher than that of wheat, the per capita land ownership in the south is much larger than that in the north, so we can harvest 200 stones per mu, including taxes and seeds. About half, leaving 100 stone; In terms of food and clothing, six able-bodied people will have an eclipse of 2 liters, and four young people will have an eclipse of 1 liter, with an annual consumption of about 60 stones, which can save food in the second half of the year. This is the result of an ideal state, that is, good weather, no natural and man-made disasters, 100 mu of farmland is all fertile and the yield per mu is the same. If we consider some practical situations, for example, six strong people are healthy people, and each person can eat ordinary people's daily meals for one meal; (1) In addition, like weddings and funerals, it also consumes a lot of food. Therefore, in real life, for the third-class farmers as middle peasants, if they want to have savings, they must rely on thrift. As the above-mentioned curtain official said, "Eat meat early, drink soup late, and use 1000 yuan every day", so I'm afraid it's only the New Year. In fact, in rural areas, it is not only a medium-sized household, but also a general advantage household.
Dare not let go of consumption. Although their family business is huge, they have a large population, and the consumption of people is far greater than the production of grain when the yield per mu is difficult to be greatly improved. This situation not only appeared in the Song Dynasty, but also existed in the pre-modern society of China. For example, Volume II of Lv Kun's "A Record of Real Politics" in the Ming Dynasty said: "Today's people live. People with land and soil can only spend a year collecting 300 to 200 stone grains, food, clothes and spilled hands and feet. It will take a year to collect 150 to 100 stone next year. Work hard to go up, save money, and never lack food and clothing, but it will not be infinite. " Obviously, a good farmer is like this: it's ok to eat and wear warm clothes, but if you want to "have unlimited scenery", it's hard for their business to last long. In addition, the situation in Zhangbei County, Hebei Province in the 1930s that we described earlier said: "The landlord's family has a lot of land, a big portal, huge expenses, and it is exhausting." (1) The landlord's family is still like this, and middle-class farmers dare not be extravagant. As for those poor farmers, not to mention luxury, even if they can fill their stomachs every day, I am afraid it will be a big New Year. As Mr. Huang Zongzhi said, this is a typical manifestation of "subsistence agriculture". Such a fragile family economy, regardless of political and natural factors, can ruin a well-fed family if one person in the family is seriously ill. There is no doubt that such a family will not be "rich" or "well-fed" for a long time even without the influence of other political and social factors. We noticed that in the pre-modern rural society of China, a new group of rich people just stood up, the old group of rich people fell down, and so on. In the past, many scholars used the impact of commodity economy, the defects of political system and the irrationality of economic system to explain this phenomenon. Of course, it has its credible side, but I think these may not be the most fundamental things. Because for the "quasi-farmers" who are born in peasant families, familiar with rural social conditions and have personal experience, there is no doubt that the fragility of some contemporary peasant families still exists.