Selected essays published in leisure time.

Leisure is one of Li Yu's important works. The content includes drama theory, diet, architecture, gardening, health preservation and so on. It enjoys a high reputation in China's traditional and elegant culture, and is known as the encyclopedia of ancient life art, ranking first among the "Eight Wonders of China Celebrities".

The "Drinking Department" in Random Feelings is Li Yu's diet monograph. He advocates pursuing exquisite diet in frugality and enjoying life in plainness. Its dietary principles can be summarized as a 24-word formula, that is, attach importance to vegetables, respect frugality, respect real taste, be light, avoid greasy food, stress cleanliness, kill life carefully and seek food benefits. This shows that China traditional culture pursues the beauty of diet. The leisurely words are fresh and meaningful, and the narrative is moving. After reading it, what is left is the fragrance on the teeth and cheeks, with endless aftertaste. Mr. Zhou Zuoren highly praised this book and thought that the only regret of this book was that it failed to cover the lives of the elderly, otherwise there would be wonderful theories. In a word, Random Thoughts not only edifies and influences a large number of modern prose masters such as Zhou Zuoren, Liang Shiqiu and Lin Yutang, but also creates a beautiful writing of modern life, which is still of great reference value for us to improve the quality of life and create an artistic living atmosphere today. ……

The way of sound, silk is not as good as bamboo, and bamboo is not as good as meat, because it is gradually natural. I call it the way of eating, not as good as meat, and meat is not as good as vegetables, so naturally it is closer. Herbivores (1), archaic, people can alienate fat, eating vegetable ferns is sweet, and the belly garden does not make sheep lame (2). Or people ③ and Tang Yu's belly ④, which is consistent with advocating antiques. It is absurd to say that Buddhism is true and Buddhism is true because those who complain about the world abandon the good name and do not live there. I compiled a volume "Drinking", in which meat comes first, vegetables come first, frugality comes first, and retro comes first; Those who value killing and cherish life, their thoughts are here, they can't bear it, and they can't forget it.

To annotate ...

1 herbivore: take grass as clothing and wood as food.

(2) The garden in the belly will not make the sheep limp: the sheep represents meat. Don't let the food in your stomach be trampled by the meat.

③: Fu, one of the "Huang San" in ancient legends.

④ Tang Yu: Tang Yao and Yu Shun are both "Five Emperors" in ancient legends.

bamboo shoots

On the beauty of food, it is clear, clean, fragrant and crisp. I don't know where the beauty lies. Only one word is fresh that can live on meat. "Ji" said: "Be willing to accept peace and be chosen for nothing." (1) it is rarely a place where incense comes from. This kind of worship is the old bow garden of mountain monks and wild people. There are contacts between the land and the city, and there are selling vegetables and living with ladies-in-waiting.

However, he grows vegetables, regardless of the urban mountains and forests, and whoever has a garden next to his house has fun picking and cooking. As for one of the bamboo shoots, it should have broken ground in the deep mountains and forests, and the products produced in the city are delicious, which is the final meaning of bamboo shoots. This dish is the first, fat and tender, not comparable. However, if bamboo shoots are cooked together, they will be filled with a reed. If people stop eating bamboo shoots and leave meat behind, then meat is fish and bamboo shoots are bear's paws. Buy it in the city, but what about the diggers in the mountains?

There are many ways to eat bamboo shoots, and you can't know the history. Please sum it up in two words, saying, "boiled water is suitable for fat pork." For example, people in Zhaizhai (2) eat bamboo shoots. If they are mixed with other things and sesame oil, the old taste is delicious, but the real interest of bamboo shoots is gone. Cook until white, add a little soy sauce; Everything from beauty to beauty is conducive to going your own way, and so is this kind of thing. With meat, cows, sheep, chickens, ducks and other things are not suitable, only suitable for tapirs, but also suitable for fat. Fat but not greasy, fat can be sweet. If it tastes sweet as bamboo shoots, it is not sweet, but it will be fresh. Remove the grease when cooking, that is, don't store too much juice. It is good to leave half of the clear soup. The only thing that needs to be reconciled is vinegar and wine. This kind of bamboo shoot system is also very popular.

Bamboo shoots are things, not only for their own use, but also for their own beauty. All foods, regardless of meat and vegetables, should be used for blending. Bamboo shoots in vegetables and licorice in medicinal materials are essential things, so all tastes are fresh, but its dregs should not be used, but its semen should be used. A frothy person is good at quickstep dancing. Whenever there is bamboo shoot soup, they can't stay. Make up every time you cook. People who eat know the freshness of other things, but they don't know that there are such fresh things.

All the foods contained in materia medica are not good for people, and those who are good may not be good for people. There's nothing better. Dongpo said: "Eating without meat is better than living without bamboo. No meat makes people thin, and no bamboo makes people vulgar. " I don't know whether it can cure vulgarity or thinness, but there is a difference between bamboo and bamboo.

To annotate ...

(1) Accept harmony for nothing: It comes from the Book of Rites, which means that sweet things are easy to taste and white things are easy to color.

Ruzhai people: people who eat vegetarian food. Ru: Eat.

Mushroom ①

Seeking the freshest and most beautiful things is beyond bamboo shoots, but what is it? Mushrooms are things, rootless and rootless, suddenly born, covering mountains and rivers and forming. However, there is no tangible body, and everything that has a body must have dross, neither dross nor body. A thing without a body is still alive. People who eat this food still suck the breath of mountains, rivers and plants, and there is no one who is not beneficial to others.

It is poisonous and can kill people, so the cloud of Materia Medica goes away by snakes and insects. Yu Yu: Otherwise. Mushroom big geometry, snakes and insects can do it? Extremely weak and fragile, unable to carry! There are snake worms under the cover and mushrooms on them, which are suitable for poisonous gas, so they can harm people. Poison gas will harm people, and clearing virtual gas will benefit people. The original law recognized by the world is the most suitable food unless it is toxic. Vegetarianism is good, especially if accompanied by a little meat food. The fragrance of mushrooms is limited, while the taste of juice is endless.

To annotate ...

Mushroom: Mushroom, a non-toxic edible plant, such as fragrant shavings and mushrooms.

( 1)

Mushrooms on land and caves in water are pure and wonderful things. It is called "Simei soup" with two flavors as soup, supplemented by crab roe and fish. He said: "From time to time, there is no place to go!"

To annotate ...

Dungeon: also known as "water shield" and "water sunflower", it is an aquatic perennial herb. Young leaves collected in spring and summer can be used as a "dungeon" and taste delicious. Yuan Zhonglang in the Ming Dynasty wrote: "Its roots are like lotus, its leaves are full of money at the beginning, and its branches are like coral and as thin as antlers. It is as cold as ice, like white glue, attached to the branches and leaves, and the clear liquid drips cold. Its taste is fragrant and tender, slightly like fish marrow and crab fat, but it is much lighter. The taste changed in half a day, but it disappeared in one day. Compared with litchi, it is particularly delicate and crisp. "

vegetables

Cooking methods in the world can be called strange, from fresh to pickled sauce and wax, all of which are wonderful. For the sake of beauty, I feel very puzzled that I don't pay attention to starting from the root. What's the matter? There is a character that says, "Pick fresh and wash clean." The theory of service freshness has been mentioned in the previous article.

The cleanest vegetable food is bamboo shoots, mushrooms and bean sprouts; The dirtiest is the vegetables grown at home. When fertilizing, you must water them with roots and leaves. Picking with water, picking with food, during which there are many people who can't ask. The vegetable washer just soaked in water, and it was over. Those who are familiar with filth can go, but those who are dry can't. Can you count the accumulated feces in an instant? Therefore, washing vegetables should be done properly and serve people. It is better to wash vegetables with lazy and impatient people than to wash them yourself.

The method of washing vegetables should be put in water for a long time, and it will be soaked for a long time, which is easy to walk; Wash the leaves with a brush. Only when the brush is high and low can it be achieved and thoroughly cleaned. If so, the essence of the dish is pure. Seasoning can be added after purification, and everything can be done manually. Otherwise, you have to reconcile with filth first. Although it has the fragrance of a hundred harmony, it can be comparable to the smell of a week. Hey, it's hard for rich and powerful people to keep them from eating dirty things!

There are many kinds of vegetables, among which the yellow bud is the most prominent. This dish was collected from Beijing and produced in Ansu ②. It is called "Ansu dish" and is the first product. Each plant can weigh several kilograms, and the taste of meat can be forgotten. If you have to think twice, what else is there besides cress under white? Since I moved to Baimen, I have to think about it every time I eat vegetables and grapes. Eat bamboo shoots, eat chicken beans and think about Wuling. The beauty of things is unforgettable, but who is suitable for restaurant delivery?

The color of the dish is the strangest, but if it is not contained in the compendium of materia medica and food records, so is the Nostoc flagelliforme made by Xiqin. Give it to Qin Ke, pass it on to the princes in the fortress, and one day a fat cart will be sent. When you see something in the pit, you just send a roll, which is ridiculous. I'll leave it to my servant. The servant said, "Otherwise. This thing is also the money from the group office. " Asking the natives is called Nostoc flagelliforme. Soak in boiling water and mix with ginger vinegar, which is twice as delicious as lotus root silk and antlers. It is strange to bring back the reimbursed guests, which means that Jane has never seen them in her mistakes. This product is located in Hexi ④, and its value is very cheap. Everything that suits Qin is fighting for foreign things. Because it is cheap, there are few valuable things. How do you find it? Nostoc flagelliforme has arrived in Jiangnan, which is also a once-in-a-lifetime blessing.

To annotate ...

(1) Starting from the root cause: braking; Start, pull the brakes and the car starts to run. It is the same as "starting from the root", which means that things have just begun. This refers to the first step of cooking: choosing vegetables and washing them.

② An Su: County name in Ming Dynasty, now xushui county, Hebei Province.

Wuling: the name of an ancient county, located in Changde City, Hunan Province.

(4) Hexi: the name of Fangzhen Town in Tang Dynasty, where Liangzhou (now Wuwei, Gansu Province) is located, and its jurisdiction is equivalent to Hexi Corridor in Gansu Province today.

Cut melon, fish and yam ①

Melon, eggplant and taro are all things, and the fruit of vegetables is also real. In fact, it is not just a dish, but also a meal. Adding a basket of vegetables can save a few people and everything. One thing can be used for two purposes. Why not? Buying this for the poor is the same as buying millet. However, there are different ways to eat. Boiled wax gourd and loofah should not be too raw, and boiled wax gourd and wax gourd should not be too cooked. Cooking eggplant with sauce vinegar instead of salt; You can't cook taro without anything. Cover taro itself without taste, and borrow other things to make it taste. Yam is not suitable for self-use, and its beauty can be presented without oil, salt, sauce and vinegar. It is also a common material in vegetables and foods.

To annotate ...

1 Zanthoxylum bungeanum: Zanthoxylum bungeanum, also known as "Pingpu", commonly known as "gourd"; Taro is commonly known as "taro" and "taro".

Onions, garlic and leeks

There are three kinds of onion, garlic and leek, and the food tastes the heaviest. Those who can charm people's teeth and cheeks are also toon heads; Vegetables can pollute people's teeth, cheeks and stomach, and so can leeks. Toona sinensis head knows its fragrance and eats less, while onion, garlic and leek know its taste and love it. Why? Although the smell of Toona sinensis is fragrant and light, it is not as strong as onion, garlic and leek. If you are strong, go for it, and if you don't give up, you are willing to accept it; Light is the heritage of the world, and it is recommended that it be accepted by fragrance. I understand the difficulty of being a good person in the world by eating and drinking. Never eat three things in your life, let alone Toona sinensis. What is the so-called "between foreigners and interests"?

There are also differences in treating three things. Never eat garlic; Although onions are rich food, they are also heard as reconciliation; Leek is banned from its end, but it can't be stopped. The first bud is not special, smelly and fragrant, just like its childhood heart.

Small carrot

Raw radish shredded as a side dish, with vinegar and other things. It is most appropriate to use porridge, but if you hate it after eating it, it will make people disgusted. I also have the responsibility to taste and accept these, and know that people are tired of them. Therefore, it is also heartbreaking to eat. However, seeing this thing is very different from onion and garlic. It stinks when it is raw, but it doesn't stink when it is cooked. Like a villain at first sight, a dead gentleman. Although there is a little mistake, it should be forgiven and should not be banned.

Mustard juice ①

Does this dish have the properties of ginger and cinnamon? Yes, so is spicy mustard. Mustard seeds for spicy sauce are great, and the older they get, the hotter they get. There's nothing wrong with mixing things with this. If the eater meets the right person and hears the theory of death, the sleepy person will be bored, and the bored person will use it as an excuse, and the food will be delicious. Give every food a necessity, and I won't leave Jiang Ye.

To annotate ...

1 mustard juice: mustard, mustard vegetables, whose stems are spicy and can be made into mustard powder and mustard juice.

2 argument: honest speech. Kuang, integrity. Feeding people depends on whole grains. If you let the sky produce grain instead of other things, you will get fat and live longer. There is no danger of getting sick and life is uneven. Trying to watch birds peck millet fish and drink water depends on one thing for a living, which is unheard of, and some people drink omnivorous food for drinking wine. It is the death of birds and fish, the death of people, the death of diseases and the death of suicide. Just not eating one thing is the way to live a long life. Unfortunately, people are misled by subtlety and shyness. If they eat one more thing, they will be hurt by one more thing. For a while, they are forbidden to eat, and for a while they are indifferent. His illness and death were caused by overeating and greed. This inhuman mistake is the wrong ear of heaven. At the beginning of the universe, I didn't expect this. The original intention is to benefit the crowd, but it is not shallow! However, if people want to love their own life, they should not only eat one thing, but also take one thing as king. Too much wine and meat can't be eaten, even if it is harmful, it is not very strong.

To annotate ...

(1) five grains: five grains, there are many sayings in ancient times, generally referring to rice, millet, millet, wheat and beans.

2 Exquisite: Fine and beautiful. Shy, rich and beautiful.

rice gruel

Porridge and rice are two things that are daily necessities. Everyone knows that * * * is successful on the machine. How do you use more successful people to make speeches? However, if there are two languages that are tight, but smart women can't speak them, they might as well drink them instead. It is also simple and beneficial for others to let the daughter-in-law handed down from aunt and mother say a thousand words in two sentences.

Let's start with the rough: rice's serious illness is both internal and external, either rotten or burnt; The serious illness of porridge is deposited on the supernatant, just like paste, so the temperature is uneven, but only the most clumsy people have it. People who can't cook are nothing. But there are also soft, dry and wet, chewed by people, with the beauty of porridge and rice, and without the taste of diet. What's the disease? It is said that increasing or decreasing the amount of water is not always harmful. When he was nervous, he said, "Don't add porridge water, don't reduce rice soup." If the meter uses geometry, then the water uses geometry with a certain degree. If the doctor takes medicine, it will only take one and a half minutes for seven or eight minutes. If the intention is to increase or decrease, the medicine has no taste, that is, the medicine does not exist and is invalid.

People who are not good at cooking often use uneven water, and cooking often suffers more. If you have more, you will be forced to go, and if you have less, you will add. I didn't know that rice semen existed in water. Those who are forced to go to rice soup will not go to rice soup, and there is rice semen. Semen is gone, rice is dregs, and rice is delicious? The porridge is cooked, the rice is sold, and the rice becomes wine. Considering that it is too thick, use water, not the water in porridge, but the water in wine. When water enters, wine turns into dregs. Is its taste acceptable?

Therefore, the people who are fed by the good Lord (1) must be limited to a few when scooping water, and the spoons cannot be increased or the water drops can not be reduced, and then the porridge is heated and stirred evenly, so that the porridge is rice, and it is not common to seek common ground.

Banquets are sometimes eaten, which will sell better than what you eat at home. How to use it skillfully? Yue: Just to make it fragrant. Give the young woman a taste, preset a flower dew, water it as soon as the rice is cooked, water it a little, mix well and put it in a bowl. The eater owed Gu Mi, but he knew it was a different kind of grain, but he didn't know it was an ordinary grain. This rule has been kept secret for a long time, and it was reported today. Those who practice this method don't have to pour all the pots, but it will consume a lot of dew. This method won't work in the World Bank. Don't water another corner with a lamp, it's enough for the guests. Rose, fragrant rafter and osmanthus are three kinds of dew. Do not use roses. With the scent of roses, people who eat it can easily tell that it is not owned by the valley. There are three kinds of roses, fragrant rafters and sweet-scented osmanthus, which are similar to those with the smell of grains, making it difficult to distinguish them, so they are used.

To annotate ...

① Feedback: The Book of Changes Home: "The sky is full of joy and the food is full." Refers to a woman who is in charge of eating and drinking at home.

soup

Soup is another name for soup. The name of soup is elegant, close to ancient times; People who say soup instead of soup care about quaint names, but they are serious and seem to be designed for banquets. However, I don't know that soup is a thing. People who share it with rice should have soup. Without soup, rice can't be served. This is a way to save money without extravagance.

The ancients drank wine and had food. It is absurd to change the next meal into "luxury meal" in the secular world. The predecessors regarded reading history as the next thing to drink, and the "down" of drinking also came from the "mansion".

When people mention dishes, the word "next meal" has a different meaning. Yaozhuan is a tool for food stagnation, not for eating. People who eat rice see that beauty comes first, but they hesitate to go down. What if they don't eat?

The rice is still in the boat, and the soup is still water; The boat is in the beach, not in the water, the rice is in the throat, not in the soup, and its trend is also one. And the expensive food can disappear; It is easy to understand why rice disappears with soup.

Therefore, people who are good at keeping in good health cannot eat without soup; A good writer cannot live without soup. People who feast to save money must live without soup; Even if the guests want to eat, they will not leave, and there will be no soup. What is this? Soup can be eaten, but it can also be eaten. Wuyue zhangyan (2), soup should be served at every meal, which is great. I call it self-care, and it's wonderful. It is better to eat without food than to eat without soup. There is soup to eat, even if there is no side dish, it can make the feeding sip like a stream; When you eat without soup, even before it is delicious, sometimes you can't eat it.

Give a poor man a family of half a hundred people, and those who are hungry and sometimes don't keep the sun will follow suit.

To annotate ...

(1) The predecessors took reading history as the drinking object: The Whip Shadow of Long Wen contains: Su Shunqin, a poet in the Northern Song Dynasty, drank after reading Hanshu. See Wine Classics, Wine Art and Wine Prescription.

② wuyue: the name of an ancient country, which now refers to Zhejiang and Jiangsu.

(3) When you are hungry, you don't feel hungry: it means that when you are not full, you won't be hungry all day. "Hunger" and "hunger" both mean to be hungry if you are not satisfied.

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