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Erythrina flowers bloom, a low-key treasure city: Quanzhou
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People from Shizhou: Quanzhou | China’s world maritime trade center during the Song and Yuan Dynasties
1. Transportation
If you need to fly to Jinjiang Airport from other places, the current price is cabbage, and you can get it for more than 600 round trip. Jinjiang Airport is very close to Quanzhou, and you can get to the city center by taxi for more than 30 yuan.
There are various transportation options in the city, so you can choose from them. The "Xiaobai", a Quanzhou-style battery car that is parked casually, is available for 2 yuan per ride and goes around the ancient city.
I didn’t see any bicycles. There are electric bicycles, but they are rare in the core tourist areas of the ancient city. They are all over the streets in Jinjiang.
For out-of-town travelers, the most convenient thing is the bicycles provided by the Quanzhou Municipal Government. There are many stations and you can borrow and return them at any time. The first hour is free, just scan the QR code on WeChat to open it. It’s not too convenient to ride a bicycle around the ancient streets and alleys.
Quanzhou public bicycles
No matter how far away you are, just take Didi or take a taxi, and it will take seconds. Take orders. Of course, you can also take the bus, just swipe Alipay or UnionPay.
Between ancient towns and cities, you need to go to the Passenger Transport Center to take a bus. For example, in Chongwu Ancient Town, you can buy tickets as you go, and it takes about an hour by minibus. It should be noted that there are two different routes. One is along the coast, with unlimited scenery. It is recommended to take it when you go there; the other is via Luoyang Bridge, which is a little farther. Choose this route to visit Luoyang Bridge on the way back.
The route along the route is written on the outside of the minibus, so be sure to read it carefully before getting on the bus. The master is driving very hard, please fasten your seat belt.
By the way, Alipay diamond member benefits: free airport pick-up within 50 kilometers, all are good cars. There is also a fast lane for airport security, which is a bit tasteless. If you want to fly from Daxing, you can buy Daxing Airport Line tickets at half price. You can also search the VIP lounge at the airport for surprises.
2. Attractions
"See Xi'an underground, see Quanzhou above ground" has become the slogan of the city of Quanzhou . Although this sentence was made up by old man Shizhe, it is also very appropriate.
Quanzhou governs 4 districts: Licheng, Fengze, Luojiang, and Quangang, 3 county-level cities: Jinjiang, Shishi, and Nan'an, Hui'an, Anxi, Yongchun, and De Huahua and Kinmen counties. It can also be seen from the map that the place is very large and rich in tourism resources.
After getting off the plane, it is highly recommended that the first stop is Jinjiang Wudian City, which is only a few kilometers away from the airport.
The family temple in the traditional neighborhood of Wudian City
I was shocked at first sight. The first thing that catches the eye is the ancient building with graceful curves and brilliant colors. It has the unique southern Fujian characteristics of "imperial palace" red bricks, Western-style buildings that combine Chinese and Western styles, and various characteristic buildings from the Ming and Qing Dynasties, the Republic of China to modern times. Under the blue sky and white clouds, the roof ridges are light and stretched, a harmonious and subtle beauty, which is completely different from the straight and dignified architectural style in the north.
Then enter the ancient city of Quanzhou.
That is where most tourists go, Licheng District. This ancient city alone is worth spending time visiting.
Guanyue Temple at night
Most of the tourist attractions are concentrated on West Street, Zhongshan Road and Tumen Street nearby. It is also recommended to stay nearby for accommodation. There are many B&Bs hidden in the streets and alleys.
The West Street Bell Tower is the center of the city, home to the famous Kaiyuan Temple and its twin towers. By the way, remember to go to the West Street Visitor Service Center and go up to the rooftop. You can overlook West Street and the Twin Towers. There are also many props specially prepared for tourists to take photos, which is very considerate.
There are many things to see in Kaiyuan Temple, the so-called "six special ones" and "eight auspiciousness".
There are many ancient alleys on both sides of West Street. The one not to be missed is Jingting Alley, named after a well and a tower. The centering tower is in the yard of a house, but the old lady was very friendly. Seeing us watching outside the house, she took the initiative to invite us in to visit and take photos.
In the alley near East Street, there is the quieter Chengtian Temple. There are many fewer tourists. It has an elegant Zen atmosphere, which is what I expected from the temple.
If you have time, you can go to Xia Chongfu Temple. Together with Kaiyuan Temple and Chengtian Temple, it is known as the "Three Major Jungles in Quanzhou".
Yuanmiao Temple seems to be ignored by tourists. In fact, it is the first Taoist temple in Quanzhou and is very interesting.
Yuanmiao Temple
There are Yuemiao Temple, Qingjing Temple and Confucian Temple on Tumen Street. The Confucian Temple is a large-scale building. The architectural forms of the Song, Yuan, Ming and Qing Dynasties can be found here, and it is worth visiting.
The gate of the Confucian Temple
There is also the Cao'an Temple built in the Song Dynasty - the only remaining Manichaean temple in my country. It is also the only existing Manichaean temple site in the world.
Mani Guang Buddha Statue in Cao'an
This is the ancient city hiking route recommended by Quanzhou Tourism Bureau, 6 kilometers and 1 day Itinerary:
Fuwen Temple → Qingjing Temple → Guanyue Temple → Houcheng Street → Cultural Palace → Jiuyi Street → Nanjun Lane → Chengtian Lane → Zhenfu Lane → Zhongshan Middle Road → Tongzheng Alley → Huitong Alley → Suqingmen → Jingting Alley → Centering Tower → West Street → Jiuguanyi → Gurong Alley → Flower Alley → Haogouqian → Jinyu Alley → Xucuocheng → Old Liyuan Theater (Nanfang Foreign Language School) Zongzhengsi Site) → Sanchao Alley → Kaiyuan Temple → Luxiacheng → Pei Alley → Shoes Alley → Xinjie → Xiaochenghuang → Weiyuan Tower → Zhongshan Park
There are three in Quanzhou The unique museums are all unique in the country. If you have time, you might as well visit it. Overseas Transportation History Museum, Fujian-Taiwan Relationship Museum, Quanzhou Museum.
Overseas Transportation History Museum
A little further away, you can see from the map a large green area, which is Qingyuan Mountain . A famous Taoist mountain with a long-standing statue of Laozi.
Quanshan is definitely a place not to be missed. If you think the 70 yuan ticket is too expensive, you might as well get up early like the locals and take the first bus No. 28 (6 :40) Take the bus all the way to Tianhu Station and then all the way down, and the ticket is free.
Qingyuan Mountain overlooks Quanzhou, with West Lake Park in the distance
Don’t forget to have morning tea at the outdoor teahouse on the top of the mountain , have a hearty breakfast before going down the mountain, the people of Quanzhou should not be too comfortable.
After seeing the statue of Laozi, I walked out of the gate and took a taxi straight to the South Shaolin Temple. Friends who are interested in Islam may wish to stop by Lingshan to visit the Holy Tomb. They all belong to one large area.
Luoyang Bridge is one of the four famous bridges in ancient times. It was built by Cai Xiang, a calligrapher of the Northern Song Dynasty. It stands on stone slabs that have lasted for nearly a thousand years. Can you imagine? If you still have time, go for a walk on Anping Bridge, which is said to be "no bridge in the world is this long". It is definitely a worthwhile trip.
There are many ancient towns around Quanzhou. Chongwu is a relatively popular one. I personally feel disappointed. If you are short on time, there is no need to go.
Chongwu’s seaside
It is said that Yongning Ancient Town is worth a visit. You can see the Oyster Shell House in Xunpu Village The seafood girl wearing a floral headband, but due to time constraints, we can only talk about it next time.
3. Food
When we talk about food, I start to drool while looking at the screen. There are many kinds of Quanzhou food, and there are many time-honored brands in the streets. Although some of it feels average, it definitely has special features that you can't taste elsewhere.
People in southern Fujian call it ancient flavor. Such delicacies have been featured on various food travel programs "A Bite of China" and "Home Far Away". Recently, the hot sisters have also formed a group to come here.
The first stop of "Sister's Journey of Love"
The most distinctive thing is the noodle paste and vinegared pork , large intestine or various seafood, with a fried dough stick as standard, a big bowl in the morning will satisfy you all day long. The more famous stores include Shuimen Guo Tsai Main Store, Houcheng Noodle Paste, Tingting Noodle Paste, West Street Laoji Noodle Paste, etc.
Noodle paste has a different meaning to Quanzhou people. It is not just for breakfast, but throughout the whole day, from breakfast to midnight snack.
Quanzhou people love to eat beef, and there are steakhouses everywhere, but this steak is not that steak, but an improved version mixed with Nanyang characteristics.
The steaks of Ah Qiu Steakhouse
Haochengcai is the most famous, but I still prefer the taste of Ah Qiu. , especially the bowl of white rice with the slightly spicy steak soup, which is delicious. But Haochengcai’s beef soup is really smooth and tender, and it’s no wonder it’s made by hand.
Haochengcai B set meal
The first time I ate beef soup was at Mass Beef Snacks, and I even lamented the beef with kk How can it be made so smooth and tender? Its oyster omelette is also a must-try.
Oyster Omelette
There is also a Dongxing Beef restaurant, a chain store with a good reputation. I've been there twice and the beef soup is average, significantly different from other restaurants. All kinds of beef trotters, tendons, beef offal, etc. are all good, but my favorite is the dry noodles - the thick black sesame paste and alkaline noodles are intertwined with each other, the water and milk are blended together, and the slightly sweet taste is much better than the hot dry noodles in Wuhan. . You must also order seasonal vegetables. Boil it in boiling water and top it with minced garlic and light soy sauce. It is very fragrant. A large portion only costs 8 yuan, which is really good. Fish ball soup is also available.
Speaking of fish balls, we can’t help but mention Cheqiaotou Wen’s Water Ball Shop. If you go to Chongwu Ancient Town, don’t forget to try the fish rolls. Fried and boiled ones taste better than steamed ones.
Ruifang fish rolls at the entrance of the ancient town
In Quanzhou, I ate all the way, eating four, five, six or seven times a day Without duplication.
Fried vinegar pork, peanut soup, fried vegetable cakes, Shihua paste and four fruit soup, fried sea oysters, bamboo shoot jelly, moist cakes, mung bean cakes, pan-fried cakes, Garlic branches, roasted pork rice dumplings, Yuanxiao, taro paste, taro cakes...
My favorite fried vegetable cakes
< p> The bamboo shoot jelly must be mentioned separately. It is not a bamboo shoot or the like, but a sandworm on the seaside. Jinjiang Anhai is the most famous, with a strong taste, similar to small intestine. Along with the sauce, there is no fishy or peculiar smell.
Jellied bamboo shoots
Flat food + meat rice dumplings + peanut soup
< p> Ah Fei Fried Food
After eating greasy fried food, I just had a bowl of local specialty Shihua Paste. This is carefully brewed from the stone flowers found on the seaside rocks and is only found in coastal areas.
Bingzhengtang Shihua Paste
Linji Zhengquanmao Mung Bean Cake can be given as a souvenir to colleagues, it is a classic A pack of mung bean cakes only costs 6 yuan, and they are also available in flavors such as chestnut and taro. Personally I think it's on the sweet side, nothing special. However, the garlic branches are a bit interesting. You can try the fried twists with garlic. Mengji Food is an old store. I bought a bag when I returned to Beijing.
In fact, you don’t need to go too specifically to find those Internet celebrity stores for these snacks. A little away from the scenic spots, you can just find a store patronized by locals and you will not be disappointed. For example, Kangzhuang Manjian Cake in Peixiang is very popular, but deep in the West Street, there is a shop specializing in Manjian Cake. All locals come to buy it. The price is only 1/3 of Kangzhuang’s, and I can’t eat the taste. Come out with the difference.
Of course, some old or word-of-mouth stores that have accumulated over time are still worth visiting, such as Qiaotou Vinegar Pork, Bell Tower Meat Rice Dumplings, Grandma Chen Meat Rice Dumplings, Bingzhengtang Shihua Paste (bi.com) Hongdian Aiah has good ingredients and a wide range of ingredients), Donglai Cabbage Sour, Haisi Golden Phoenix, Yiqing Chicken Feet...
Donglai Cabbage Sour - two slices The sweet and sour pickled white radish is stuffed with crushed peanut candies, etc., which has a unique flavor
Haisi Jinfeng's Yuanxiao has crushed peanuts and sesame in the filling, which can taste the fragrance of lard. Their taro paste is also highly recommended, but the calories are a bit high.
The specialty here is that peanut butter is added to everything. Whether it's barbecue or roasted pork rice dumplings, a spoonful of secret peanut butter is indispensable. Leihuo, who had appeared on "A String of Life", was a bit far away, so I tried a local Tiexia BBQ.
Grandma Chen’s meat rice dumplings, stir evenly before eating
Tiexia BBQ
Yuanfang Xiao Long Bao lives up to its reputation. There are many branches of A Fei Fa Bian Food, but the taste is really average.
The fillings of Yuanfang Xiaolongbao are indeed extraordinary
The local salty rice is also a specialty, and you can eat it in any restaurant. I tasted it in the store and it tasted pretty good. The most surprising thing was that I ate green onion enema for the first time.
Yanzhi Lane Xian Restaurant
I probably had one meal of Stan ginger duck in five days, Tumen Street The main store is the most popular, and there is always a queue for meals. The aroma comes from afar. There is a row of casseroles at the door, which is very spectacular. There is also a local restaurant named Zhong Kee Salt Roasted Muscovy Duck, which is said to be pretty good too.
I heard from a travel friend that there are several good private restaurants in Quanzhou, which are very unique. I have no choice but to try it next time.
It’s worth noting that there are many places to try. After all, time is limited and there are still many restaurants that I haven’t tried yet. You can explore on your own.
4. Reference materials
Website: Quanzhou.com
Books: "The Taste of Quanzhou", "The Ancient City of Quanzhou"
Himalayan Audio Program: Xiaofeng Talks about Quanzhou; Old Li Talks|A senior tour guide takes you to visit Quanzhou
< p>Documentaries: CCTV's "Far Home" One Belt and One Road Episodes 19, 20, and 21; "National Archives" Maritime Silk Road Legend Series 6 Episodes; "General History of China" Episode 73 Maritime Silk Road, Episode 74 Marco Polo and China
5.
Quanzhou is like a southern girl hiding in the deep gate compound, waiting Let you go and have a look.
Thank you all for continuing to pay attention to Uncle Peng and travel around the world with Uncle Peng. Reading, traveling and investing are all under control.