In fact, Hu-style clothes in the Tang Dynasty included ethnic costumes in the western regions and foreign costumes such as India and Persia. During this period, aristocratic women wore Hu-style clothes, which were influenced by Persia from the western regions, Gaochang and Qiuci, and were widely popular from the palace to the people in the early and prosperous Tang Dynasty. They were characterized by wearing a muddy hat, a small sleeve gown with a round neck or lapel that was knee-length, striped pants and half-length feet. Wear a belt around your waist and hang down your belongings
The decorative processing of skirts in the Tang Dynasty is also very particular. The novel Biography of the Old Man in the Tang Dynasty tells that Li, the wife of Cao Liu, a scholar in Yizhou (Chengdu, Sichuan) during the Tianbao period, wore a "yellow silver mud skirt, a five-halo silver mud shirt, and a silver mud purse with a single thread Luo Hongdi". Bai Letian's poem "Poems by my wife on behalf of the opera to congratulate my brother and sister-in-law" reads: "The bowl of gold and silver is for my brother's use, and the skirt of Luo is for her to cut". Silver mud is a decorative pattern painted with silver powder. Qi painting is a colorful hand-painted pattern. In addition, it is more common for skirts to be processed by embroidery, printing, weaving and color alternation.
the Tang dynasty is an era of high political and economic development, prosperous culture and art, and splendid feudal culture. Tang Tongyi saved the chaotic and split state of Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties and Sui Dynasty, established a unified and strong country, developed foreign trade transactions, greatly developed productivity, and enjoyed a long period of prosperity and national security. Especially when the prosperous Tang Dynasty became the center of economic and cultural exchanges among all ethnic groups in Asia, it was the most glorious page in China's cultural history. During this period, Indian and Iranian cultures were absorbed and integrated into Chinese culture, which was fully reflected in murals, stone carvings, sculptures, books, paintings, silk embroidery, pottery figurines and costumes.
from the sui and Tang dynasties, the most obvious feature of China's clothing was the dual-track system. In the big sacrificial ceremony, wear the traditional clothes of the Han people. In normal times, the official uniform of the Tang Dynasty was the Hu suit (Xianbei suit) system.
in the Tang dynasty, the country was unified, the economy was prosperous, the shape was more open, and the costumes became more and more gorgeous. The characteristic of women's wear in Tang Dynasty is the unity of skirt, blouse and shirt. Among women, there is an image of topless and bare arms. On the mural on the east wall of Princess Yongtai's tomb, there is an image of a woman in the Tang Dynasty with a high bun, a bare chest, red silk on her shoulders, a yellow short-sleeved blouse, a long green dress sweeping the floor and a red belt hanging down her waist, thus having a more vivid understanding of "powder chest and a half-hidden suspicion of dark snow" and "wearing a fine grass when sitting, that is, the skirt sweeps away the plum blossoms when walking".
It's not everyone's job to wear a low-cut skirt with a half-exposed chest. In the Tang Dynasty, only people with status could wear open-chested shirts, Princess Yongtai could be half-naked, and singers could be half-naked to please the ruling class, while women in ordinary people's homes were not allowed to be half-naked. At that time, the semi-topless dresses in the Tang Dynasty were somewhat similar to modern western evening dresses, except that the shoulders and back were not allowed to be exposed.
The collars of women's dresses in the Tang Dynasty include round neck, square collar, oblique collar, straight collar and chicken heart collar. Short and long skirts are characterized by a high waist, usually above the waist, and some even tied under the armpits, giving people a pretty and slender feeling.
"Luo Shan leaves are heavily embroidered, and Jinfeng Silver Goose each has a little". Mei Dai won the color of day lily, and the red skirt envied pomegranate flowers. The skirts in the Tang Dynasty are colorful, with red, purple, yellow and green competing for beauty, especially the red skirt. The popularity of red skirts in the streets is not a patent of modern people. As early as the prosperous Tang Dynasty, dance skirts were dyed with pomegranate flowers everywhere.
The "slow-coming, half-revealing skirt" reflects the degree of social openness at that time.
social ideology formed on a certain economic basis. It is an important factor that affects social fashion and clothing. Clothing is the eye rain table of social and political climate. The Tang Dynasty was the heyday of feudal society in China, especially during Zhenguan and Kaiyuan years, when the political climate was relaxed and people lived and worked in peace. Chang 'an, the capital of the Tang Dynasty, was the center of politics, economy and culture at that time, and also the center of cultural exchanges between the East and the West. In the ancient city of Xi 'an, the morning bell of the Wild Goose Pagoda, the smoke of the thatched cottage, the wind and snow of the willow, the evening photos of Mount Li, the sacred palm of Huayue and the stone carvings of the forest of steles still seem to be lingering with the sound of the flourishing Tang Dynasty. There used to be more than 3 countries that had friendly exchanges with the Tang government. The splendid China culture spread to all parts of the world through them. Today, some countries in East Asia still regard the costumes of the Tang Dynasty as formal dresses, which shows the long-lasting influence. Foreign friendly envoys gathered in Chang 'an and also spread the seeds of their culture in Qinchuan, 8 miles away. Painting, sculpture, music, dance and other arts in the Tang Dynasty attracted foreign skills and styles. The eclecticism of foreign clothes and costumes makes the exotic costumes of the Tang Dynasty more colorful and dazzling.
Due to the open policy adopted by the Tang Dynasty, the costumes of the Western Regions and Tubo were eclectic, so "muddy hat" and "fashionable makeup" became popular. This is the third great change in the history of ancient Chinese clothing. Different from the previous two major changes in clothing, this time the clothing exchange is moving from north to south to east.
the Tang dynasty was the heyday of China's feudal society, and both people's thoughts and material production reached a historical peak. Since the Tang Dynasty, flower patterns have been widely used in craft decoration, and their composition is lively and free, dense and symmetrical, plump and round. In particular, the combination of wavy continuous patterns with flowers and plants is the popular branch-binding pattern in Tang Dynasty.
The costume patterns in the Tang Dynasty changed the previous creative thinking that was endowed by nature, and used real flowers, grass, fish and insects to sketch, but the traditional dragon and phoenix patterns were not excluded, which was also determined by the influence of the imperial power. At this time, the design of clothing patterns tends to express the artistic style of freedom, fullness and fatness.
The dress patterns in the late Tang Dynasty were more exquisite and beautiful. Flower-and-bird clothing patterns, border decoration patterns, and group flower clothing patterns are really colorful on the soft clothing of silks and yarns. As Wang Jian of the Five Dynasties said, "Luo Shan's leaves and leaves are heavily embroidered, and there is a cluster of golden phoenix and silver geese, each dancing in two directions, which is among the words" Long live peace. " Today, these luxurious and beautiful clothing patterns we see are the precious image materials that painters have preserved for future generations with hard work in Dunhuang Grottoes. The development of costumes in the Tang Dynasty is the overall development. At this time, the design of costume patterns tends to be free, plump, gorgeous and round, which is illustrated by the performance of shoes, hats, towels, Yu Pei, hairstyles, makeup and jewelry.
From the picture, we can see that the styles of hair styles are rich and colorful, and the patterns include phoenix patterns and peony patterns. Some hairstyles show moire imprint, which is the embodiment of moire development and change. Judging from the style of shoes, the upturned round toe shoes prevailed in the Tang Dynasty, with exquisite workmanship, and even straw sandals were exquisite in craftsmanship. The silk shoes are embroidered with tiger's head, which is similar to the tiger's head shoes worn by children in Shandong, but the toe of the tiger's head shoes worn by rural children in Shandong is not so upturned. There are similarities between the styles of men's shoes and modern shoes, which shows that the development of shoes has reached its peak at that time. Looking at the costume patterns in the Tang Dynasty, we can know that:
The Tang Dynasty inherited the styles of the Zhou, Warring States and Wei and Jin Dynasties, and integrated the rigor of the costume pattern design in the Zhou Dynasty, the stretch of the Warring States period, the lightness of the Han Dynasty and the elegance of the Wei and Jin Dynasties, and on this basis, it became more luxurious, making the costume and costume pattern reach the peak in history; The influence of costumes and costume patterns in the Tang Dynasty on future generations continues to this day. The application of branch-bound patterns in modern clothing patterns shows the implication of the combination of traditional patterns and modern aesthetic consciousness.
(armor in the Three Sui and Tang Dynasties)
The armor and uniform of armor in the Sui and Tang Dynasties and the early Tang Dynasty basically maintained the style and shape from the Southern and Northern Dynasties to the Sui Dynasty. After Zhenguan, a series of clothing system reforms were carried out, and the military and military clothing with Tang style was gradually formed. During the Emperor Gaozong and the Heaven Dynasties, the national strength was at its peak, and the world was peaceful. The luxury trend of the upper-class groups became more and more serious. Most of the military clothes and armor broke away from the function of use and evolved into beautiful and luxurious etiquette clothes with decoration as the main part. After the "An Shi Rebellion", it returned to the practical state conducive to combat in the era of Jin Ge Tiema. This picture shows the wearing of armor, pocket and boots. This type of armor is more exquisite than the early Tang Dynasty, and the decoration on the armor is more elaborate, which is a typical style in the middle Tang Dynasty.
(armor and military uniform of the Five Dynasties)
The armor and military uniform of the Sui and Tang Dynasties in the early Tang Dynasty basically maintained the style and shape from the Southern and Northern Dynasties to the Sui Dynasty. After Zhenguan, a series of clothing system reforms were carried out, and the military and military clothing with Tang style was gradually formed. During the Emperor Gaozong and the Heaven Dynasties, the national strength was at its peak, and the world was peaceful. The luxury trend of the upper-class groups became more and more serious. Most of the military clothes and armor broke away from the function of use and evolved into beautiful and luxurious etiquette clothes with decoration as the main part. After the "An Shi Rebellion", it returned to the practical state conducive to combat in the era of Jin Ge Tiema. In the Five Dynasties, the clothing system basically followed the system of the late Tang Dynasty, and the armor of Ming Guang Jia basically withdrew from the historical stage, and the armor was all made of armor pieces, which became a two-piece suit in shape. Shoubo and shoulder pad are United into one; The breastplate and the leggings are connected into one piece, which is tied back and forth with two shoulder straps and put on the shoulder pad. The other five generations continued to use leather armor, which was made of large pieces of leather, and wore gloves and protective items. This picture shows the restoration of warriors wearing armor and military uniforms during the Five Dynasties.
(armor in Tang Dynasty)
The armor and military clothes in the early Tang Dynasty of Sui, Tang and Five Dynasties basically maintained the style and shape from the Southern and Northern Dynasties to the Sui Dynasty. After Zhenguan, a series of clothing system reforms were carried out, and the military and military clothing with Tang style was gradually formed. During the Emperor Gaozong and the Heaven Dynasties, the national strength was at its peak, and the world was peaceful. The luxury trend of the upper-class groups became more and more serious. Most of the military clothes and armor broke away from the function of use and evolved into beautiful and luxurious etiquette clothes with decoration as the main part. After the "An Shi Rebellion", it returned to the practical state conducive to combat, especially armor, which was basically fixed in the late Tang Dynasty. According to the records in the Six Classics of the Tang Dynasty, the armor of the Tang Dynasty included bright light, light, fine scales, mountain prose, bird hammer, white cloth, soap Juan, cloth back, infantry, leather armor, wooden armor and wooden armor. Among them, Ming Guang, Guang Yao, Suozi, Shan Wen, Bird Hammer and Thin Scales are armored, and the latter three are named after the style of armor pieces. Leather armor, wooden armor, white cloth, soap Juan and cloth back are named after the manufacturing materials. In armor, bright light armor is still the most commonly used. The picture shows the warrior's recovery in the Tang Dynasty wearing bright armor and armor.
(Sui Dynasty's armor and armor)
The most common armor used in the Sui and Tang Dynasties and the Five Dynasties was two crotch and bright armor. Compared with the previous generation, the structure of the crotch has improved, and the shape has also changed a little. Generally, the small nail pieces with full scales and other shapes have been woven, and the length has been extended to the abdomen, replacing the original leather nail skirt. The hem of the body armor is a crescent-shaped and lotus-leaf-shaped nail piece to protect the lower abdomen. These improvements have greatly enhanced the defense from the waist down. The shape of Mingguanglong is basically the same as that of the Northern and Southern Dynasties, but the leg skirt becomes longer. Sui Dynasty military uniform was a round neck robe. This picture shows the restoration of the warriors in the Sui Dynasty (left is Rong Fu, right is armor).
(Armor 2 in Sui and Tang Dynasties)
Armor in Sui and Tang Dynasties was used in actual combat, mainly armor and leather armor. In addition to real armor and leather armor, silk cloth armor was commonly used in the armor of the Tang Dynasty. Silk cloth armor is an armor made of silk cloth and other textiles. It is light in structure and beautiful in appearance, but it has no defensive ability, so it cannot be used in actual combat and can only be used as a general's usual costume or ceremonial costume. The picture shows the armor wearing display.
(Tang Dynasty Sleeve Shirt)
After the Tang Dynasty Sleeve Shirt flourished, the influence of Hu clothing gradually weakened, and the style of women's clothing became wider and wider. In the middle and late Tang Dynasty, this feature was more obvious. In general, women's clothing, the sleeve width was often more than four feet. This picture shows the wearing of wide-sleeved cardigan, long skirt and silk in the middle and late Tang Dynasty. This is an aristocratic dress in the middle and late Tang Dynasty, and it is usually worn on important occasions, such as attending the Senate, attending a ceremony and getting married. Wearing this kind of dress, there are also golden flowers on the hair, so it is also called "the gift dress of the hairpin". This picture shows the wearing of large sleeve cardigan, long skirt and silk.
(Uighur women's clothing in the middle and late Tang Dynasty)
The Uighur dress display of women's clothing in the middle and late Tang Dynasty. Comb Uighur bun, wear jinfeng crown, wear back crane costume, late Tang lady and variant treasure flower pattern Yuntou brocade shoes. Uighur is a minority in northwest China, that is, the predecessor of the present Uyghur. During the Kaiyuan period of the Tang Dynasty, Uighur was once the most powerful minority regime in the north. The Uighur people and the Han people have close and friendly relations, and their cultural exchanges and economic exchanges have never stopped. The clothing of the Uighur nationality has had a great influence on the Han people, especially among aristocratic women and court women. The basic characteristics of Uighur clothes are slightly like men's robes, with lapels, narrow sleeves and wide body, and long floor. The color is mainly warm, especially red. Most of the materials are made of thick brocade, and the collar and sleeves are inlaid with wide brocade lace. Wearing this kind of clothing, you usually pull your hair into a vertebral bun, which is called "Uighur bun". On the bun, another peach-shaped golden crown decorated with pearls and jade is worn, and a phoenix bird is adorned on it. Hairpins are usually inserted into the temples, and many exquisite jewelry are worn around the ears and neck. Wear soft brocade shoes with upturned heads.
(Clothing for the late Tang Dynasty)
During the Sui and Tang Dynasties, women's short skirts were all made of small sleeve, wearing tight-fitting long skirts, which were usually tied above the waist, and some even tied under their armpits with ribbons, giving people a pretty and slender feeling. Silk, also known as "painted silk", is usually made of a thin gauze with a picture pattern printed on it. The length is generally more than two meters. When in use, it is draped over the shoulders and coiled between the arms. It is very beautiful to walk and dance from time to time. This picture shows the costumes (skirts, silks) of female patrons in the late Tang Dynasty in Dunhuang Mogao Grottoes.
(Clothing in Sui and Tang Dynasties)
After the clothing in Sui and Tang Dynasties flourished, the influence of Hu clothing gradually weakened, and the style of women's clothing became wider and wider. In the middle and late Tang Dynasty, this feature was more obvious. In general, women's clothing, the sleeve width was often more than four feet. The silk painted women unearthed in Dunhuang Mogao Grottoes, the aristocratic women painted in The Picture of Zanhua Ladies, and the pottery women's costumes unearthed in the tomb of the Second Mausoleum of the Southern Tang Dynasty are typical styles of this period. Noble women in the Tang Dynasty wore transparent gauze clothes with huge flowers on their heads, and they wore no underwear inside the gauze clothes. This was a bold costume, which also reflected the open mind of women at that time. The style of big sleeve shirt skirt is big sleeve and double breasted, with long skirt and silk. This picture shows the murals of the Five Dynasties in Dunhuang Mogao Grottoes, with aristocratic women wearing crested buns, golden flower combs, jewelry necklaces, long sleeves and skirts, silks and round-headed shoes.
(Women's Clothing in the Prosperous Tang Dynasty 2)
Women in Women's Clothing in the Prosperous Tang Dynasty (part of Zhang Xuan's Dao Lian Tu). In the Sui Dynasty and the early Tang Dynasty, women used small sleeve as their shorts, wearing tight-fitting long skirts with high waist, usually above the waist, and some even tied them under their armpits with ribbons, giving people a pretty and slender feeling. Silk weaving, also known as "painting silk", usually