Speaking of Guizhou, Zhenyuan is an unavoidable business card. If you travel to Guizhou, the town will come far away.
The time to reac
Speaking of Guizhou, Zhenyuan is an unavoidable business card. If you travel to Guizhou, the town will come far away.
The time to reach Zhenyuan is after 5 pm. My friend asked us to drive directly to Xinqiao and then find a homestay by Wuyang River. The ancient city is near the new bridge. You can choose to stay in an inn in the ancient city or an inn outside the ancient city. The price is related to the quality of the hotel and whether there is a river view balcony, but has little to do with the geographical location. Parking near the ancient city is a big problem. Parking lots are basically 3 kilometers away. After we booked the room, the hotel owner took us to park and walked straight for 5 kilometers to find a parking space. Fortunately, taxis in the city are very cheap, only 7 yuan for five kilometers, which is cheaper than parking fees.
Zhenyuan's dinner was recommended by a friend for Zhenyuan cockfighting. The boss is very enthusiastic and the charge is reasonable. He also asked us to use her kitchen to cook for the children. Except that the price of native chicken is as high as 80 kg, all other stir-fried dishes are between 15-20, and those with meat are within 30. Grilled chicken is spicy, slightly sour and very appetizing. Ade's family has an average ability to eat Chili, so they can't stop chopsticks this time.
After dinner, go back to the ancient city, take a boat first, and visit Wuyang River at night. Wuyang River has a wide water surface, and its banks are brightly lit, reflecting in the water, forming a water street with bright sides and dark middle. Ships swim in it, just like walking in the street. On the one hand, there are old houses with a strong sense of history, signboards with long marks, waterfront docks not far away, and high steps leading to the streets; On the other side is the riverside night market with willows fluttering. People set tables against the railings of the river bank, blowing wind, drinking wine and chatting. The historical vicissitudes of a city and the current market culture are perfectly released on this river.
The streets of this ancient city are paved with stone slabs. After millions of times of rolling and trampling by cars and people, the slate was polished to a shiny finish, and even the soles of the feet slipped when walking on it. Maybe all the shops in the ancient city are those shops, all selling those north and south coins, but there are many tofu shops here, and few shops are opened in the name of tofu. I didn't know until I went in and tried. People here can really eat tofu. The ingredients alone can be put out 18 bowls, sweet, salty, spicy and sour, so you can choose. Want to know the taste of bean curd ice powder? Chocolate sauce with tofu, can you imagine that taste? And tofu ice cream? If you dare not try this wonderful taste of new people, try traditional tofu pudding rice and tofu pudding grilled fish.
At night 12, I said to Niu Niu, "Zhenyuan ancient city should end with a midnight snack at night, and you can stay up late tonight." Tofu pudding grilled fish is the main brand of Zhenyuan night market. The signboard of hundreds of shops in Wuyanghe Night Market, which stretches for one kilometer, is the same: tofu pudding and grilled fish. The whole fish is cooked, with bean sprouts, cabbage and sour plums under it, covered with a thick layer of tofu like Mapo tofu, and cooked on charcoal fire. We now choose Qingjiang fish to kill. This kind of fish has few bones, and it is relatively safe to eat even with tofu pudding. People who choose grass carp really admire their courage, and they may choose fish carefully in the tofu pudding pile, which is a kind of enjoyment for them.
When we finished the grilled fish, Niu Niu insisted on eating a bunch. So on the new bridge at midnight, we enjoyed the quiet Wuyang River while eating mutton kebabs. That's what the Wuyang River looks like before. She took off her gorgeous coat, put on her soft and plain household clothes, stretched gently and quietly, and nourished it slowly and timely.
In the morning, the rising sun sprinkled two colors on Wuyang River, one was warm gold, and the other was quiet blue. Niu Niu got up from bed with sleepy eyes and saw the scenery like this. She was awakened by her own "wow" in an instant. Then he knocked on Danny's door and took Danny for a walk by the river. We walked down the high steps to the river and found that the third floor where we lived was actually the sixth floor. The bar by the river has closed, and the uncle in twos and threes threw down his usual fishing rod and sat on the railing waiting for the fish to bite. There is also a morning exercise aunt washing towels in the river, and we found that the water is really clear. No wonder people who drank too much in the night market jumped into the river to swim last night, and young couples sat by the river to soak their feet. The water quality control of Wuyang River is so enviable. When will our Qijiang let us rest assured to soak our feet and wash our hands?
Walking from the river to the new bridge, the sun has risen so high that my stomach began to growl. This time, we still found the vegetable market with the grandmothers dragging the vegetable basket. Here we bought a crisp, sweet and cheap big yellow peach and found the treasure. The boss selling yellow peaches directed us to have breakfast at the intersection, and we chose a restaurant with many people watching. When I got there, I found a frying stall that was watching. One of the woks fried by Hengheng was taken away, and everyone was waiting with a sign. Oil fruits can be divided into sweet fruits without stuffing and salted fruits with stuffing. Salted fruit is sour and spicy, which is quite distinctive. Sweet fruit is similar to the fried pile here, one yuan each, quite big and not expensive.
Behind the oil pan is a beef and mutton powder shop, where we ate the best mutton powder in our trip. The owner of sheep bone soup also sells it separately, 7 yuan and 5 large pieces. It's very enjoyable to chew in your hand. It tastes delicious and has no taste at all. There is a kind of sauce that locals like to eat. Mash the roasted peppers and leeks together. It's green, spicy and challenging. This breakfast made us full, because the soup was fresh and we all drank it.
After breakfast, continue back to the ancient city. Today we will take a look at the imprint left by Zhenyuan's glorious history. The first is to look at the gatehouse. Zhenyuan used to be an important town in eastern Guizhou with developed commerce. Many large commercial households have built deep houses here. Years have changed, and now only the former gatehouse tells the glory of the past. Deep in the alley, we were lucky enough to meet an old man who lived alone in his ancestral home. He let us into the yard and visited the houses left over from the late Qing Dynasty. The old man said that his ancestors were in the business of candles and cloth. This house has been in business for over 0/00 years. Since it was listed as a historical relic, it has not been funded for repair and cannot be changed at will, so it has always remained its original appearance. The backyard has collapsed and the roof of the wing has been broken, but you can still see the momentum of that year. We asked him why he didn't rent it to others to make a homestay, or make his own restaurant or something. The old man said that he was not short of money at home and was unwilling to toss about this ancestral home. He only hopes that the government can formulate policies and allocate funds for transformation as soon as possible.
Later, we also saw several well-preserved houses transformed into homestays, restaurants, tea rooms or old houses specially for people to visit. These houses are becoming more and more popular, but they have lost their real flavor. There are gains and losses!
The famous "oblique door" means that local people pay special attention to Feng Shui. The door can't be parallel or vertical to the alley, and the hall can't face the alley, so when you walk down an alley, there are really gatehouses on both sides. This residential building is built on the mountain, and the doorways of each house face in different directions, so the alley twists out a graceful waist and turns around repeatedly, winding up, end to end, and there is no way up and down. Every time I look back, I feel that I have missed a covered landscape. If you have time, you can walk here for a day.