When I was in school, my family didn’t cook breakfast. My father gave me 7 cents every day. I had to eat a beef noodle before going to school. There was a beef noodle restaurant at the entrance of the yard. It was opened by people from the plains of Linxia. It didn’t have a name because There is an 18-story high-rise building next to it, and everyone calls it High-rise Beef Noodles. The beef noodle restaurants at that time did not have the high-end decoration like now, with dim light bulbs, painted square tables, and square stools. You can smell a special aroma, including the fluffy flour aroma, which also includes the smell of coriander (the old Lanzhou people call it coriander yansui) and garlic sprouts (the current coriander and garlic sprouts are just for visual effect in the bowl, which is not that (It tastes like the season.) Ask for a capillary, put less spicy food, pour some balsamic vinegar, sip it for a while and then finish it. Those who go to school go to work, those who go to work go to work, and the day's life begins...
In the history of Lanzhou beef noodle restaurants (this article mainly refers to the 1960s to 1970s), there is no such thing as being popular or not. In those days, noodle restaurants served the majority of workers, peasants and soldiers, and the lower profile the better. Beef noodle restaurants were state-owned and run by the public. The quality, standards, and service standards were all the same. If you went to eat at a store A and eat at a store B, the quality would be the same. The guarantee and service standards are the same. Customers don’t have to worry about spending money and not getting a good meal. On the other hand, all restaurants are serious about treating every customer as God. Well worth the money spent. For example, if you go to a beef noodle restaurant and eat a bowl of ordinary beef noodles, this bowl of noodles may make you linger and forget it for a lifetime.
Beef noodles is a social custom in Lanzhou. It has a long history and has been popular for hundreds of years. It is also one of the representative scenes of Lanzhou’s food culture. Today, beef noodles can become a well-known brand of Lanzhou. Objectively speaking, the business card of the 1960s and 1970s served as a connecting link between the past and the future, and served as a turning point for further development. As an authentic old Lanzhou native, I can’t help but recall every detail of the Lanzhou beef noodle restaurant in the 1960s and 1970s. Lanzhou beef noodles originated in the late Qing Dynasty. It was originally created by a group of poor craftsmen represented by Ma Baozi who made a living on the streets. From the late Qing Dynasty to the early days of liberation, as a kind of halal snack, it had a tepid existence in Lanzhou and did not make much waves. It even became popular all over the country, and everyone wanted to talk about it and taste a bowl. , should be something that started rapidly in the late 1980s due to the reform and opening up.
In the early 1950s, during the public-private partnership movement in Lanzhou, some privately operated halal beef noodle shops and mobile beef noodle vendors on the streets were all centralized under the Lanzhou Catering Industry Under the service company, most of these public-private joint venture beef noodle restaurants are concentrated on Zhangye Road, Old Central Square, Qingyang Road, and Jiuquan Road in Chengguan District, the most prosperous commercial streets in Lanzhou City. According to memories, there should be two in Chengguan District on Zhangye Road. There are two in Nanguan, one in the north and south of Jiuquan Road, and one in Xuanjia Lane and Guangwumen. There are about eight or nine of these halal beef noodle restaurants. In the 1960s, these public-private joint venture beef noodle restaurants all removed the word "joint venture" and completely became public-operated beef noodle restaurants, and the names of the restaurants were based on the neighborhood where they are located, such as Lanzhou Catering Service Company; Nanguan Shizi Halal Beef Noodle shop, Xinqiao Halal Beef Noodle House, etc.
The beef noodle restaurant that has a profound impact on my memory is the Xuanjia Lane Halal Beef Noodle Restaurant. The north entrance of Xuanjia Lane is opposite the famous Yuebinlou Hotel on Qingyang Road. There are forked roads in the south of Xuanjia Lane. One leads to Sanaitang Hospital, the other leads to Xiaogoutou to Lanzhou No. 1 Middle School, and there is an intersection in the middle. Go to Changjia Lane. Xuanjia Lane Beef Noodle House is located on the west side of the middle section of the small street. Opposite is a sugar, wine and non-staple food store. It is next to a halal meat shop and a halal meat shop. This shop seems to have been one of the few in Lanzhou that provided halal meat. One of the few shops. The Xuanjia Lane Beef Noodle House is a street-facing building without eaves. The shop is not too big. The front and back kitchens are about three bays, and the depth is eight or nine meters. There are about ten original Eight Immortals tables in the shop. These Eight Immortals tables have been soaked with oil, soup and cured water for a long time. , the original wood cannot be seen, it is oily but seems to be covered with a layer of patina.
In those days, there was a long queue to eat noodles at a beef noodle restaurant. First, you had to line up to get a small ticket. I remember that a big bowl at that time required three taels of food stamps, which was RMB 20.1. Split the money. The small bowl is 20 taels of food stamps, which costs 18 cents. Open the receipt and wait in line again for the noodles.
The traditional Lanzhou beef noodles back then were completely different from what they are now. First of all, the noodles were made from natural gray water and mixed with the noodles before being pulled out. The noodles were dark yellow, oily and moist, instead of the dry white they are now. The noodles are chewy but have a wheaty flavor and are easy to digest. The beef soup is turbid and light brown in color. It is obvious that the original soup has relatively thick ingredients and is seasoned with a small amount of seasonings. It is known for its original flavor. Xuanjia Lane Beef Noodle House pays special attention to the aspect of cooking meat and making soup. When I was studying in Lanzhou No. 1 Middle School, I passed by the noodle house several times a day. Even though it was far away, I could smell the tangy aroma of boiled beef. It was not like the beef we eat nowadays. Apart from the spicy smell, you can't smell any aroma of boiled beef when you enter the store.
Now let’s introduce Lanzhou beef noodles. Many people like to describe them as one clear, two white, three yellow and four green. In fact, traditional Lanzhou beef noodles, at least, are not exactly this image. It's a bit more vulgar and simple than this description. These are over-packaged, over-described, and somewhat exaggerated. Lanzhou beef noodles in the 1960s and 1970s fully reflected the characteristics of large noodles, less soup, more oil, rich meat, and fragrant taste. They looked neither clear nor white, not bright in color but good in taste. In terms of production, they were far inferior to Today's beef noodles are finely made. Although they are rougher, in terms of affordable taste and quality, they are far from the current beef noodles. It is also true that the beef noodle business in the past was simple and simple, with rigid thinking. For example, the Xuanjia Lane Beef Noodle House only provided a single type of beef noodles throughout the day. There were no various side dishes, eggs, and flatbreads. The types of beef noodles were basically limited to two thin round bars. , I have the impression that customers do not declare in advance what kind of noodles they want, but let the ramen chef choose the recipe. Moreover, no matter how many people are eating noodles at that time, they are all patiently waiting for others to finish eating and vacate their seats. This is rare. Squatting on the curb to eat beef noodles.
Back then, the Xuanjia Lane Beef Noodle House was very popular and had a good reputation. Going into the store to eat a bowl of fragrant beef noodles was indeed a physical and mental pleasure. Although I was good at this, I couldn't do whatever I wanted. Of course, this had a lot to do with the pocket economy. Not to mention that the limited supply of food stamps was so tight. Just two cents and one cent was enough for an ordinary family to eat for a day. money. A school student can eat two or three times a month, and a parent is quite liberal. Around one spring in the early 1970s, the Lanzhou Food Service Company organized employees from its beef noodle restaurants to go to Gaolan Mountain to carry out afforestation and greening work. Unfortunately, something happened. While going down the mountain, the car they were riding in crashed and rolled over from the top of the mountain. After coming down, it was said that most of the people who died were employees of the Xuanjia Lane Beef Noodle House. Maybe it was because of excessive grief and self-blame, maybe it was because there were no familiar craftsmen to support the normal operation of a beef noodle restaurant. In short, after this tragic and unfortunate incident happened and was reported in the news, Xuanjia Lane, a subsidiary of Lanzhou Catering Service Company, The beef noodle restaurant closed soon, and the people nearby who liked to eat beef noodles lost a place where they could enjoy their food. This was a great regret for those who liked Lanzhou beef noodles in that era.
In the late 1990s, on the west side of the Qilihe Traffic Police Team: there was a halal Penghui Beef Noodle House~~named: Hagaimu Beef Noodle House, the owner’s name was: Hagaimu, and the smell was fragrant. It is about two yuan a bowl. There are many people queuing up and the business is quite good, especially in the morning. A bowl of noodles plus a big pancake is called: pimp pulling stones. As the name means: eating solid but also hungry, usually it is a miserable person. When I ate this set meal, I was still in my twenties and had a good stomach. A bowl of this set meal in the morning only cost about NT$2.50. I felt full of energy and vitality!
In the early 1990s: I also visited Mazilu Beef Noodles on the west side of the intersection of Jiuquan Road and Wudu Road. At that time, the Mazilu Beef Noodles restaurant faced Open to the north, the store is not big, with five or six tables and long benches. The food outlet is on the east side. The soup is thick and fragrant, cooked in fluffy ash, but there are only thin, two-thin and three-thin noodles. If you want If you are Bo Kuan or something like that, I won’t ask you one more question, but say: If there is no Bo Kuan, the next person will eat it. Back then, it was embarrassing and shameful and I couldn’t get off the stage, so I will eat it obediently [cover my face] ][Hold face][Hold face], this shop was very famous back then, and the diners were packed with people. There were two long queues in the early morning. Ma Zilu Beef Noodle House had an extremely rare event. Mr. Ma Zilu would wake up early every day. : neatly packed, wearing long robe and mandarin jacket, neatly dressed, sitting upright against the wall in the middle of the door: next to the right hand is a small tea stool, with a pot of good tea on it, sitting upright, with a majestic expression, a long beard under the chin, looking forward, Those who don’t know: think that the old man is deep in thought. Those who know: Only then do they realize that it is ~ celebrity effect and living signboard. He was the only one who was a major attraction in Lanzhou City back then! It’s a pity that back then: I was stupid and shallow, I didn’t know how to chase stars, and I didn’t know how to take photos together. If I put it aside now, it would still be a boast. The honor of having a photo taken with Mr. Ma back then is better than eating beef noodles for decades! !
In the past, many beef noodles were very popular. At that time, the Internet was not developed, and there were not so many Internet celebrities like now. Reputation can only be spread by word of mouth. Unfortunately, I have a bad memory and have basically forgotten all of them. I only remember these few.
Master Huang’s shop at the north entrance of Yongchang Road seems to be near Nanbinhe Road. At that time, Master Huang’s restaurant was called Huohuo. I remember that the entrance was full of tables (urban management was not strict at the time), inside and outside the store. They are all people. When you pass by by bus, you can often see a long queue waiting in front of their door to take pictures.
Jacky Ma of Guangwumen, it seems that before 2009, Jacky Ma of the original Holiland cake in Guangwumen also lined up every day, business was very good, their home is on Qin'an Road On the other side, Ye opened a store at Jingning intersection, and it was also very popular.
Erre Saddam, this restaurant was very famous in the Erre area at first, and gradually everyone in Lanzhou City knew about it. There were rows of people squatting at the door holding bowls to eat, which was very Spectacular.
The National Security Bureau on Jiuda Road. If the National Security Bureau were placed now, it would definitely be a veritable Internet celebrity store. The store is not big, and there are so many people that you have no place to stay. There is a row of people parked at the door. The queue of cars was extremely lively, and the store in Zhongluzi was also overcrowded. The queue at Duanmen stretched all the way to the road.
Nowadays, there are more and more restaurants, and the people eating noodles are scattered. It is rare to see a long queue at any popular restaurant, and people don’t have time to queue up. If you have a lot of family members, then go eat next to it. The taste is not much different.
I ate beef noodles for the first time in the winter of 1979, 0.18 yuan/three taels of food stamps (large bowl), 0.15 yuan/20 taels of food stamps (small bowl), that one It's delicious. After finishing the noodles and finishing the soup, I have endless aftertaste.
As soon as Ma Zilu’s old man left, Ma Zilu gradually changed. That’s all for now.
The old man of Banpo Beef Noodles is gone.
Saddam’s beef noodles will no longer be available after 2000.
I haven’t eaten Malan Beef Noodles in Qiju since 1995.
Today’s beef noodles, just to please myself and outsiders, no longer have the real taste of beef noodles, it’s all about seasoning. In 2005, I personally saw the Beef Noodle King in Dazhong Alley mixing a pot of beef noodle soup with a few packets of seasonings and a pot of boiling water. The boss and the man scolded him on the spot without saying a word. Alas... what a pity.
In the 1960s and 1970s, all beef noodle restaurants in Lanzhou were state-owned and affiliated to the Lanzhou Catering Service Company.
At that time, there were far less beef noodle restaurants than there are now. You had to queue up to eat beef noodles in the morning. The more famous ones (the stores were all named after streets), counting from the Cultural Palace to the east, were the "Qiaotou (New Bridge of the Leitan River next to the Cultural Palace) Beef "Noodle House", "Linxia Road Beef Noodle House", "Qiaomen Beef Noodle House", "Muta Lane Beef Noodle House", "Xiuheyan Beef Noodle House", "Central Square Beef Noodle House", "Lanzhou Restaurant", "Mass Market Beef Noodle House" , "Dancaishi Beef Noodle House", "Shuangchengmen Beef Noodle House", "Zhongshanlin Beef Noodle House", etc. are all relatively famous (the predecessor of the current "Jinding Beef Noodle"), and they are all genuine, and the ramen noodles are well-cooked. The noodles should be weighed three or four times a morning to see if the portion is enough. At that time, there were large bowls (3 taels of clean noodles) and small bowls (2 taels of clean noodles), and the prices were 12 cents and 8 cents. Later, the prices slowly increased. The alkali at that time was made of alkaline water made from Penghui (the Penghui made by burning Pengcao was smashed into small particles, boiled three times with water in a large pot, and then the three boiled liquids were mixed together). The beef noodles had a unique flavor. .
Let me talk about a beef noodle restaurant in Anning in the early 1980s and 1990s. Such as "Cang Beef Noodles", a lot of people ate it in those years, but later it closed for unknown reasons.
At that time, there were two markets in Feijiaying and Taohai markets. I can’t remember their names. They were also very popular at the time. There is also the "Jinhua Beef Noodles" at Shuiguaizhuang Qiaotou, which is quite old. However, with the development of society and the changes of the times, most of these old restaurants are gone. Nowadays, Anning's beef noodle restaurants are being reshuffled too fast. New ones are opened every year, and some are closed and changed. The environment of the newly opened store is indeed much better than before. It is spacious, bright, clean and hygienic, but the overall taste of the noodles is also very different from the past. Many restaurants use machines to knead the noodles, and the noodles are replaced by ramen noodles. As for the original soup, most of them are blended with MSG and chicken essence to save trouble, so it is difficult to find the previous taste.
It has been almost two months since I came back from the Northeast during the Chinese New Year. What surprises me is that I haven’t eaten a bowl of beef noodles in the past few days since I came back. Neither greedy nor wanting, oh my God! Am I still a native of Lanzhou? This was unbelievable before. Thinking about how I used to go to school in other places, the first thing I did after returning to Lanzhou was to get out of the car and quickly find a place to eat a bowl of beef noodles. That fragrant, that delicious taste, it really makes me dream about it. But now, time has passed and everything has changed. The taste of beef noodles may only remain in the fragments of memory!
The beef noodles at Xiaogoutou 54 Grain Station used to be quite popular
The one that impressed me the most was Yuan Central The Lanqingge beef noodles in the square cost 28 cents for three taels of food stamps... It turns out that when Ma Zilu opened on Wudu Road, it tasted very spicy [laughing] There is also a restaurant just outside the entrance of Jiandao Lane on Binhe Road. A state-owned noodle restaurant, a beef noodle shop at the north entrance of Huangjiayuan... These are all my childhood memories, and now they can only remain in the deepest memory.
If The earliest beef noodles can be mentioned in the 1980s, the "dense" noodle restaurants along the Wuquanshan 8th Road Station towards the park. The beef noodle restaurants renovated from simple houses are located next to each other. The only thing that is the same is that at the door of each noodle restaurant there is a water tank renovated from an oil drum. Every day, the waiter would pull the cart to the entrance of Wuquanshan Park to collect spring water for use in the noodle restaurants. The noodle restaurants all look similar in appearance. Everyone will tell you where to eat beef noodles... When you enter the noodle shop, it is divided into two, one half is the kitchen and the other is the dining area. There are iron-framed windows facing the street and wooden cabinets against the walls to store sundries. There is a long table in the middle that can accommodate three people for dining during the day and for the waiters at night. The bed, mattress and quilt are all stored in wooden cabinets. The floor is made of red bricks or blue bricks. The tables are very high and the stools are long benches. Each bowl of noodles costs about two or three cents. People in the neighborhood can serve a bowl of noodles with five or six five-cent steel pots. Because they are all coal-fired and the environment is hygienic, I cannot praise the taste. The chef of the ramen adds coal to the bottom half at any time. Control the heat, wipe your hands with an apron and immediately pick up the noodles and pull the noodles. No one has any objections ( )
When it comes to delicious beef noodles, it’s the old Lanzhou Cigarette Factory. The large and small beef noodles at the entrance are called large beef noodle restaurants because the beef noodle restaurants in the south of Lanzhou Cigarette Factory are larger, and the smaller beef noodle restaurants in the north are called veal noodle restaurants.
Let’s focus on the Big Beef Noodle House, which is the one in the south. The exterior walls are painted with white lime, the doors and windows are painted with green paint, which is quite strange now. At that time, everyone was accustomed to it. “Jiuquan Road Beef Noodle House” was written in red paint on the door. The dining area is large and rectangular, with square tables for four on both sides and a passage in the middle. At that time, it was affiliated to the Jiuquan Road Catering Company, which was also a well-known "state-owned enterprise". The taste was one of the best at the time. In today's hot words, it was an "Internet celebrity check-in point". The noodles are all "acted" separately. One person queues up to buy the ticket, another person queues up to serve the noodles, and the other person steps on the bench legs of other diners to indicate their standing. You can decide for yourself how delicious it is.
There is also a "Lanqing Pavilion" beef noodle restaurant located opposite the post office in front of the provincial government. It is also amazing. Every day, customers line up to serve the noodles. At that time, in Lanqing There is also a sculpture of a cartoon "Beef Ramen" at the entrance of Ge Beef Noodle House. People who eat on weekends can line up from the window to the road outside the noodle shop...