The name of cloth in ancient times (silk, damask, satin, cloth, silk, cotton, silk, silk, silk, spun)~~~~~~绮,绨,绨,silk,luo,yarn)
Silk: a major category of silk fabrics. It refers to a silk fabric with a tight texture that uses a basic structure or a mixed structure or has no characteristics of other silk fabrics. According to the raw materials, they are divided into cotton silk, double palace silk, Yajiang silk and polyester silk using tussah silk. It is customary to associate silk with satin with a satin effect as the general name of silk fabrics - satin; sometimes silk is also used as a proxy for silk fabrics. Silk originated in China. Silk appeared in the Western Han Dynasty, and was written as " " at that time, specifically referring to plain weave fabrics woven by spinning thick and messy silk. During the Jin and Southern and Northern Dynasties, silk began to be divided into thick and fine ones. Silk: A textile woven from silk or synthetic filaments. During the Han and Tang Dynasties, Chinese silk passed through the Silk Road and was exported to countries in Central Asia, Europe, and Africa. Since the Ming and Qing Dynasties, silk has become a general term for silk fabrics. Silk is divided according to raw materials. In addition to silkworm filament, there are also cotton silk made of silk noil, Yajiang silk made of tussah silk, double palace silk made of double palace silk, and polyester silk made of chemical fiber filament. wait. Silk can be divided into raw (white) weaving and cooked (colored) weaving, and can also be divided into plain silk without jacquard and jacquard floral silk. Silk is a medium-thick silk fabric. The lighter and thinner varieties can be used for shirts and skirts; the heavier ones can be used for coats and trousers. In modern times, it has been customary to call plain silk fabrics with tight and strong warp support surfaces silk, such as taffeta. Cotton fabrics with the above characteristics are often called silk, such as poplin.
Ling: Traditional Chinese silk fabric with twill patterns on the ground. It was developed on the basis of Qi. It was produced before the Han Dynasty and flourished in the Tang and Song Dynasties. Damask is smooth, soft and light in texture. It is used for framing calligraphy and painting, making shirts, pajamas, etc. It is called framed damask used to frame pictures, books, high-end gift boxes, etc.
According to raw materials, damask silk is divided into pure mulberry silk fabrics, synthetic fiber fabrics and interwoven fabrics. The ground texture of damask fabrics is a variety of warp-face twill weaves or floral fabrics made mainly of warp-face twill weaves and mixed with other tissues. Common varieties of damask fabrics include floral damask, Guangzhou damask, interlaced damask, and nylon. Cotton damask, etc. Plain damask is a silk fabric made of pure mulberry silk. It is light and thin and is used for mounting tables and pictures. Other damask fabrics have beautiful color and soft feel and can be used as clothing for all seasons.
A type of traditional Chinese silk fabric. The earliest damask has a mountain-shaped slope on its surface, which is why it is so named because it looks like ice. Aya is divided into flower elements. "Zhengzi Tong: Department of the Department": "Those whose texture is plain are called Qi, and those whose light is like a mirror and have the shape of flowers are called Ling." Ling adopts twill weave or variable twill weave. Traditional flower damask is usually made of twill weave as the ground, with a single layer of dark fabric on top. Damask is light and soft in texture and is mainly used for mounting calligraphy and paintings, as well as for clothing. Damask existed before the Han Dynasty. In the Han Dynasty, loose-flowered damask was woven with multi-heddle and multi-skirt looms. During the Three Kingdoms period, Ma Jun reformed the damask loom and was able to weave more complex patterns of animals and figures. In the Tang Dynasty, damask was greatly developed. Bai Juyi's poem "Spring Hope in Hangzhou": "The red sleeves are woven with damask to praise the persimmon stems, and the green flag is sprinkled with pear blossoms." Officials in the Tang Dynasty all used damask as official uniforms. Among the many varieties, Zhejiang's Liao Ling is the most famous. In the Song Dynasty, dog hooves, persimmon stems, mixed flower plate carvings, and waves were added on the basis of the Tang Dynasty. Damask began to be used for mounting calligraphy and paintings, and production gradually decreased during the Yuan, Ming and Qing dynasties.
Satin, a thicker silk fabric with a smooth and shiny front: satin | brocade.
Various floral and plain silk fabrics using satin weave. Satin fabric is commonly known as satin, and there are many varieties. In the satin weave, only one of the warps and wefts covers the surface in a floating form, and covers the other evenly distributed individual weave points. The surface of the fabric is thus smooth and shiny. The warp floats covering the surface are called warp satin; the weft floats covering the surface are called weft satin. Satin fabrics are among the silk products with the most complex technology, the most colorful fabric appearance, and the highest level of craftsmanship. Our common ones include floral satin, plain satin, brocade satin, antique satin, etc. Floral soft satin, brocade satin, and antique satin can be used to make cheongsams, quilt covers, cotton-padded jackets, etc. Its characteristics: smooth and bright, soft texture. Ancient fragrant satin and brocade have various patterns, rich colors, fine textures, and magnificent patterns. They have national style and hometown color. Most Tang suits are made of this kind of fabric. Yingxing of the Ming and Song Dynasties wrote in "Tiangong Kaiwu·Naifu": "Any Japanese section... will be scraped into black after being woven for a few inches." The word "Duan" is used in this work. , now "satin".
Bu is the general name for cotton, linen, ramie, kudzu and other fabrics. In ancient times, it usually referred to linen. Commonly used: commoners (common people, common people.
In ancient times, common people wore linen clothes, so they were called "cloth clothes"); cloth trough (manger made of cloth); cloth brown (coarse cloth clothes; also refers to common people); Bu Zong (ancient mourning clothes, hair tied with linen)
Silk: the general name for silk fabrics [silk]. Such as: silk cloth (generally refers to silk and linen fabrics); silk silk (plain silk woven with tussah silk); silk head (dialect. handkerchief). Silk fabrics are plain weave, light and thin in texture, tough, crisp and smooth, generally common There are Tianxiang silk, sieve silk, etc. Tianxiang silk can be used to make women's clothing, children's clothing, etc. Its satin flowers are easy to fluff and should not be washed too much
缣 jiān
Silk book
Silk book is a kind of book written on silk fabric after Jian Ce binding book. "Mozi" mentions "writing on bamboo and silk", which means that both bamboo slips and silk are used to write books. The format of the silk fabric is uncertain and can be cut at will. If the article is small and the text is small, small pieces of silk silk can be used. If the article is large and the text is large, large pieces of silk silk can be used.
Silk scripts appeared and were used during the period when bamboo slips and wooden tablets were prevalent. "Mozi" says "written on bamboo and silk", which means writing on bamboo slips and burning silk. Silk writing is much more convenient than bamboo slips because the silk is soft and smooth, and it is easy to apply ink when writing. The format can be cut to any size according to the amount of text. "Zigu" says: "In ancient times, plain silk was cut at will according to the length of the book." This is what it means. The form of a silk book is generally that an article is divided into one paragraph, and each paragraph is folded into a stack or rolled into a bundle, which is called a "volume". Today's books are called "volumes", which comes from this. Later, it developed into wrapping a wooden shaft on the lower end or Zuo Rui of the silk as a support, which is both stiff and easy to find. Silk books are actually the predecessor of scroll books and a type of scroll books.
Silk: raw silk fabric. ~ head (ancient hair scarf).
绨 tí (name) is a phonetic sound. Cong Shi, younger brother's voice. Original meaning: A kind of thick and smooth silk fabric in ancient times, thick silk. ——"Shuowen" The folk custom of Lu and Liang is Ji. ——"Guanzi·Qingchongding" Take the silk robe and give it to him. ——"Historical Records·Biography of Fan Ju and Cai Ze" Red silk and green silk. ——"Book of Han·Biography of the Xiongnu" Clothes and shoes. ——"Hanshu·Gongyu Biography" The body is dressed in silk and silk brocade. ——"Book of Han·Ji Zan of Emperor Wen" Another example: Tieji (a few tables covered with silk brocade); Tieyi (thick painted clothes); Tiefu (thick black painted clothes); Tiewan (thick and thin) The general name for silk fabrics); 绨绠 (also known as "绨帙". A scroll envelope made of silk. Because it is also the name of a book); 绨绠 (thick silk fabric) (name) Silk fabric name 绨tí (ancient) A thick and smooth silk fabric: ~ robe. Textiles made of silk threads as the "warp" and cotton threads as the "weft" are coarser and thicker than silk. Thick silk. The texture is thick, smooth and shiny, and comes in a variety of colors. Since the Qin and Han Dynasties, it has been often used as robe material. People in the Tang Dynasty called it "灁". "Guanzi Qingchongwu": "The folk custom of Lu and Liang is 绨." "Historical Records. Biography of Fan Ju and Cai Ze": "I took a piece of robe from him and gave it to him." Sima Zhen's index: "绨, thick silk ribbon, with the sound of crying , This is the reason why. "Tang Yuanzhen's "Reward for Lotte Dezhen's gift of silk cloth made of Bai Qingyong into clothes": "Huan City is thousands of miles away from Bayong, and the silk cloth is thin and light." "History of the Song Dynasty. Biography of Zhao Xun": "The silk felt lived in the niche valley and had no one to belong to. Xun and the book called it, leaving behind the silk cotton, and the silk felt obeyed his orders." 1. The name of ancient silk fabrics. The ancient note of Sanyanshi in the volume of "Jijiupian": "绨, thick silk is also slippery." "Guanzi·Qingchongwu": "The folk custom of Lu and Liang is 绨." 2. Modern refers to the long silk with glossy viscose Silk fabric is made of silk as warp and cotton or wax yarn as weft, interwoven with plain weave. The texture is thick and dense, and the texture is simple and clear. The weft yarn made of mercerized cotton yarn is called thread yarn, which is divided into plain yarn yarn and floral yarn yarn; the weft yarn made of waxed cotton yarn is called wax yarn yarn, and the jacquard yarn yarn is called flower yarn yarn.
Among them, the large-pattern thread quilts are used as quilt tops, and the others are generally used as clothing materials.
Spinning: Silk and linen fibers are made into yarn or thread. Silk and satin are all silk varieties. Modern silk still uses many of its old names, such as crepe, damask, silk, and silk. Some foreign words are also used, such as Qiao. Its (georgette), taffeta (taffeta), etc. They are classified according to their organizational structure, raw materials, processing techniques, texture, appearance and main uses.
People often use silk and satin to describe a person’s gorgeousness and wealth. So what exactly is silk and satin? In fact, silk and satin are only 4 types of silk varieties. Silk fabrics are classified in this way. They are divided into 14 major categories and 34 subcategories based on the fabric structure, combination of warp and weft threads, processing technology, appearance and texture of the silk surface.
The 14 categories include damask, Luo, silk, satin, spun, crepe, yarn, velvet, silk, brocade, woolen, kudzu, silk, and silk.