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Repost: Ancient harem cosmetics
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1. Women's "cosmetics" in ancient times
(1) Huadin
This kind of makeup is also called flower, face flower, and decal. It is affixed to the eyebrows and face. A small decoration.
As for the origin of Huadian, according to "Miscellaneous Five Elements Book" quoted from Song Gaocheng's "Shi Ji Hou": In the Southern Dynasty, "Princess Shouyang, the daughter of Emperor Wu of the Song Dynasty, was lying under the eaves of Hanzhang Palace, with plum blossoms falling on her forehead. On the top, five flowers appeared, which could not be removed by brushing them. After three days of washing, they fell off. The palace maids were so strange that they worked hard." For some reason, it is called "plum blossom makeup" or "Shouyang makeup". < /p>
It was also during the Tang Dynasty that decals became popular. What are flower patches made of? In ancient times, there were a lot of materials for making flower mother-of-pearls, including ones cut from gold foil, paper, fish scales, and camellia oil cakes. The most interesting thing is that even dragonfly wings can be used to make flower mother-of-pearls! For example, "Yan Yi Lu" written by Tao Gu of the Song Dynasty said: "People in the palace of the Later Tang Dynasty caught dragonflies in nets and loved their green thinness, so they painted their wings with gold pens and made small branches and flower seeds." It can be seen that women in ancient times had not only rich makeup methods, but also And it’s unique and eclectic. The colors of flowers include red, green, yellow, etc. There is a sentence in the familiar "Mulan Ci" that "the mirror is yellow". In addition to the shape of plum blossoms, the flowers also have various shapes of birds, fish, ducks, etc., which are very beautiful and novel.
(2) Lipstick
In ancient times, lipstick was called lipstick and lip gloss. Oral lipstick is red in color, and when applied to the lips, it can increase the brightness of the lips and give people a healthy, youthful and energetic impression, so it has been loved by women since ancient times. The degree of this kind of love can be seen from the "Book of Tang Baiguan Zhi", which records: "On the twelfth lunar month, I offered lip balm, facial lip balm, head balm and clothing sachets to the bachelor of Beimen, and the lip balm was filled with green." "Ivory tube." Here it is written that the carved ivory tube is used to hold lipstick, which shows how precious the lipstick is in many cosmetics!
There are many ways to apply lipstick and make-up. In China, it is customary for a small mouth to be beautiful, that is, "a little cherry mouth". For example, Cen Shen, a poet of the Tang Dynasty, said in "Poetry of a Drunken Lady Dou": "A little red lips" "Peach Blossom Yin"
After the Yuanhe period of the Tang Dynasty, due to the influence of Tubo costumes and makeup, "crying makeup" and "tears makeup" appeared. As the name suggests, the makeup was made to look like crying. It was known as "The makeup of the times". The poet Bai Juyi once described it in detail in the poem "Zhuang of the Times": "The makeup of the times, the makeup of the times, comes from all over the city. It is popular in the world, far and near. There is no vermilion on the cheeks, no powder on the face, and black ointment on the lips. The makeup is muddy, the eyebrows are painted low, the beauty is black and white, and the makeup is similar to crying. "This kind of makeup is not only unattractive, but also gives people a weird feeling, so it quickly became popular.
In the Tang and Song Dynasties, it was also popular to use sandalwood color to decorate lips. Sandalwood color is a light crimson color. Qin Guan, a poet of the Northern Song Dynasty, sang in "Nan Ge Zi": "I rub my orchid shirt and apricot yellow skirt, leaning alone against the jade railing, and touching my sandalwood lips in silence." This color of lipstick is still popular until modern times. Of course, whether it is vermilion or sandalwood, it should be appropriately selected and used according to different personal characteristics and conditions. Never take weird and fashionable colors as beauty.
(3) Fu powder
Fu powder means applying powder on the face. Women in ancient China have been applying powder for a long time, and this has always been the most common way of applying makeup. According to records in the Tang Dynasty, Emperor Ming of the Tang Dynasty rewarded Yang Guifei and his sisters with a sum of up to one million taels of makeup every year! Li Yu, a dramatist in the early Qing Dynasty, had a very unique view on the powder application method. He believed that women at that time applied powder "to a certain extent, and the beautiful people used it to increase their beauty." "The white ones can be whitened again." Adding white to black is to show the blackness." This clearly illustrates the relationship between makeup and aesthetics. What is even more worth pondering is that the ancients also linked makeup methods such as applying powder to moral cultivation, pointing out that beauty should be combined with self-cultivation. For example, Cai Yong of the Eastern Han Dynasty believed: "When you take a photo and wipe your face, you think about the purity of your heart. Think about the harmony of his heart, add powder to think about the freshness of his heart, lighten his hair and think about the smoothness of his heart, use sticks to think about the principles of his heart, put up a bun and think about the righteousness of his heart, and take pictures of his temples. Think about the integrity of your heart." This view is not only insightful, but also has profound implications.
(4) Forehead yellow
Forehead yellow, also called crow yellow, is painted yellow between the foreheads. This method of makeup is no longer used. It originated in the Northern and Southern Dynasties and became popular in the Tang Dynasty. According to "Women's Decoration in Chinese Dynasties", the emergence of this kind of decoration has a certain relationship with the popularity of Buddhism. During the Southern and Northern Dynasties, when Buddhism was at its peak in China, some women were inspired by the gold-painted Buddha statues and painted their foreheads yellow, which gradually became a custom. Emperor Jian Wen of the Southern Dynasty's "Beauty Chapter" said: "Applying yellow can help the moon, and cutting gold can skillfully make stars." The appointment of yellow to effect the moon here refers to the makeup method of yellowing the forehead. When the yellow forehead was popular in the Tang Dynasty, Wen Tingyun recited the line "The yellow forehead is infinite in the sunset mountains" in his poem, and Li Shangyin also wrote: "When Princess Shouyang got married, her eight-character eyebrows held yellow forehead." Niu Sengru of the Tang Dynasty wrote in "Young Mountain" "Strange Records" also specifically records the story of the goddess Zhiqiong who made her forehead yellow. In the Song Dynasty, the yellow forehead was still popular. The poet Peng Ruli sang: "There is a girl who is called Xiniang when she is young, and her temples are painted yellow with pearls falling off." These all reflect the fact that ancient women liked the yellow forehead.
(5) Thrush
Thrush is the most popular and common makeup method in China, which originated during the Warring States Period. Qu Yuan recorded in "Chu Ci·Dazhao": "Pink white and black black, Shi Fangze only." "Dai black" refers to the use of black thrush. During the Han Dynasty, thrushes became more common, and the more they were painted, the better they looked. "Miscellaneous Notes of Xijing" writes: "Sima Xiangru's wife, Wenjun, has eyebrows as beautiful as distant mountains. At that time, people imitated painting distant mountain eyebrows." This means that the eyebrows should be painted long, curved and green, as beautiful as distant mountains. . Later, the use of emerald green eyebrows was developed, and it was also very popular in the court. Yan Jidao of the Song Dynasty described it in his "Six Mods Order": "The appearance of the Cuimei Palace in the late period can be learned from the distant mountains." "The Records of Mizhuangtai" said that "Emperor Wu of the Wei Dynasty ordered the palace people to paint indigo eyebrows, even the eyebrows. The heart is so long, people call it Xian'e makeup." This kind of green eyebrows is popular, but the use of black eyebrows has become a new thing. "Notes on Ancient and Modern China" says that Concubine Yang "made white makeup and black eyebrows." People at the time regarded this as a new makeup method and called it "new makeup." No wonder Xu Ning wrote in her poem: "Once the new makeup is discarded, the six palaces compete to paint black eyebrows."
In the prosperous Tang Dynasty, it was popular to draw eyebrows wide and short, shaped like osmanthus Leaves or moth wings. Yuan Zhen's poem said, "Don't draw long eyebrows or short eyebrows." Li He's poem also said, "New osmanthus is like a moth's eyebrow." In order to make the broad eyebrows look dull, women evenly spread the color at the edge of the eyebrows outwards when drawing their eyebrows, which is called "halved eyebrows". There is another way to draw the eyebrows very thin, which is called "thin eyebrows". Therefore, Bai Juyi said in "The White-haired Man in Shangyang" that "the eyebrows are slender with indigo dots", and also described in "Song of Everlasting Sorrow": "The hibiscus is like a face and willows are like eyebrows." By the time of Emperor Xuanzong of the Tang Dynasty, the forms of eyebrow drawing were even more colorful. There were ten famous eyebrows: Yuanyang eyebrow, hill eyebrow, five eyebrows, three peak eyebrows, pendant bead eyebrows, moon eyebrows, split-tip eyebrows, Hanyan eyebrows, Smoke-smooth eyebrows and dizzy eyebrows. There are so many ways to draw eyebrows alone, which shows the ancient people's deep love for beauty.
2. Ancient makeup tools
(1) Ancient women’s “eyebrow pencil”:
It is said that the style of eyebrow thrush originated in the Warring States Period, and there was no specific Before eyebrow-threading materials were used, women burned willow branches and applied them on their eyebrows (what a weird make-up, but it’s better to be a modern person).
The materials used by ancient women to draw eyebrows changed with the development of the times.
From the literature records, the earliest thrush material was Dai, which is a black mineral, also known as "Shidai".
Before drawing, the Shidai must be ground on a stone inkstone to turn it into powder, and then mixed with water. Stone inkstones with grinding stones were often found in Han tombs, indicating that this cosmetic was already in use in the Han Dynasty.
In addition to Shidai, there are also Tongdai, Qingquetou Dai and Luozi Dai.
Tongdai is a copper-rust-like chemical substance. Green Bird Head Dai is a dark gray thrush material that was introduced from the Western Regions during the Northern and Southern Dynasties. Luozidai is a thrush material for women in the Sui and Tang Dynasties. It was produced in Persia. It is a kind of daisy pieces that have been processed and manufactured into various prescribed shapes. When using it, you only need to dip it in water and do not need to grind it. Because its appearance and production process are similar to the ink ingots used for calligraphy and painting, it is also called "graphite" or "thrush ink".
In the Song Dynasty, thrush ink was more widely used, and women rarely used Shidai anymore.
As for the method of making thrush ink, there are also descriptions in the notes of the Song Dynasty. For example, "Shi Lin Guang Ji" says: "Take a cup of real sesame oil, rub the wick tightly, put the oil cup in the water and burn it. Cover it with a small device, let the smoke condense on it, and then sweep it down. Three days ago, soak a little oil in the smoke, pour it into the smoke and mix it thoroughly. The ink can be used to cut the sesame oil lamp flower. "Good." This kind of smoked thrush material was euphemistically called "thrush collection fragrant round" in the late Song Dynasty and early Yuan Dynasty. After the Yuan Dynasty, all court ladies used brow stones produced in Zhaitang, Mentougou District, western Beijing, for their thrush eyebrows, and this was also the case in the Ming and Qing Dynasties. By the early 1920s, with the spread of Western culture to the east, Chinese women's cosmetics also underwent a series of changes. Eyebrow materials, especially rod-shaped eyebrow pencils and chemically prepared black grease, are still used today because they are easy to use and portable. (2) Fragrant and amiable makeup powder
Chinese women have been using makeup powder since at least the Warring States Period. The oldest makeup powder has two ingredients. One is made from ground rice flour. The word "pin" refers to rice and points; another type of makeup powder is facial fat made by turning white lead into a paste, commonly known as "Hu powder". Because it is made of lead, it is also called "lead flower", and some are also called "lead powder".
Both powders are used to apply on the face to keep the skin smooth and clean.
As for the method of making rice noodles, there are more detailed records in "Essentials for Elevating the People". The most primitive method of making rice noodles is to use a round rice bowl to fill the rice juice and let it settle. Make a white and greasy "powder powder" and then expose it to the sun. The dried powder can be used for makeup. Because this production method is simple, it is widely spread among the people. Until the Tang and Song Dynasties, people still used this method to make rice noodles.
There is also a kind of fragrant powder, which is made from corn. It is similar to the above, except that various spices are added at the end to form fragrant powder. Since corn itself has a certain stickiness, it is not easy to apply it on the face. fall off. Compared with rice noodles, the production process of lead powder is much more complicated. According to early literature, the so-called lead powder actually contains various chemical elements such as lead, tin, aluminum, zinc, etc. It was originally used for women's makeup. The powder has not been dehydrated, so it is mostly in the form of a paste.
Since the Han Dynasty, lead powder has been made into powder or solid form by absorbing moisture. Because of its fine texture, white color and easy preservation, it is deeply loved by women and has replaced rice noodles over time.
In addition to simple rice flour and lead powder, ancient women's makeup powder also had many tricks. For example, during the Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties, palace official Duan Qiaoxiao mixed rice flour and Hu powder with sunflower seed juice to synthesize " Purple Pink”.
In the palace of the Tang Dynasty, "butterfly powder" was made from fine corn.
In the Song Dynasty, there was "Jade Girl Peach Blossom Powder" mixed with gypsum, talc, clam powder, wax fat, shell musk deer and motherwort.
In the Ming Dynasty, there were "pearl powder" extracted from white jasmine kernels and "hosta powder" made from hosta flowers and Hu powder to look like hostas.
In the Qing Dynasty, there were "pearl powder" made from pearls and "stone powder" made from fine stones such as talc.
There are also some famous for their place of origin, such as Zhejiang’s “Hangzhou powder” (also known as official powder); Jingzhou’s “Fanyang powder”; Hebei’s “Ding powder”; Guilin’s “Gui powder” and so on , the color of the powder has also been increased from the original white to a variety of colors, and various precious spices have been mixed in to make it more charming. In the past half century, with the in-depth development of archaeological work, a large number of cosmetic powder objects have been unearthed one after another. Some are contained in exquisite bowls, and some are installed in silk bags. The most distinctive one is the Southern Song Dynasty unearthed from Fuzhou, Fujian. Makeup powder is made into powder blocks of specific shapes, including circles, squares, quadrilaterals, octagons, sunflower petals, etc., and embossed with convex and concave plum blossom, orchid and lotus patterns.
(3) Colorful Rouge
Rouge is a cosmetic commonly used by women in ancient times. There are many ways to write about rouge in ancient books, such as "Yanzhi", "Yanzhi", "Yanzhi" "Xianzhi", "Yanzhi", "Yanzhi", "Yanshi" and so on.
It is a red pigment. There is a saying that the real origin of ancient rouge is Yanzhi Mountain in the Huns. The name "Lanshi" is a reference to the Huns' treatment of palace women. The title originally referred to the head wives of nobles. Because these aristocratic women often used "阏ashi" to decorate their faces, "阏ashi" became their nickname.
It is said that the introduction of rouge to the Central Plains was related to Zhang Qian's mission to the Western Regions. The so-called "rouge" is actually a kind of flower called "red and blue". Its petals contain red and yellow pigments. After the flower blooms, it is picked whole and then placed in a stone bowl with a pestle and hammer repeatedly. After removing the yellow juice, it becomes a bright red pigment.
There are two kinds of rouge for women. One is made of silk cotton dipped in red and blue flower juice, called "Mianyan Branch"; the other is processed into small and thin flower pieces. It's called "Golden Flower Swallow Branch". Both types of rouge can be dried in the shade and can be applied with just a small amount of water.
Around the Northern and Southern Dynasties, people added beef marrow, pig pancreas and other substances to this red pigment to make it a dense and lubricating grease. From this, Yanzhi was written as "rouge" , "fat" has a real meaning. There is a description about Rouge in Chapter 44 of "A Dream of Red Mansions", which is very vivid. This kind of rouge "is not a sheet, but a small white jade box, which contains a box, like rose paste." Baoyu smiled and said: "The ones sold in the shop are not clean and the color is thin. This is the best." Squeeze out the juice from the rouge, purify it, and steam it with floral dew. Just pick a little from a hairpin and apply it on your lips. It is enough. Dissolve it with a little water and apply it on the palm of your hand. "Ping'er's makeup is really bright and sweet,"
In addition to red and blue, the raw materials for making rouge include chrysanthemum, pomegranate, mountain flower and suspensa. Fangmu et al. Chongqing is a kind of crimson dye. Its color is relatively strong and not as bright and transparent as red and blue. In the Han and Wei dynasties, it was often used as a material for Yanzhi. Pomegranate flower is also a kind of red pigment. It was often used to dye women's skirts in the Sui and Tang Dynasties. It was called "pomegranate red skirt" at that time, but it could also be used to make rouge.
Similar to the pomegranate flower is the mountain flower. The mountain flower is a wild plant that can be used as a cosmetic material after being refined and processed. Su Fangmu is also called "sumu wood". Although its color is relatively dull, it has a long history as a dye. It was a major red dye as early as the Wei and Jin Dynasties.
Due to the popularity of rouge, after the Han Dynasty, the number of women wearing red makeup increased day by day, and it lasted for a long time. Judging from a large number of literature records and image data, ancient women often used makeup with makeup. It was rare to use rouge alone to make up the face. The specific methods can be divided into three types:
1. Before applying makeup, Mix rouge with lead powder to turn it into sandalwood - that is, pink, and then apply it directly on the cheeks. Because it has been mixed into one color before applying it, the color is relatively uniform and the color application on the entire face is relatively even. , can give people a sense of solemnity and quietness, so it is mostly used on adult women;
2. Apply white powder first, and then apply rouge. The rouge is often concentrated on the cheeks, so the cheeks are mostly red. The forehead, nose and chin reveal their true color of white powder. There is a saying of "Three Whites" in ancient Chinese traditional painting techniques, which is based on this makeup method (you can actually see Tang Yin's paintings, most of the women in them are like this) Makeup), judging from the image, this makeup style is often used by young people. The term "peach blossom makeup" in history books refers to this makeup style;
3. Apply it on the face first Apply a layer of rouge, then lightly cover it with white powder.
Due to the different degrees of color use, the names are also different. The richer ones are called "wine halo makeup", while the lighter ones are called "feixia makeup".
3. Cosmetics used by ancient harem beauties
Beauty is basically a war of roses.
Let’s talk about the most famous prodigal emperor Sui Yang. He likes to roam around in dragon boats. On each boat there are thousands of beautiful and beautiful Changbai women, holding gold carvings with carved boards in their hands, and they are called "the palace foot girls". One day, Emperor Yang of the Sui Dynasty fell in love with Wu Jiangxian, a female concubine in the palace. He was fascinated by her flexibility and beauty, and wanted to promote her to Jieyu, but he did not expect that she was already married. Emperor Yang of the Sui Dynasty was very disappointed and promoted her to Jieyu. When she holds the bow on the dragon boat, she is called "Mrs. Kongtong". This emperor's hobbies are really wide-ranging and unprincipled. He has no distinction between education and distinction. From his father's concubine, to the lowest-status civilian woman, to the little girl who is still shy, he can take them all, as long as they are beautiful enough. Because Wu Jiangxian painted her eyebrows in the shape of long eyebrows, the beauties in the harem rushed to follow suit and painted long eyebrows. The palace officials distributed five husks of dendrobium, called "moth green", every day. Luozidai is produced in Persia and is worth ten gold each. Emperor Yang of the Sui Dynasty often leaned against the sunshade to look at Wu Jiangxian, and would not leave for a long time. He said: "The ancients said, 'Beauty is like food.' A woman like Jiangxian can really cure hunger diseases." Another beautiful woman who wasted time and money. She is Mrs. Sun, the beloved concubine of Sun He, the descendant of Sun Quan. Sun Hechang held Mrs. Sun on his knees. One night when the moon was bright, he accidentally touched Mrs. Sun's cheek with the jade Ruyi in his hand, causing blood to flow all over her face. Sun He called the imperial doctors and ordered them not to leave any scars. The imperial doctor said that it is easy to stop bleeding, but if it does not leave scars, it must be mixed with white otter marrow, jade shavings and amber shavings and applied frequently to be effective. Sun He then offered a reward all over the world, and those who offered white otter marrow would be rewarded with thousands of gold. An old fisherman on the Fuchun River reported that every year during the fish sacrifice, white otters would fight for their mates. The bones of the dead otters were hidden in stone caves. Although there was no marrow in them, the bones were crushed and mixed with the bones. Mixed with jade powder, it can also remove scars. After hearing this, Sun He ordered the fisherman to salvage some otter bones, mix them with jade chips and amber powder, and make an ointment. As a result, too much expensive amber powder was used. After Mrs. Deng applied it, a red spot was left on her cheek, which made her look even more beautiful. When the concubines in the harem saw this, they all used salvia to put small spots on their cheeks, which became a custom. Who is asking why. Why does Guo Jing love Huang Rong but not Hua Zheng? Why does Chen Jialuo love Princess Xiangxiang but not Huo Qingtong? Why does Yang Guo love Xiao Longnu but not Guo Xiang, Guo Fu, Cheng Ying, Lu Wushuang, Gongsun Lue, and Yeluyan? Just because they are not as beautiful as the former. Angels love beauty, and men also love beauty. Jane Austen wrote about her heroine Catherine in "The Abbey of Norfolk", "What dress she wears at the party and what hairstyle she wears become her biggest concerns." As a woman, who doesn't? The blue chip belongs to you, the red dress belongs to me, my career is with you, and my clothes are with me, the same at all times and in all countries.
4. Ancient cosmetics and makeup techniques
(1) Eye rim makeup
Since ancient times, people have paid great attention to makeup in order to protect the body or modify their appearance. In the primitive period, humans were accustomed to smearing animal fat, oil, clay and loess on their skin to protect themselves from cold, heatstroke and insect bites. At that time, humans lived in vast primeval forests. In order to prevent local diseases, they were also keen on practicing superstitious spells to ward off evil spirits. Whenever people held rituals, they had to make up their eyes and faces.
In ancient Egypt, in order to prevent heat and dry skin, people often applied sesame oil and oily ointments to their skin. In addition, the ancient Egyptians also liked eye rim makeup, which is to draw green, black or blue paint on the upper and lower eyelids. It is said that this is to prevent trachoma, flies (there was a fly in the ancient tropics that can fly into the eyes and lay eggs) and flying insects. Invasion is also to shield from the scorching sun and disinfect. Therefore, when formulating such coating cosmetics, blue-green malachite powder with bactericidal effect is mostly incorporated. Later, people began to pay attention to the color of this type of cosmetics, and they especially liked to use paint prepared with light black manganese dioxide, and some even used green resin.
According to the research and analysis of ancient mummies, it was found that the upper eyelids of ancient people were painted with black pigment, and the lower eyelids were painted with blue-green pigment. The main component of this black pigment is lead sulfide, and the main component of blue-green pigment is lead sulfide. The ingredient is malachite (containing a large amount of copper sulfate).
In the Middle East, women have long had the custom of drawing blue-black eye circles. To this day, in some Islamic countries, people can still occasionally see those eyes through thin veils. Woman with heavy make-up around her eyes. In the ancient Greek era, people first painted their eyelashes with smoke black, and then applied yellow-white natural rubber paste. Women at that time also liked to extract red dye from henna and apply it to their lips and cheeks. (2) Eyebrow and lip makeup
According to records, King Zhou loved to use the solidified flower juice to dye the nails and make up the face of his beloved wife and concubines. Since this kind of cosmetics first originated from the Yan Kingdom, later generations used it to dye their nails and make up their faces. It's called "Yanzhi".
As far back as the Han Dynasty, Chinese women have widely used lipstick. From the lacquerware dressing box unearthed from Han Tomb No. 1 in Mawangdui, Changsha, Changsha more than 2,000 years ago, in addition to hair locks, combs and powder, swallow fat was also found.
Ebrow pencil was also called "Dai" in ancient times and has a long history. According to literature, Zhang Chang, the governor of Kyoto who served Emperor Xuan of the former Han Dynasty, loved to use Dai to draw eyebrows for his wife. In the early days of the Later Han Dynasty, it was popular for women in the Chang'an area to draw "wide eyebrows", using a blue eyebrow pencil at that time. In the Tang Dynasty, it became popular to draw moth whiskers (antennae) on eyebrows.
In the Tang Dynasty, "red makeup", "red face" and "red face" were also popular. This is when women first apply white powder on their face before applying makeup, and then apply red rouge. According to legend, when Concubine Yang went to the harem to say goodbye to her parents, she burst into tears. When she was about to get in the car, the tears on her face froze into thin red ice due to the cold weather! ...In addition, there is an interesting legend. Because of her plump figure, the imperial concubine would be suffocated by the heat and sweat in midsummer. Whenever she wiped her face with her handkerchief, the handkerchief turned red.
The great poet of the Tang Dynasty also wrote the poem "Makeup in the Times". The poem describes the popular practice of women in Chang'an at that time to apply black oil on their lips (called "black paste lip") and white powder on their faces. makeup.
In 601 AD, Korean monks introduced lipstick to Japan, so the fairies in the "Auspicious Fairy Picture" at that time all had lipstick on their lips. However, it was not until the 18th century that Japanese women popularized lipstick makeup. In the early days, in order to make the lipstick thicker, women at that time liked to apply ink on their lips before applying lipstick. (3) Moles and beard makeup
In the late seventeenth century, the makeup technique of moles and beards was popular among women in Paris. The shapes of black moles are divided into star-shaped, crescent-shaped and round. They are usually dotted on the forehead, nose, cheeks and lips. They are also found on the abdomen, belly and hidden places on the inner sides of the legs. The color of moles ranges from black and Red etc.
According to the publicity of a mole spot shop on Saint-Denis Street in Paris in 1692: the meaning of moles varies greatly depending on the location of the mole. For example, a mole on the forehead symbolizes a queen; a mole on both sides of the nostrils indicates shamelessness; a mole on the eye frame indicates passion; a mole on the lips indicates a love for kissing and a woman who is not devoted to love; a mole on the dimples Dotting a mole indicates that the owner is a woman with a cheerful personality. Of course, these meanings are all imagined.
In addition, men at that time were "not to be outdone" and wore beards. This custom once made a noise in the society.
It is said that because King Louis XIII of France liked to grow a beard, men who loved to follow the fashion followed the same example and grew such kingly beards.
What is surprising is that some men even like to apply a thick layer of fragrant hair paste on their beards, making the beards very hard, like iron wire. In addition, there are also fashionable men who like to decorate the ends of their moustaches with colorful false ribbons, and some even use specially made beard covers, which are considered beautiful. It is really strange and jaw-dropping. (4) Perfume and sesame oil craze
Like the ancient Indian era, ancient European and Asian women often used makeup to eliminate sweat and body odor in order to be comfortable and attractive. According to the book "Egyptian Medical Skills", ladies of ancient princes and nobles often used an oil with added aromatic substances as cosmetics. At that time, a simple distillation method had been invented to extract sesame oil, but volatile perfume had not yet been invented. This oil-like sesame oil is added with spices such as musk, ambergris or myrrh, and the essence is also extracted from jasmine, saffron and other petals through distillation. In ancient Greek and Roman times, people had dropped perfume into bathwater and scrubbed their bodies with sponges soaked in the detergent. The ancient Chinese and Japanese loved to use incense. Some women put ambergris or musk on their lower body.
In the 16th century, due to the discovery of the New World by Columbus and others, many newly discovered spices were continuously brought back to Europe, such as cocoa, Peruvian balm and Hualani spices. At that time, people were superstitious that wearing perfume and sesame oil (especially those containing musk and ambergris) could prevent syphilis, so a craze for perfume and sesame oil quickly set off in society. At that time, there was a businessman in Florence, Italy, who shipped imported spices to Paris for sale, and made a fortune as a result. Especially during the Rococo era of the 18th century when King Louis ruled France, the sales volume of spices in society was huge, and even women's foot wash was mixed with perfume. It is said that the noble ladies of the Palace of Versailles at that time also used a so-called "fart-removing perfume", which is quite surprising. Makeup in the Louis XIV Era
At the beginning of the 18th century, French King Louis XIV ruled France. That era was called the Rococo Era. It is said that for the sake of beauty, the king would rather shave off his beautiful chestnut-blond curls, wear an "oval wig", and apply red and white powder on his face. Other princes and nobles in the court also like to put on makeup and wear wigs that reach their shoulders. As for the king's beloved concubines and noble ladies, they put great effort into makeup. They sprinkled perfume on their bodies like water to attract men.
Bath beauty was also a goal pursued by wealthy men and women. The most fashionable bath beauty method at that time was to take a bath with cow's milk and use distilled water of lily, water lily and broad bean flowers, grape juice or lemon juice, etc. Apply lotion and massage the skin to whiten the skin. Because in that era, only the blood of people with white skin was noble.
According to records, the daily beauty schedule of the king’s concubine Madame Montesbon and others at that time stipulated that there should be 2 to 3 hours of makeup time in bed. They used perfume, powder and sesame oil to apply vigorously Body skin, so that the body can maintain a long-lasting elegant fragrance, and then apply a thick layer of white powder on the body.
However, the lipsticks and powders at that time were made with chemicals such as lead, tin, sulfur and mercury. Using such lipsticks and powders with heavy makeup for a long time will harden the skin.
5. Ancient women’s makeup
Nowadays, women all seem to be naturally beautiful. !” (A certain foundation advertisement) Women in the Tang Dynasty also had such vanity that they would apply lead powder or ground rice grains to their faces, regardless of whether they would suffer from chronic lead poisoning or a pink pimple. Applying thick and lubricating grease on such a thick foundation will have the effect of "washing your face with a pot of red mud soup". Wang Jian's "Gong Ci" records that a certain palace maid "returned to the courtyard to wash her face again and poured red mud into the golden flower pot."
The cost of work is so high that many people are reluctant to remove their makeup. The word "sleeping makeup" is often used in Tang poetry, which is what the so-called "the palace maiden who was born in the palace stays in red makeup" refers to. Wen Tingyun said of a resentful woman, "The pistils are as yellow as the mountain, and the makeup is hidden behind the screen window. When we meet Peony, we say goodbye for a while." This means "If you don't come back to see me, I won't take off my makeup!" Think of a woman with heavy makeup who doesn't wash her face for a month. The threat is no less than a hunger strike!
There were two main eyebrow shapes in the Tang Dynasty: the slender "Mo Mei" and the broad "Guang Mei" (broad eyebrow). In the later period of Emperor Xuanzong of the Tang Dynasty, Concubine Yang switched to using black smoke eyebrows. "Once the new makeup is gone, the six palaces compete to paint black smoke eyebrows." The whole country learned from the mother of the country's new beauty method, and as a result, the sales of indigo and charcoal strips in beauty shops were greatly unsold.
Not long after, the palace invented a kind of "blood halo makeup", which is to paint three or four horizontal lines of red and purple on the top and bottom of the shaved eyebrows, and then smear it with your fingers until it disappears. Open, looking bloody. This kind of "blood makeup", which only Faye Wong dares to wear in today's fashion world, became very popular in the Tang Dynasty, forcing those sellers who had accumulated dozens of tons of ink cigarettes to change their careers to become charcoal sellers.
In the Yuanhe period, the makeup was changed again, "no vermilion on the cheeks and no powder on the face. The lips were painted with black paste and looked like mud, and the eyebrows were painted with a low figure. The round hairpin had no temples and a bun shape, and was slanting red. "Don't faint with ocher face makeup." Bai Juyi's "Shishizhuang" became the fashion statement of Yuanhe's popular makeup in a certain summer - face painted with ocher color, black lipstick, eyebrows, and high bun. Nowadays, this kind of "mourning makeup" that even Faye Wong doesn't have the guts to wear has once again become popular all over the country.
The Tibetan people smear their cheeks with ocher-colored clay every day, saying it can ward off evil spirits. And because of the lack of oxygen on the plateau, their lips are always black, which is not because they are painted with "black paste". According to Tibetan literature, after Princess Wencheng arrived in Tibet, she believed that "ocher makeup" was harmful to hygiene and was really a vulgar custom. Therefore, she suggested that Songtsan Gampo order the abolition of this custom. The Tibetan people were even very grateful to Princess Wencheng for doing so. They break the mold. This reflects the self-righteousness and ignorance of today's people. Not only was the "ocher makeup" not eliminated in Tubo, but it became popular from Hezhou under Tubo occupation to Chang'an.
Gansu Linxia Hui Autonomous Prefecture was called "Hezhou" in the Tang Dynasty. During the Anshi Rebellion, Hezhou and the Hexi Corridor were occupied by Tubo, and the Silk Road was cut off. Tubo forced all Tang people to follow their living habits, change their clothes, wear felt fur, open the skirt on the left side, and paint their faces with ocher. After more than a hundred years, the appearance of the Tang people in Hehuang area is no different from that of the Tubo people. Many children learn the Tubo language, and the concept of the Han people has become very weak. Sikong Tu, a poet in the mid-Tang Dynasty, passed by this place and saw that "the Han children were all talking nonsense, but they were cursing the Han people at the top of the city." ("Hehuang You") "Sense")
The Tang Empire regarded the loss of Hezhou to Tibet as a great shame and humiliation. It always thought about regaining Hezhou, but the popular makeup of Tubo turned over to the Tang Dynasty. It was really unexpected.