Stewed ribs with squid.

There should be many names for dried squid. I was born in Cantonese. I remember when I first became an apprentice, my master told me that it was called squid, also called hanging tablets. The local squid is relatively easy to understand, and the word "fresh" corresponding to "local" is a title relative to fresh squid. As for hanging tablets, the Cantonese name in the standard sense, I understand that they are named in the form of airing. "Hanging pieces" are dried with fresh squid, so they are often hung with ropes when they are first dried. This is a very logical name.

Speaking of practice, any kind of dried seafood needs swelling before it is made. For example, abalone, sea cucumber and fish belly, what we want to talk about is dried squid (hereinafter referred to as "native squid").

When I first learned to cook (in the early 1990s), squid was very popular in Cantonese restaurants, but as time went on, the frequency of squid appearing in Cantonese cuisine became less and less, at least except for making soup, probably because there were more and more fresh squid.

But for soup, squid still occupies its own position.

In the era of squid popularity, the general farmers' market or seafood market has a good sales volume, which looks thick, big and full. But if you smell it with your nose, there will be a pungent smell of alkaline water or formalin, which is very unpleasant. This kind of squid raised by merchants is really not as delicious as dried seafood, and its taste is as plain as a washed rag. Maybe my metaphor is not appropriate, but it is basically the case, at least I think so.

I would never buy this squid. I've always suggested that whoever buys dried squid should grow it himself and try not to eat those outside.

When I was an apprentice, the method taught by the master was to swell squid with alkaline water, and Chencun alkaline water (edible alkaline water). At present, it is generally sold in large farmers' markets. This kind of alkaline water is widely used in Cantonese cuisine. Although it is also a food additive, it is allowed as long as it is used in a certain range and proportion. You are like the stuffing of Cantonese-style moon cakes, and you will use some when pickling shrimp, ribs and other ingredients. The purpose is to make the ingredients rise quickly and make the ingredients smoother.

In San Qian, the proportion of squid marinated in alkaline water is about one catty. Soak the squid in warm water first, then put alkaline water in the water (water should not exceed squid) and stay overnight. Take out the squid the next day and rinse it continuously with tap water for at least 30 minutes. Its purpose is to remove the alkaline taste on or on squid.

However, the squid soup does not need to rise, just soak it soft and cut it into thick strips, and cook it with ingredients such as ribs.

Well-developed squid can cook many dishes, such as oil bubble, fried black bean pepper and steamed meat pie. In addition to steamed meat pies, local squid is directly cut into small pieces and mixed with meat stuffing to make jelly. Before cooking, the others should be cut with flower knives, litchi flower knives and wheat ear flower knives, just like fresh squid. I taught fresh squid flower knives in Q&A before. You can search if you are interested, so I don't need to say anything here.

Although there are many ways to make squid dishes, and you can freely mix all kinds of ingredients, I personally think that the best squid dishes are fried with black beans and peppers.

The production method is also very simple. First, expand the squid, and then cut it with a knife. The small ingredients in the wok need to be sliced with onions, ginger and garlic, then with green and red peppers, and cut into corners. Douchi is essential, just use a dozen Yangjiang Douchi.

First, boil a pot of boiling water in a wok, then splash the squid into the water to make squid rolls and take them out. Brush the wok clean, heat it, and pour in the vegetable oil, which is too much. When the oil temperature is 70% hot, pour in the cooked squid, scratch the oil, add the green pepper and pepper together, remove them quickly, and pour out the oil from the wok. Leave the bottom oil in the pot. Add onion, ginger, garlic and lobster sauce, stir-fry a few times, add squid and green pepper, and continue to stir-fry over high heat. Cooking wine, stir-fry a few times, thicken the bowl, soy sauce, sugar, oyster sauce and water starch, and serve.