(1) suture (needle insertion)
It is one of the basic needling methods of traditional hand needling technology in China, which can be divided into long needling and short needling.
Long needles are used to temporarily fix two or more pieces of cloth, etc. When starting the needle, the thread is not knotted, and the needle is transported from right to left, and the needle distance is about 3 cm (as needed). There are also many changes in long needles, such as long before and short after; The front and back sides are short and the middle is long.
Short stitch is the basic stitch for fixing cloth, etc. The needling method is also from right to left, and the needling distance is 2 ~ 4 stitches (generally 2.5 stitches) 1cm.
The long and short needles are a combination of the characteristics of long and short needles, and one needle is long and the other needle is short. Mostly used for temporary sewing cloth, etc.
(2) needle winding
There are two kinds of needles, one is bright needle and the other is dark needle.
It is also called pulling out needles. Also called oblique needle, because the straight needle is shallow and the stitch is oblique. When moving the needle from right to left, the front stitch should be small and neat, and the color of the thread should be similar to that of the fabric, which is mostly used to fix the welt and pocket clip of the clothing.
Dark needle is also called dark needle. There is no stitch on the front, and there is no stitch on the front and back. It is also used for welting clothes.
(3) Reverse needle
Also known as a return stitch. This needling method is to transport a needle (about 0.6 cm) forward first; Then step back a stitch (about 0.3 cm), and so on. Mostly used in vulnerable parts, such as zippers.
(4) reverse crochet
Commonly known as buckle needle, also known as catch needle. First move one stitch forward (stitch is about 0.3m), and then move back one stitch (about 0.9cm). The stitches are a little oblique. Because this stitch is relatively firm, it is often used when sewing and fitting armholes after assembling pants.
(5) triangular needle
Also known as flower tension, commonly known as dog tooth needle. Used for fixing cuffs, trouser legs and trousers of clothes. Move the needle from left to right. There is no needle on the front, and the needles on the back are crossed.
(6) sewing needle
Also known as wrapping needle and locking needle. It is a common needle method to decorate the raw edge of cloth and prevent looseness, and can also be used to stick cloth. First pick the needle horizontally, then pick the needle vertically, and the suture passes under the vertical pick-up needle, and so on and so forth to the required length. There are many kinds of sewing needles.
7) Knitting needles
Used for split, zipper, pocket, etc. of clothes. The stitch length is about 0.6 to 1 cm. Cross stitch 2 or 3 lines first, then insert a vertical line after the line from top to bottom, draw on the set of lines, and repeat to the length of the cross stitch line. Vertical lines should be dense and neat.
(8) willow needle
Folk also known as Yang Shuhua. Mainly used for hem welting in women's coat clips, which can not only fix welting, but also play a certain decorative role. Start the injection from the reverse side, pick out the needle horizontally from the front line and tighten it to the left. Repeat two or three stitches downward at 45 degrees, and then repeat upward at 45 degrees. The stitches on the front side are zigzag from right to left, and then stop at the back side after reaching the required length.
9) Straight needle
This stitch is used to splice clothes, and the seam is flat and thin. Starting from the back of the cloth, the front needle is straight and the back needle is inclined. The needle is transported from bottom to top, and the top and bottom should be aligned.
(10) eight-character needle
Also known as herringbone needle, nano needle and puncture needle. The stitches of oblique needles are about 0.8 cm, the needle pitch is about 1 cm, they are horizontally and vertically aligned, and the front is firmly picked with a silk.
1 1) swing needle
Also known as throwing seam, dazzling seam. It is used to trim the burrs that cannot be wrapped with lock stitch, and the stitch is oblique.
(12) arch needle
The front stitches are thin and short and neatly arranged. Can be used for edge decoration and joint reinforcement.
(13) Pull wire circulation
This is a way to connect the face with the inside of the skirt hem. After the needle is inserted, the thread end is hidden in the cloth, after the needle is taken out, the thread is tied into a ring, and then the wire is sleeved in the ring. Hook the thread with the left hand, tighten it to make the hooked thread form the second loop, and then feed, fix, hook and pull the thread. This cycle is repeated to the required length.
(14) Nail retaining ring
Used for button rings, piercings, etc. Hide the thread in Hubner after the needle is lifted. Sew four or six serifs according to the size of buttons or the thickness of belts. Then draw the coil tightly with a needle, and draw the coil repeatedly until the length of the lining becomes longer. It's best to put the stop knot on the cloth and hide the thread.
Second, hand-sewn knots.
The knotting of hand sewing is mostly used for wiring, needle lifting and needle stopping. There are many methods, which are mainly introduced below.
(1) mosquito knot
This method is used for connection. When the lines used are not long enough, you can lengthen them in this way. One thread is wound in a circle, the other thread passes through it, and then it is entangled, pinched and tied together.
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Let's introduce these kinds of stitches with solid PP:
The sewing path of loop stitch is from right to left, with the front side retreating one stitch to the right and the back side advancing two stitches to the left:
The front stitch of the coil is similar to the plain stitch of the sewing machine, but the reverse is different:
The difference between the half needle and the half needle is that the retraction length is different, and the half needle only retracts 1/2 needle pitch:
The stitch on the front of the half needle is similar to that of a hand-sewn plain needle. This stitch is used when you need to be firm and don't want the stitch to be too exposed, for example, when zipping shell bags and some patchwork packages. You can use 1/4 stitches instead of returning half a stitch. The smaller the stitch distance, the more concealed the stitch.
There is also a stitch called barb, which, as the name implies, means sewing backwards, that is, sewing from left to right.
The stitch before and after the inverted needle is just the opposite of the back needle and the half needle. Similarly, you can also decide the length of the retraction needle pitch according to your own needs:
The following are hidden needle sewing techniques, which can be a general term for some hidden needle sewing methods.
Vertical stitch is also called patch stitch or straight stitch. Different names explain the different uses of vertical needles, which can be used when sewing or sewing edges (such as binding tapes). The vertical needle is very simple. Put the needle at the bottom, and then pass through all the exposed needles at the same time. The position of the needle is as close as possible to the edge of the upper and lower hem, so that the stitches are not too obvious. Moreover, the position of the re-entry needle should be on a vertical line with the position of the previous needle;
Usually, what we mean by hidden stitches also refers to needle alignment. The needle alignment is to insert the needle on the A cloth first, then insert the needle on the B cloth, and then cycle in turn. At some return ports, alignment is usually used to finish the final sewing:
What's the difference between vertical needle and alignment needle? Look at the comparison chart below. Obviously, it is better to hide the needle. Many people like to sew patches with needles, which is more beautiful. But the speed of sewing vertical needles is obviously faster than that of needles.
Trapezoidal needle
This needle can be said to be the return needle in the hidden needle. Sew a big step forward on the lower cloth and a small step backward from the upper cloth. This stitch is used when it is necessary to hide the stitches and ensure firmness.