In terms of clothing style, since the pre-Qin Dynasty, the Huaxia people have generally formed a pattern of wearing tops and lower skirts, and adult men and women wearing buns. The preferences of the king and the style of the court have a great influence on the variation of customs. King Ling of Chu admired the slim waist, and the women in the country imitated it after hearing about it, so that some girls starved to death due to fasting. The unification of politics and culture made this habit even more unabated, and it continued throughout the entire ancient society and became one of the main factors promoting changes in clothing. Traditional clothing styles are composed of two systems, one is ceremonial clothing worn on major ceremonial occasions; the other is general clothing worn in daily life. The former is prosperous and luxurious, while the latter is simple and plain; the daily ordinary clothing of the upper class nobles is more affected by the former, while the ordinary clothing of the common people has changed less. The main purpose of "making rituals and making music" after the establishment of feudal dynasties in successive dynasties was to standardize the former, while also exerting a certain influence on the latter. Although there were regional differences in women's hairstyles during the Warring States Period, in the later period, they basically tended to have their hair tied in a bun behind the head. The most popular hair style for women in the Qin and Han Dynasties was still the hanging bun. Because this hairstyle hangs low to the shoulders and looks as elegant and elegant as a cloud, it is also known as the "hanging cloud bun". Around the end of the Western Han Dynasty, high buns gradually became popular among upper-class aristocratic women. At that time, a nursery rhyme circulated in Chang'an, the capital, said: "The city is so high-end, one foot high in all directions." "Eastern View of Hanji" said that the hair of Empress Ma, Emperor Ming of the Eastern Han Dynasty It is extremely beautiful and can be combed into a "big bun with four rises, but it is still more than enough for hair, with three twists around the bun." It can be seen that in the early Eastern Han Dynasty, high buns were no longer a rare thing. What was valuable was that people only wore their own hair to make high buns. This shows from another perspective that wigs were also quite popular during this period. Another change in women's hairstyles during the Eastern Han Dynasty was the renovation of the hanging bun. During the reign of Emperor Shun of the Han Dynasty, Sun Shou, the wife of his maternal relative Liang Ji, created a new style called "falling horse bun". The bun was slightly tilted to one side, creating an unbalanced look that was refreshing. For a time, aristocratic women in the city followed suit one after another, "wearing makeup like cicadas and thin temples, just like the hanging bun of a fallen horse." This hairstyle added to a woman's charming look and has been passed down to later generations, with various changes. form. For example, in the Wei and Jin Dynasties, there was a "Japanese falling bun" derived from the "falling horse bun". Jin Cui Bao's "Ancient and Modern Notes" says: "There is no author of the fallen horse bun, only the Japanese fell into the bun, which is the shape of a fallen horse." This hairstyle was still popular in the Sui, Tang and Five Dynasties. Judging from the unearthed image data, the way of combing this kind of bun is to always send it to the top, pull a bun in the middle of the head, tilt one side, and then fix it with a hairpin. As people recited at that time: "The Japanese comb their buns low, and Lian Juan sweeps her eyebrows carefully." The Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties from the 3rd century to the 6th century AD were an era full of turmoil and twists and turns, political divisions, and inter-ethnic conflicts. Conflict has led to drastic changes in all aspects of social life. The bohemian habits of the elite class at that time were also reflected in women's decorations. In the early years of the Western Jin Dynasty, "women had their hair tied up, and it was so slow that they could not stand on their own. Their hair was tied to their foreheads and just stuck out of their eyes." On the other hand, because of the Buddha's , the popularity of Taoist thoughts, women's high buns were influenced by the images of fairies and flying gods in religious paintings, and evolved into various styles such as "Spiritual Snake Bun", "Flying Bun", "Pan Heng Bun" and so on. Their common characteristic is that they comb their hair on the top of their heads, comb it into several strands, and then weigh the various styles after talking. During this period, the prevalence of prostitutes also had a great impact on women's decoration. Prior to this, there had long been "camp prostitutes" who "rewarded" victorious soldiers. Since then, their "services" gradually shifted from soldiers to civilians, and reached an unprecedented peak during this period. Prostitutes who specialize in grooming and dressing luxuriously are often advocates and promoters of trendy clothing in order to please others. From then on, the fashion of prostitutes became another dominant force after the palace style in terms of custom change. Perhaps it was the Southern and Northern Dynasties that created a new world for women's decoration. In the Sui and Tang Dynasties, especially in the Tang Dynasty, women's hair styles were more colorful and surpassed those of their predecessors. The Tang Dynasty was the heyday of China's feudal society, with national unity and economic prosperity. If the Sui Dynasty, which died in its second generation, is like a flash in the pan, then the powerful Tang Dynasty is like a blooming peony, with fragrance overflowing and lasting through the ages. The Tang Dynasty advocated healthy beauty. It can be seen from the paintings handed down from the Tang Dynasty that the beauties at that time were all strong, plump and thick-bodied. Therefore, in women's decoration, the decadent trend of previous generations was swept away, and they appeared gorgeous and elegant. Almost all the popular hairstyles in the past have been creatively inherited. The hanging pony bun, the coiled cloud bun, and the towering flying bun were all renovated in the hands of the Tang Dynasty. For example, the "Frightened Crane Bun" that was once popular in the Southern and Northern Dynasties was shaped like a frightened crane with its wings spread out about to fly; in the Tang Dynasty, it changed to the "Frightened Crane Bun", with softer and more natural lines, matching the woman's face, and extremely rich Interesting. An open society has led to an expanded mind. A variety of hairstyles influenced by ethnic minority customs were also popular among women in the Tang Dynasty, such as Wuman bun, Zhiju bun, Huihu bun, etc. People did not think it was strange, but instead imitated them. Poems about this hairstyle abound. Throughout the prosperous Tang Dynasty, high-end buns that towered above the head were always popular. The "e bun" that was popular in the middle and late Tang Dynasty was more than one foot tall. Just as Yuan Zhen sang in "Li Waxing": "The top bun is three feet high." , standing in front of the door to watch the spring breeze." This is the hairstyle worn by noble women in the handed down "Picture of Ladies with Hairpins". The popularity of high buns has made the use of wigs more common.
It is worth mentioning that in addition to wigs made of hair, people in the Tang Dynasty also used a large number of wigs made of wood and paper. This type of wig, called "righteous bun", is actually closer to the category of jewelry. In the Tang Dynasty Tombs in Turpan, Xinjiang, two objects were unearthed: one is wooden, shaped like a "half-upturned bun", coated with black paint, and has some small holes at the bottom for hairpins; the other is It is made of paper, similar in shape to "Ejig", and its exterior is also painted with intricate patterns. The Song Dynasty, which was built on the ruins of the Five Dynasties, was not as strong as the Tang Dynasty in terms of national power, but the prosperity of its culture and material life was comparable to that of the Tang Dynasty. The dominance of cultural taste is not only controlled by a few nobles, but also by the participation of a large number of secular landowners and scholar-bureaucrats, which permeates the social culture with a stronger literati temperament and adds a lot of elegance. Correspondingly, the trend of women's clothing has also changed from luxury to elegance and simplicity, "only clean and not different", and slimness has become the standard of beauty instead of being strong. Women's hairstyles in this period still advocated high buns. Although the styles were not as colorful as those in the Tang Dynasty, they were still quite stylish. The most popular one is the "concentric bun". The combing method is simple. You only need to gather the hair to the top of the head and pull it into a round bun. Later, the "tassel bun" was deduced from the "concentric bun". The basic shape of this hairstyle is similar to the "concentric bun", except that a ribbon is tied at the root of the bun so that it does not hang on the shoulders. In the early years of the Southern Song Dynasty, the "Tongxin bun" was still popular in remote areas. Lu You mentioned in "Entering Shu" that he saw girls in Sichuan "who were dressed in 'Tongxin bun', two feet high, with silver hairpins inserted into their hair." Six branches, with a large ivory comb inserted in the back as big as a hand." But in big cities, the height of law and order has gradually converged. Zhou Hui said in "Qingbo Magazine" that when he was a child, he "saw women's attire change after a few years. It was as if hundreds of years ago, the same pattern had changed." It should be different. For example, the high crown and long comb can still be seen. It was called "big comb and wrapped" at that time and was not used as a gift. If it were given today, it would not necessarily be praised as a novelty, but it was probably not sold by the predecessors. "When building houses, they are all designed to be tall and then gradually become smaller and smaller, and the same goes for jewelry." It can be seen that the trend of high buns has declined after being popular for nearly a thousand years, which has a lot to do with changes in architectural styles. From then on, buns with a height of two or three feet were very rare. Li Yu, who lived in the Ming and Qing Dynasties, severely criticized high buns: "The bun is as high as one foot and the sleeves are full of silk. It is not only unsightly, but also looks like a monster." There is no difference." During the Qingming Dynasty, my country's feudal era entered the late stage. Traditional culture had developed to a very mature level, and its vitality gradually faded. Cultural interests turned to tediousness, accumulation, and excessive pursuit of detail. The external splendor cannot conceal the poverty of creativity. Women's hairstyles in the Ming Dynasty tended to be low and pointed. When the hairstyle reached six or seven inches, it was considered to be a high bun. The style of the bun did not change much, such as peony head, flowerpot head, bowl head, etc., which generally evolved over the decades. It’s a new pattern, but the ornaments on the bun are extremely gorgeous. This is clearly reflected in the "Tianshui Bingshan Record" which records Gao Song's family property. During this period, the fashion of prostitutes had a great influence on women's clothing trends. Since high officials and dignitaries appreciated southern prostitutes, southern characteristics became the mainstream of fashion. For example, the "Du Wei Niang bun" (also known as "fennel bun"), which was popular in the mid-Ming Dynasty, was first created by Du Weiniang, a prostitute, and then spread throughout the country from the south. Even the hair style of the court was inversely influenced by the folk. "It is better to dress in southern style". In the Qing Dynasty, You Dong wrote a poem: "It is said that one foot high in the south of the Yangtze River, the six palaces compete for peony heads." Women in the Ming Dynasty popularly wore headbands and hair crowns, and these two accessories soon became quite decorative. Cruz, a Portuguese Dominican friar who visited China in the late Ming Dynasty, recorded that women “combed their hair well, combed it back, tied it on the top of the head, and tied it properly with a wide ribbon from root to top . The ribbon is surrounded by pearls, jade and gold foil. "In the middle of the 17th century, Satisfied entered the customs and established the national power. The custom of men combing their hair in a bun on top of their head, which had been inherited since the pre-Qin era, was changed to shaving and braiding under the government's administrative orders, while women still maintained the old custom of the pre-Ming Dynasty. This is the so-called "men surrender but women do not surrender". Modern women have tried to comb their hair into a "bun bun", which is a bun style that ends at the back of the head. It generally appeared in the late Qing Dynasty.
In the early years of the Republic of China, with the popularization of hair cutting, women's buns became fashionable in simplicity and neatness. As time went on, fewer and fewer people combed their hair. In remote villages, it did not gradually disappear until the 1950s and 1960s.< /p>