Wu Haitao
I remember that every time after having a drink with my friends, I would go to the noodle restaurant where I often go and have a steaming bowl of Chongqing noodles to "press wine". In the process of chewing slowly, I feel the comfort of satiated food. Looking at the rising spicy gas, I have a bowl of sweet memories.
twelve years ago, the second time I ran a pub, I opened an "authentic Chongqing noodle pub", and the noodle chef I hired was also a pure Sichuanese Xiaoyao. He used handmade noodles to make my pub very popular. Although Chongqing Xiao noodles are not our local specialty, they have been accepted by many diners. A bowl of excellent noodles is full of color, fragrance and taste. Can it be described as "unique" among many pasta dishes?
the reason why I define it like this is reasonable.
a bowl of high-quality Chongqing noodles is never rolled out casually. First, you should choose the best refined flour, which is the most basic raw material for Chongqing noodles. How to mix noodles is also the basic principle to be able to roll out. The method of mixing noodles in Chongqing is different from ordinary mixing noodles. Chongqing Xiao Mian is to spread flour on the chopping board, then beat in an appropriate amount of eggs, add water and salt and mix well. It is best to mix the noodles on the first day, but it is necessary to master the temperature and keep the noodles in a "half dream and half awake" all the time, so that the rolled noodles will be strong. Moreover, a good noodle maker can not only roll out noodles with uniform thickness, but also roll out various shapes such as capillary, wide leaves, leek leaves and so on according to the taste habits of diners.
If the shape of rolled noodles is the essence, then how to cook and prepare noodle soup is the essence of Chongqing Xiao noodles. The authentic noodle soup of Chongqing Xiaomian is made of excellent beef bones for 3 days, and then it will be milky white noodle soup. With all kinds of accessories, the soup is extremely delicious. Add all kinds of pepper, pepper, red oil, etc., and the taste of the soup will be almost perfect, spicy and delicious, and the color will become rosy and shiny. Put the cooked glittering and translucent handmade noodles in the noodle soup, add chopped green onion, coriander powder, a few rape leaves, a few tomatoes, and preferably a few pieces of cooked beef. Finally, pour a little sesame oil, and a bowl of authentic Chongqing noodles with all colors and flavors will be placed in front of you. Coupled with a few side dishes, a few bottles of beer, three or five drinks on the table, I think, this life is enough!
Perhaps in the eyes of many people, Chongqing Noodles with a bowl of several yuan is no longer delicious, but in our time, even the homemade handmade noodles were luxurious and delicious, not to mention that northerners had never seen any "Chongqing Noodles". I clearly remember that the young couple ate noodles in my noodle shop during my opening, and now I think it is a happy thing.
On that day, the light rain didn't stop. A young couple with a small umbrella made it at the table near the window of my noodle restaurant and greeted me with a bowl of noodles. When they came face to face, they smelled and smelled slowly, looked and looked at each other, but they didn't move chopsticks for a long time. I thought something was wrong and rushed over. They smiled at each other and said to me, Boss, look at this face. It's delicious, fragrant, spicy and delicious. It's not a face. It's like a handicraft. Before you enter, you should learn to watch it, and then you should taste it slowly, or you will lose your master's skill.
I smiled knowingly, watching them eating noodles in a bowl from a distance, one by one, one by one, with relish. If we describe their love or marriage, just like that bowl of small noodles, their lives are full of flavor, steaming and long, I don't know if other pasta can also have such an effect or feel this way.
However, I think it's entirely possible to use the word "take sole responsibility" to endorse Chongqing Noodles.
Handmade noodles, the smell of mom
Every time I walk into that street, I hear a voice coming from a small room: Handmade noodles, that's the smell of mom ... I just turn my head to glance at the small room when I pass by, and then, accompanied by this kind "advertising slogan", I go straight on my way in a melodious music. But this time, I really couldn't stand the temptation of that warm voice. I unconsciously walked into the hut, sat down in a corner and ordered a handmade noodle with the taste of "mother".
the cabin is not very big, but it is neatly packed and the windows are clean. The four walls are painted with warm pink wall materials, and eight small dining tables are placed in an orderly and warm manner. The most eye-catching decoration of the shop is a banner plaque above the main hall, which reads in block letters: Chongqing noodle restaurant, and the following line of small print: handmade noodles, the taste of mother.
The owner of the store is a middle-aged aunt who looks kindly and warmly greets the diners who keep coming. When a bowl of handmade noodles is served steaming, there is a special fragrance. Is this the "mother's taste"? Clear noodle soup is neatly packed with noodles with uniform thickness, with green vegetables and egg flowers of red, green and Huang San colors floating on it. Although it is not very delicate, it is still tempting to present color, fragrance, taste and shape in a bowl of noodles. Moreover, a bowl of ordinary handmade noodles in 12 yuan, in my opinion, does not feel much luxury.
this kind of handmade noodles is crystal clear, with good taste, soft and strong, and moderate salinity. Some of the noodles have been improved, and various vegetable juices have been added to produce "green handmade noodles" and "pink handmade noodles" and so on. No matter what color the noodles are, they are all made by hand. This process can't be defined as "backward", it can only be said that it is a kind of recollection. Think back to that time a long time ago, and think back to my mother's handmade noodles.
Maybe 4 years ago. At that time, every family was not very rich. Especially, living in the countryside, you rarely see white flour and rice all year round, let alone mom's handmade noodles. Because my family ate "commodity grain" at that time, so I could get a few kilograms of white flour and rice every month. It is impossible to eat white rice or white flour every day. Only when guests come to our home will the whole family have a meal of white rice or white flour cake, and the most is handmade noodles. Now think about it, that's an extremely extravagant expectation under the conditions at that time. So, at that time, I was looking forward to the guests coming to dinner at home every day, and I was looking forward to my mother cooking handmade noodles again.
Actually, there are not many styles of meals that my mother can cook, but making handmade noodles is definitely my mother's best food. Remember, the handmade noodles made by my mother are still very good. The dough requires moderate water temperature, neither too warm nor too cold, and the dough should be neither soft nor hard. Occasionally, a few eggs or a little salt will be added to the flour. At that time, my favorite was the big rolling pin that was taller than me. I liked watching my mother roll the noodles, and it felt like magic.
A large piece of "awakened" bread was repeatedly pressed by my mother's big rolling pin on the chopping board, and soon it became a piece as thin as "kraft paper". Then, roll it on a rolling pin and fold it layer by layer. I will sprinkle a layer of powder on each layer. My mother's technique is very clever, and the dough is folded evenly. It's just that my flour is scattered thick and thin, but my mother smiled happily and said that I would work.
I also love watching my mother cut the noodles. I don't know what's going on, but if I cut it, I'll get very even noodles. Finally, my mother used a long bamboo chopsticks to pick and shake the noodles, which was very spectacular. Noodles are shaking slightly, flour is falling one after another, and white fog fills the air, which suddenly reminds me of two words: looking at the waterfall hanging in front of Sichuan; Flying down three thousands of feet; It is suspected that the Milky Way has set for nine days.
Although the noodle soup at that time was not as fine as it is now, and there were no vegetables and no auxiliary materials such as steak and shrimp, watching the boiling water roll over the white handmade noodles made me happy to hold a small bowl early and keep turning around the stove. When the thin shredded cabbage is also in the pot, I know it will be cooked. Every time my mother would drop a few drops of sesame oil and put some coriander leaves in my small bowl.
after so many years, just like the advertisement of the handmade noodle restaurant: "Handmade noodles, the smell of mom", it has been lingering in my memory.