The stone relief in Kitchen (partial)
The green glazed pottery oven is now in Shaanxi History Museum
The oven unearthed from Nanyue King's Tomb in the Western Han Dynasty (Guangzhou)
Summer is the season of string-tying. Making an appointment with three or five friends and drinking beer together is a beautiful thing in hot summer. Of course, barbecue is not a patent of modern people. Although there was no word "barbecue" in ancient times, it was referred to as "roasting", in fact, the barbecue ingredients of the ancients were much richer than ours, and the way of eating them was even more colorful. They really ate food.
In the pre-Qin period, there were three ways to eat a roast rabbit meat.
For China people, barbecue is the oldest and youngest cooking method. It is said to be ancient because the history of barbecue started almost from the beginning of human use of fire. Archaeological findings show that in Majiabang cultural site, a waist-eaves pottery kettle and a rectangular horizontal pottery fire grate have been unearthed, which shows that China people began to master the barbecue cooking technology at the latest. And it is young because the word "barbecue" appeared very late, but it is only a hundred years. There is no word "Kao" in ancient Chinese, which was created by the famous painter Qi Baishi. In the early 193s, at the invitation of a barbecue shop, Qi Baishi created the word "roast" according to the method of sound and form. After writing it, he added a line of small characters below: Zhong Ding didn't have this roast word, but Qi Huang (Qi Baishi's name) invented it.
In ancient times, there were three techniques for barbecue, namely, burning, firing and roasting. Burnt, explained in the Book of Rites, "added to the fire to say burnt", that is, directly baked on the fire; Cannon, you need to wrap the ingredients in grass or wet mud first, and then set fire to roast them, similar to the beggar chicken in later generations; Roasting, "running through the fire", can be understood as kebabs in the modern sense.
There is a record of roasting in Mencius with all my heart. Among them, Gong Sunchou asked: Which is more beautiful, roasting or mutton jujube? Preserved meat refers to finely cut meat or fish, and preserved meat refers to barbecue or grilled fish. In ancient times, it was called "never tired of eating fine and fine", which meant that the more refined the grain, the better the meat cut. On the question of Gong Sunchou, Mencius said this: Of course, it is better to be roasted. Then he said: everyone likes to cut and roast meat. It can be seen that barbecue was already at the top of the food chain as early as before the pre-Qin period. As a result, people later called the poems praised everywhere "popular".
There is also a record in the Book of Songs. The Book of Songs says, "If there is a rabbit at the head, it will be burned by the gun. A gentleman's house drinks wine, and a cup of wine is filled with wine. There is a rabbit's head, and it's burnt ... There is a rabbit's head, and it's burnt with a cannon ... "Here, a group of nobles are depicted baking rabbit meat and drinking, and people are particularly particular about eating." One rabbit eats three times ",cooking with three barbecue techniques: cannon, burnt and roasted. The pre-Qin people's love for barbecue is also reflected in the Songs of the South. For example, The Songs of the South Big Move says, "Xi Gui Lai! Choose whatever you want. Roasted quail and old quail. Fry the birds and keep them fresh. " Let's see how "wild" people in Chu ate at that time: roasted crows, steamed wild ducks, scalded quails, fried crucian carp, stewed tits ... What's the smell of roasted crows? It's hard for modern people to imagine!
In the Han Dynasty, charcoal was exquisite, and cicadas could be roasted.
Most of the existing records about the barbecue diet customs in the Han Dynasty are found in stone relief materials. The relief stone of "Kitchen" unearthed from the tomb of the Eastern Han Dynasty in Hanwang Township, Tongshan, Xuzhou, has a man carving meat on the record in the middle of one floor, and a man on the right is grilling kebabs on the stove. He holds kebabs in his left hand and fans the fire in his right hand, and the meat to be roasted and animals to be slaughtered are hung on the left. This picture, this action, is it like seeing it at the barbecue stall at the gate of the community last night?
According to the stone reliefs found, the ovens in the Han Dynasty were generally rectangular or square, and some were round. In 1969, a square copper oven was unearthed in Yanxingmen Village, Xi 'an, Shaanxi Province. The oven was divided into upper and lower floors, with several strip-shaped engraving holes at the bottom and a shallow tray-type four-legged base at the lower floor. The upper layer is used for holding charcoal fire, and the lower layer is used for receiving charcoal ash, which is convenient for cleaning. This is quite similar to the barbecue oven we use now.
Three bronze ovens and their supporting chains, iron brazing rods and iron hairpin were unearthed from the tomb of Nanyue King in the Western Han Dynasty in Guangzhou. They were the barbecue utensils of Zhao Kun, the second generation of Nanyue King. Some of the details are very interesting, which not only reflects the exquisiteness of the design, but also highlights the practicality: first, the four walls of the oven are equipped with bronze handrails with animal heads, which are convenient for lifting and carrying by chains; Secondly, the bottom of the furnace is designed to be slightly concave, which is convenient for placing charcoal fire; The corners of the stove are slightly to prevent the skewers from slipping; There is a square buckle on each wall of the stove, which may be designed for inserting iron brazing and putting grilled kebabs; There are four feet with axle wheels attached to the bottom of the furnace plate. With it, the furnace can move at will. You can make charcoal outdoors first, and then move it directly indoors after running the flue gas. This is convenient and can save the princes and nobles from the suffering of smoking.
The charcoal used for barbecues in the Han Dynasty began to pay attention to its material. Among them, mulberry charcoal is the best. Zhang Jiashan's Han bamboo slips "The Book of the Apostle" recorded a case in which the monarch ate barbecue and got angry and pursued it. The investigator said: I have investigated the barbecue tools, and the charcoal is very good ("mulberry charcoal is beautiful") and the iron stove is also very strong, so that the meat baked in this way will be burnt and crisp, but only the three-inch long hair is not burnt, which is not like the crime of the barbecue person.
next, let's take a look at the most important item of barbecue-ingredients. On the kitchen map of Han Dynasty stone reliefs, not only the scenes of killing cows, sheep and pigs, chickens and dogs are shown, but also the leg meat of different animals such as turtles, fish, geese, birds and rabbits are hung. Traditional "game" such as deer, elk, wild boar, rabbit, wild goose, pheasant, sparrow, crane, etc. Compared with the previous generation, the barbecue ingredients in the Han Dynasty were more wild. Shaanxi History Museum had a green glazed pottery oven with four wingless cicadas strung on two labels along the mouth. People in the Han Dynasty like to catch and eat cicadas, and there are many catching techniques recorded in historical records, such as Yao cicada (a kind of catching cicada, which shines with fire at night, and the cicada throws fire after seeing the light) and sticking cicada.
in the southern and northern dynasties, kebabs became more popular. There are more than 2 kinds of roasting methods in Qi Min Yao Shu written by Jia Sixie in the Northern Wei Dynasty, among which "crossing roasting" is recorded and subdivided: "wrapped with bamboo sticks", which is a small string of bamboo sticks; "Two different clusters are broiled by two clusters", which is an iron tag for a large string.
In the Tang Dynasty,
There were four kinds of barbecues to cure hemorrhoids.
Influenced by the eating customs of Hu people, it was popular in the Sui and Tang Dynasties to eat large pieces of meat and binge on it, such as "cook a sheep, kill a cow, whet the appetite, and make me, of three hundred bowls, one long drink!" by Li Bai. This is contrary to the "Don't cook" in the Book of Rites (don't wolf down the barbecue). Hunyangjiuhu is the most famous dish in the court of Sui Dynasty. According to the article "Imperial Chef" in Volume 234 of Taiping Guangji, this dish is made by removing the hair and five internal organs of a goose, filling it with meat and glutinous rice, and then blending it with various condiments. After that, I got a sheep, peeled it, removed its lungs, put the goose in front of it into the belly of the sheep, sewed it up and roasted it on the ground fire. When the mutton is cooked, peel it off, take out the goose in the belly and hold it in your hand to eat. What a luxury!
When the barbecue arrived in the Tang Dynasty, one word was highlighted-Hao. Camel meat has also been included in the recipes of the Tang Dynasty, and the hump is a rare delicacy. Cen Can, a frontier poet in the Tang Dynasty, is a barbecue gourmet. He mentioned eating camel meat in Jiuquan Taishou Table, "Hun-baked plowing cattle to cook wild camels, and making rivers and wine to return to Luo", and "Youyang Miscellany" also mentioned "General Qu Lianghan, can you? "Roasted hump" has a "western flavor", which is to cut the hump into thin slices and barbecue it with various spicy seasonings.
These dishes are not common in the north, but are more common in places where camels are abundant and Hu Feng is prevalent. As for "stir-frying a cow", it means roasting the whole cow. When the whole cow is roasted, the whole sheep is roasted. There is a "red sheep stick" (which may be the predecessor of modern roast whole sheep) on the menu of the barbecue in the Tang Dynasty, which means to leave the whole sheep with limbs and roast it on the fire to be approximately red, which means "red sheep".
After the mid-Tang Dynasty, this bold and rough diet style gradually became refined. There was a divine dish called "Xiao Ling Shao" in the barbecue industry in the Tang Dynasty. This dish has been lost today, and it is not an exaggeration to say that it is the best barbecue in history. After Princess Tongchang got married, Tang Yizong gave the princess this dish of "XiaoLing Roast" in her dowry. According to later records, this dish of "XiaoLing Roast" is based on the tongue of magpie and the sharp meat of sheep's heart. After extremely complicated technology, it was finally baked. "One sheep's meat, take four or two, and it will never stink after the heat." Only four or two meats on one sheep can be used as this kind of food for a summer.
Barbecue is a weapon to gain weight in modern times, and late-night barbecue stalls are regarded as an unhealthy way of eating, but in the eyes of the Tang Dynasty, some barbecues belong to medicinal diet. A famous doctor in the Tang Dynasty, Qi Yin, recorded a variety of barbecue delicacies such as roasted mandarin ducks, wild boar, eel and fish, puffer fish (starling) and yellow female chicken in "A Heart Guide for Food Doctors". He mentioned in the book that the first four kinds of barbecues can also treat hemorrhoids and complications. For example, "roast wild boar" means roast wild boar. Cut 2 Jin of wild boar, sprinkle with pepper, salt, scallion, etc. to make cooked meat, which can "cure bleeding, edge and abdominal pain caused by hemorrhoids for a long time"; "Roasting mandarin ducks" means roasting mandarin ducks, using one mandarin duck, roasting it very well, then finely cutting it and dipping it in five spicy vinegar to eat it, which can "cure five hemorrhoids and fistula sores".
in song dynasty
mutton was highly respected, and the emperor was greedy in the middle of the night
people in song dynasty inherited the barbecue style of sui and Tang dynasties, and the ingredients became more and more extensive, which was introduced into festival customs. In the Song Dynasty, eating barbecue was one of the contents of the "Warm Hearth Meeting", and Miscellaneous Notes on the Year of the Year also said: "Peking people drink wine in October and roast meat in the stove, sitting around and drinking, which is called a warm heart."
mutton was highly respected in the song dynasty. according to relevant historical records, Song Renzong was the favorite emperor in the song dynasty. "History of the Song Dynasty: A Chronicle of Renzong" said that Emperor Renzong of the Northern Song Dynasty started one morning and said to his courtiers, "I was very hungry because of insomnia last night, thinking about eating and burning sheep." The emperor tossed and turned at night, hungry, and wanted to eat roast mutton. The courtiers asked, "Why don't you order for it?" Injong replied, "I heard that whenever anything rises in the palace recently, it will follow suit outside the palace." I'm afraid that if I eat roast mutton tonight, the servants in general will be ready for the emperor to eat roast mutton every night. Years have passed and countless sheep have been killed. Can you start endless killing for your momentary desire for words? " When Injong finished, everyone around shouted, and some people were moved to tears.
According to the records in Dream of Liang and Dream of Hua in Tokyo, in the court of the Song Dynasty, roasted mutton had the skills of smoking, fire roasting, charcoal roasting and stone cooking, and there were more than twenty kinds of roasting according to the collocation of different ingredients. But to say that one of the more popular is the charcoal barbecue method. Before charcoal simmering, you should first dig a hole in the ground, then put an iron pot in the hole, and then put the whole sheep covered with seasoning into it. The mouth of the pot needs to be sealed with soil, just like a beggar chicken. Hu Quan's account of the banquet in Longxing Guiwei in the Song Dynasty mentioned: eating two flavors of pepper vinegar, real pearl powder from sheep's head and fried rice with kang sheep. Shang (referring to Song Xiaozong, Hu Quan is a lecturer in Song Xiaozong) said to Yu: "Kang sheep are very beautiful."
The "very beautiful" roast sheep can only appear in the cases of the nobles in the palace in the Song Dynasty. It is not easy for ordinary people to have a bite, but it is said that food is deeper than food, and there are many delicious barbecues in street snacks. As we all know, there has been a prosperous night market life in the Song Dynasty. In The Dream of Tokyo, a veteran of the Song Dynasty, Meng recorded in detail the richness of food in the night market in the Song Dynasty. Among them, there is a popular food in the winter night market, which is called "spinning pork skin", that is, the pork skin is roasted on a charcoal fire, and a trace of meat is hung on the pork skin, which can not only taste the delicious barbecue, but also chew the oil of the pork skin, so that the chewy pork skin will not taste too much.
during the Ming and Qing dynasties, barbecue food became more popular. At the end of the Qing Dynasty, there was also the saying that "Man Han Da Xi" was the common name of "Barbecue Xi". In modern times, the word "barbecue" began to appear, and this way of eating, which lasted for thousands of years and went deep into the dietary genes of China people, continued to occupy an important position on the dining table.
Text/Photo courtesy of our reporter Chen Pin/Xiaoxiao
The above is related to the complete collection of names of fire of life shops in the furnace, and it is about sharing barbecue. After reading fire of life's nickname of WeChat in the furnace, I hope this will help everyone!